Feels like I'm asking permission to cheat, but anyone know a good boat forum?

[barronj]

Thanks for all the replies.

[Captain Crawfish]

definately needs to be up to 180 operating temp. it wont run worth a shit at 120 mine doesnt until it warms up

[barronj]

Would you believe that they put 140* & 160* thermostats in these motors? I just called the service department at Indmar (engine MFR), and they said it should run cool right now, and that my engine likely has a 160 thermostat in it, but they've also used 140 degree thermostats.

I'm pretty sure that a cold running motor wears out (rings, cylinder wear) faster though.

[shumpertdavid]

See my previous post about the 140 degree thermostat, sounds crazy compared to what we are used to in the automotive world, but that's what the manufacturers specify.

[barronj]

I totally glossed over that.

[Treybiz]

Did you just buy it??

Saw it on CL a while back. Good looking boat. Along the lines of what I am looking for.

[barronj]

Yep.

[Treybiz]

Yep.

Solid purchase. Mid 90s M/C are some of the best out there.

Had a 95 Prostar 190 in college and want to get into a late 90s/ early 00s 205 or similar next winter.

Edit: If you pull it to the ramp with your Bronco you are living two of my adult dreams.

Nice driver EB or K5 Blazer to pull my Mastercraft to the lake on nice days.

[barronj]

Pulling a 20', 2900# boat/trailer with an 18', 4200# SWB bronco is not my idea of fun
Going from S. Austin to the 360 Bridge is all about hills, and quite a few bumps. It pushes & pulls the Tahoe bad enough, can't imagine trying to stunt in the mall crawler


It was a little warmer today, and the boat did run better. Still need to tune it a little leaner though...

[jyro]

I find it hard to believe

you guys can figure out EFI but can't adjust a holley acellerator pump or set 2 idle mixture screws.

[jyro]

tech archives on the old site, (I wrote it)

curing the dreaded Holley off idle bog
You really need to pickup a book on Holley tuning. That being said, take the Holley off and flip it over, at the butterfly bores you will find a small hole and a slot, the idle air setting on the butterfly’s should be at the beginning of the slot, not the end of it. Cams with lots of duration require more air than lots of carbs are designed to flow at idle. That's why small holes are sometimes drilled into the butterfly’s, to let in more air so you can close up the butterfly’s with the idle screw and close off some of the idle transfer slot. This slot feeds fuel to the motor when the butterfly’s open to get the motor past idle into the venturi's flowing fuel. If you have used up most of the slot just to get idle, it has nothing left to use to get the main system, (the venturi) flowing fuel. The Holley tuning book shows all of this and, for a racer is required basic knowledge.
The idle mixture screws should be adjusted to 1 1/2 turns out.
These screws add a varying amount of air to a fixed amount of fuel. The idle fuel jets are drilled into the metering block. It's hard to tell rich form lean sometimes but on a holley but this is easy because they put the accelerator pump so easy to get to, with the motor running at idle, just pump the squrter some and listen to the motor, if the idle is correct, the rpm won't change, if it's lean, it will speed up, if rich, it will try to stumble.
Sometimes, after you have drill holes in the butterfly’s, you may have to richen the idle feed jets, these are a drilled pressed in jet in the metering block, a finger miniature drill and a drill index that goes from 60 - 80 on drill sizes is perfect. You have to drill a tiny amount and test till the mixture screws are 1 1/2 out and the idle is slightly rich.
The correct fuel level on a Holley is with the fuel at the bottom of the threads of the level check screw hole, not coming out the hole. The most fuel pressure the Holley is designed for is 7.5 lbs.
Some will hold more but not reliably.
The correct setting of the accelerator pumps is done at the screw and nut with a spring on it at the end of the arm. At idle the arm should have no slack in it so that when you give the throttle gas, it makes the squrter pump gas out with no delay.
Squirter tuning is MUCH harder. It sometimes requires a plastic cam set and an assortment of Holley squrters. If you have done or checked all the above things and the carb still bogs some , then you have to fine tune the squrters. For me this is trial and error, when the motor bogs, it can be either too rich, or too lean, I change the squrter and see if the problem is better or worse, an example of this would be having a #25 squrter and a bog and going to a #30 and the bog got less, this would mean that it was too lean with a 25 and the larger 30 helped it. Keep going larger till the bog is gone. I have to change squrters for winter or summer because the air temp is so different. Colder is denser air and you may have to richen.
I hope this helps someone. let me know if you have easier ways to do all these things. Besides EFI.

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[jyro]

http://forums.iboats.com

[shumpertdavid]

Nice write up jyro, at whatever point I ever manage to get my new setup assembled and into my buick, I'll likely need that info.

[barronj]

you guys can figure out EFI but can't adjust a holley acellerator pump or set 2 idle mixture screws.

tech archives on the old site, (I wrote it)

curing the dreaded Holley off idle bog-

I'll go through that. When I set the idle mixture screws, I started by putting them all the way in, then one full turn out, and started the engine. Let it run for about 5 minutes. It pulled 15" of vacuum (the highest) with them turned in just slightly over the starting point of a full turn out. The accelerator pump must be at zero lash, b/c it moves when the throttle moves.

Before my bronco, I didn't know squat about carbs. I had an Edelbrock that I'd changed the step up springs & needles on, and then I bought the 650 street demon that's currently on it, and got it dialed in. My grasp of carb fundamentals has improved drastically, but I have a lot to learn.

[jyro]

look and see

The accelerator pump must be at zero lash, b/c it moves when the throttle moves.

if it squrts fuel out the pump nozzles when it moves, just because it moves, doesn't mean it's pumping fuel yet. with it idling, use your finger to make the pump squrit fuel and see what the engine does, stumble, too rich idle, speed up, too lean idle. you also must make sure fuel isn't dripping out the venturi at idle. this indicates the idle speed screw is too far open.