Anyone change an intake manifold gasket on a Vortec 350?

[BP]

Pull the distributor cap, rotate the engine until the rotor points at the #1 cylinder. Also pull the #1 plug and make sure it's on the compression stroke. Once you have it close look at the balancer/timing indicator and turn it to 0 degrees. Then take a crayon or a scribe, whatever you have and mark the base of the distributor and intake manifold. You have to get it +/- 2 degrees of zero or you'll get a crank angle sensor code. Don't use too much RTV and don't overtorque the bolts and all should be good. I'd change out the quick connect fitting for the heater hose while there as well.

Oh yeah make sure the a/c compressor doesn't get pushed into the radiator, it'll definitely poke a hole in it.

[ram57ta]

And just for shits and giggles, my instructional.

I'm curious why you removed the upper intake plenum? Once I got the distributor out and disconnected the fuel lines at the rear I just pulled the whole intake assembly out as one piece.

[whitetrash]

I'm curious why you removed the upper intake plenum? Once I got the distributor out and disconnected the fuel lines at the rear I just pulled the whole intake assembly out as one piece.

he stated above it was just for instructional purposes

[JC316]

I'm curious why you removed the upper intake plenum? Once I got the distributor out and disconnected the fuel lines at the rear I just pulled the whole intake assembly out as one piece.

More room to work and to show people how to do it. That spider injector is known for failing, especially on the 4.3L engines and it's confusing on how to remove it.

he stated above it was just for instructional purposes

That too.

[ram57ta]

More room to work and to show people how to do it. That spider injector is known for failing, especially on the 4.3L engines and it's confusing on how to remove it.

That too.

Gotcha. I know the new gasket set comes with a gasket for the plenum...but I don't really see a reason to change mine if its not leaking.

[JC316]

Had delays, but I got mine fixed. Had to change the heater hose adapter that threads into the intake and sheared it off, leaving the threaded portion still in the intake. Don't ever let that happen, took me the better part of a hour to chisel it out of there.

[ram57ta]

Had delays, but I got mine fixed. Had to change the heater hose adapter that threads into the intake and sheared it off, leaving the threaded portion still in the intake. Don't ever let that happen, took me the better part of a hour to chisel it out of there.

I've heard that those ports are a headache...so far I think I got lucky because mine worked as designed and the hose disconnected easily, but it could be because I am anal about keeping my engines clean and in good condition (we'll see when I put it back together). Just picked up the gasket set so I'm about to go start wrenching. Wish me luck.

[JC316]

I've heard that those ports are a headache...so far I think I got lucky because mine worked as designed and the hose disconnected easily, but it could be because I am anal about keeping my engines clean and in good condition (we'll see when I put it back together). Just picked up the gasket set so I'm about to go start wrenching. Wish me luck.

Reassembly is easy. Hardest part is getting the distributor in.

[shumpertdavid]

Had delays, but I got mine fixed. Had to change the heater hose adapter that threads into the intake and sheared it off, leaving the threaded portion still in the intake. Don't ever let that happen, took me the better part of a hour to chisel it out of there.

LOL on never letting that happen. I've had them break off from literally just touching them. They make a nice little tool that you drive down into the broken portion, it has teeth like a spline drive, and then using a wrench or socket and ratchet to back them out. I made the mistake a couple times when I first got the tool of not driving it as far as possible, in which case it more or less just reamed the hole when it spun. Prior to that or on really bad ones I still have to break them up with a chisel and then chase the threads with a tap.

OP, I'd recommend changing it while you have the intake out, it's a common leaking point. The replacements are generally made from steel, or if yours is steel now you may be fine. The seal or orings internally can age and cause a leak also.

here's a dorman tool from oreilly's, similar to what I have

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR6/800408.oap?ck=Search_heater+connector+removal_-1_-1&keyword=heater+connector+removal

and the lisle tool I use

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIS0/62200.oap?ck=Search_62200_-1_-1&keyword=62200

[JC316]

LOL on never letting that happen. I've had them break off from literally just touching them. They make a nice little tool that you drive down into the broken portion, it has teeth like a spline drive, and then using a wrench or socket and ratchet to back them out. I made the mistake a couple times when I first got the tool of not driving it as far as possible, in which case it more or less just reamed the hole when it spun. Prior to that or on really bad ones I still have to break them up with a chisel and then chase the threads with a tap.

OP, I'd recommend changing it while you have the intake out, it's a common leaking point. The replacements are generally made from steel, or if yours is steel now you may be fine. The seal or orings internally can age and cause a leak also.
here's a dorman tool from oreilly's, similar to what I have

Nice info on that tool, will have to pick one up for future use. I have easy outs, but none of them were big enough. I don't think it would have helped in this situation though. I got a screwdriver wedged in there and used a pair of channel locks to try and break it loose, but it just kept shaving the metal down.

[dee]

I use a air saw to cut two or three small cuts from the broken hose connection then just pull the pieces out with needle nose pliers.

[shumpertdavid]

i've tried the saw method, breaking them up with a chisel and digging with a pick, and bought that tool the first time I ever saw it. They are like 10 bucks and well worth it. It sits in the drawer with all my pipe taps. It has a lot more surface contact than the screwdriver would, I've only had a couple really stubborn ones it wouldn't remove. they also sell a kit with the remover, a reamer (i assume for stubborn ones), and the tap but I couldn't find a link for it.

[ram57ta]

Its all back together and runs like a champ. Autozone closed before I could make it up there to get a new thermostat (the rubber gasket cracked and leaks a bit but it holds long enough to warm up the truck and get the heater working nicely) so I filled it with water only to verify everything is good before I waste 15 bucks worth of Dexcool. The heater hose quick disconnect worked perfectly and doesn't leak...so I'ma leave it be. Thanks for the tips.

[shumpertdavid]

I avoid dexcool, I use Global Antifreeze, it's a yellow color usually and mixes with anything. Dexcool has a bad history of turning to a brown greasy nastiness.