2.3L Issues

[01svtboy]

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Ford-Ranger-Explorer-Mountaineer-1991-1999/VACUUM-DIAGRAMS/VACUUM-DIAGRAMS/_/P-0996b43f802c548e

[01svtboy]

double check the wires/firing order

[BttleFedC10]

Ive check those so many times. But its been since last summer since i fucked with this thing. {Ill check it again today after work and report.

[BttleFedC10]

Ahhhhh, dammit!

It's been so long since I worked on pre OBDII (no offense) that I just automatically think of things in OBDII...

Well Check the codes for OBDI and give me your thoughts! Lol
I know what the codes mean. Just need som e help on how to fix them. Lol

[00pooterSS]

Well Check the codes for OBDI and give me your thoughts! Lol
I know what the codes mean. Just need som e help on how to fix them. Lol

Post up the code definitions and I'll see if I can help.

[BttleFedC10]

Well after driving it an getting stuck in the field behind us. I finally got it out and it got a lil too hott. So now it's throwing a 116, 172 means hego sensor fault/lean, 211, and a 542. Suggestions? And I'll look for vacuum leaks. But I tried to find a diagram with no luck.


Sent from my Gameboy

172 - Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control

211 - Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing - Ignition Systems

542 - Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

Thats what it was throwing yesterday when i got it a lil 2 hot.

I let it run for a few minutes today and now im only getting this code..

336 - PFE sensor signal is/was was high - ">PFE

I do not understand this diagram? lol

[00pooterSS]

After a little reading up on the codes it sounds like you might have a crank sensor, coil, or ignition control module going bad. That will cause an ignition timing issue and cause popping in the intake. Sorry, it's been so long since I have worked on those trucks I have forgotten damn near everything about diagnosing those old EEC systems.

Here are your codes and definitions and some of my thoughts for what it's worth.

116 - ECT out of range (clear computer and recheck for this, if it comes back replace the coolant temp SENSOR, not sender, the sender is for the guage the sensor is for the computer. I can't remember, but I think your truck will have a sensor and sender, senders are single wire, sensors are 2 sometimes 3 wire)

157 - MAF signal low or grounded (clear computer and recheck for this, you disconnected the MAF, that may have caused this)

172 - 02 sensor not switching, is or was lean (check for vacuum leaks on anything past the MAF, including the air duct between the MAF and engine. check fuel filter and check fuel pressure, may have a bad 02 sensor if everything else is okay, you can hook a volt meter)

211 - Ignition PIP signal erratic or missing (crank sensor?)

218 - IDM signal open or high or left coil pack failure (self explanatory, sounds like a bad coil, but if the coil recieves a bad signal it will act up, so I am concerned with the pick up sensors, cam and/or crank, whatever you have) open and read the link below, lots of good stuff pertaining to the ignition

http://www.justanswer.com/car/0i3nf-cam-sensor-location-1994-ford-2-3l.html

542 - Fuel pump open, bad ground, or always on (? clear codes and recheck)




Hope that helps some.

[00pooterSS]

I was posting at the same time you were.

Those DPFE or PFE sensors go bad all the damn time. What I do is usually watch it in the data stream and hook a vacuum hose to the EGR valve and see if the voltage increases as I apply vacuum. If not the DPFE is bad (unless of course there is a issue with wiring or the hoses going to the DPFE)


Try this for your EGR, hook a vacuum line to it with engine running. Apply vacuum with a pump or your mouth, if the engine starts chugging and running like shit and then runs better when you remove vacuum then the valve is opening and closing and isn't an issue. Also you can leave the EGR vacuum line off for now if you want to. Just hook it back up later after you have figured out the other problems.

[00pooterSS]

I just watched your video, that thing runs like shit no matter what you do to the plug wires. I could also hear that coil, it is hitting hard on every terminal, that's good.

Check the EGR, if it's stuck open it will run like shit, but the popping... I would quadruple check that firing order, could also be why it is running bad.

Good luck, I have to run.. I'll check back to see if I can further confuse you

[BttleFedC10]

Haha, I checked the firing order and its all right. Now should matter if the front coil goes to the left side or right? same with the rear coil. or shouldn't it matter?

[BttleFedC10]

So i checked the egr valve. And its working. Started it up and as i had the idle up i asked my cousin to unplug the maf and it seemed to rev alot more freely but it did not wanna idle for shit.

Checked the codes after that. and it threw these...

157 - Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded - MAF

158 - MAF sensor is/was high or short to power - MAF

336 - PFE sensor signal is/was was high - ">PFE

[jw33]

Does it still have a motorcraft TFI or has someone put some cheap ass Wells junk from autozone?

[jyro]

burn it

[01svtboy]

Check if the egr is getting vacuum at idle, i just worked on an exploree where the egr solenoid wpuld get stuck open and cause rough idle .

[00pooterSS]

Haha, I checked the firing order and its all right. Now should matter if the front coil goes to the left side or right? same with the rear coil. or shouldn't it matter?

Not sure if serious....


I can't say with 100% certainty that it matters, never wired one backwards like that, but I would say it with about 99%... at least.. that it completely matters..