Race Suspension ?s.

[slownbmta]

28in tire ! Grubbs scaled the car a year or two ago. It has a wolfe anti roll bar installed. I was asking about the stock sway bar that bolts to the bottom of the rear end, which is what I thought Clifton was talking about.

Up front is a QA1 kmember, 150/14 springs on 90/10s

LF 849 RF 870
LR 632 RR 624

total 2975

cross 1502 50.4%
left 1480 49.7
rear 1255 42.1

I dont know what that shit means in relationship to how it should be setup. They set it at 6 degrees of pinion angle measured from the flat on the rear end cover.

Well......I don't know either

I would give Wolfe a call and tell him all the specs and see what rates they recommend for a radial and go from there. (or slick if that's what you want)

[DriveWayBuilt]

I dont know what that shit means in relationship to how it should be setup. They set it at 6 degrees of pinion angle measured from the flat on the rear end cover.

that might be you're problem, Let Kyle At Donihoos speed shop set it for you, He's a bad ass when it comes to that.

[bigminz]

For pinion angle you'll want to subtract the angle of the drive shaft from the pinion flange angle. (i think i said that right)

With solid stuff in the back you should be around - 1 1/2.

That's not how you do it.

Setting up a suspension is an art. Like I said before you ask on a forum you will have all the "experts" come out.

[Big Thumper]

The track you go to also can make a big difference when on DR. My TA spun at K-dale, I was thinking it needed some adjusting, but left it alone. Went to Denton, it went a 5.52 with the same tune. 60' a 1.28.

Tires also. Buy new ones, not someone else's used up stuff. If you're not making alot of power, this probably isn't as critical.

Power management, alot of getting off the line is how you are bringing your power in. I can remember when I first got my coupe running, it was spinning after the 60'. After 3 passes of this, I crammed more power into it and it took off. I wasn't keeping the suspension loaded.

I'm a firm believer in the once you have your car setup, you shouldn't have to mess with it alot....power management is how you make it go.

Those are my random thoughts on suspension.

[Baron Von Crowder]

I got 1.3x's out of a stock 5.0, 4cyl springs on the front, v8 rears, a T3550, 4.11's and 28" slicks. Good rubber bushings up top, poly lowers, and good rear shocks.

[racrguy]

28in tire ! Grubbs scaled the car a year or two ago. It has a wolfe anti roll bar installed. I was asking about the stock sway bar that bolts to the bottom of the rear end, which is what I thought Clifton was talking about.

Up front is a QA1 kmember, 150/14 springs on 90/10s

LF 849 RF 870
LR 632 RR 624

total 2975

cross 1502 50.4%
left 1480 49.7
rear 1255 42.1

I dont know what that shit means in relationship to how it should be setup. They set it at 6 degrees of pinion angle measured from the flat on the rear end cover.

Do you know what each of those numbers means?

[Slow Five-O]

That's not how you do it.

Setting up a suspension is an art. Like I said before you ask on a forum you will have all the "experts" come out.

How do you do it?

[Exile]

I'll be running a 31 spline spool.

Soooooo. Do you have another daily that's readily available for you to drive on a regular basis, or are you modding your only vehicle?

My only car, but I have other means of transportation.

Have you ever drove a car with a spool on the streets? Its really no fun at all! I have been driving my car (91' hatch) with a spool & 4:10 gears as my daily driver for about the last 6-8 months now, and it has been total hell! A spool kills your turning radius to where you cant make tight turns for shit (forget about u-turns), tires chirp like crazy around every turn, rear end/spool clinks/pops like crazy around corners, and was just a total annoying hassle to drive on the streets...

When I first had the idea of putting a spool in my car I didnt think driving with a spool on the streets would be that bad, but now I see why everyone says that spools arnt meant to drive on the streets. I learned the hard way...

I now just got finished rebuilding my rear end, and though it might not be considered a "full race suspension", I am loving it!

UPR Caster/Camber Plates
UPR Subfram Connectors
UPR Upper & Lower Control Arms
Tokico Blue Shocks
Cobra Sway Bar
Moser 31 Spline Axles
Ford Racing Cobra 31 Spline Diff
Ford Racing 3:73 Gears
Ford Racing "C" Springs (no isolators)
26x11.5x15 MT Slick (no quads, fenders rolled, no problems/rubbing)

[crapstang]

A spool kills your turning radius to where you cant make tight turns for shit (forget about u-turns)

Mike is an outlaw.

[91CoupeMike]

If I can't make a u turn, I put it in second and drop the clutch. Let it ride about 2,000 rpm and just snap the throttle once and it'll whip around pretty good. Id say that it effectively decreases my turning radius.

I got the spool for $30. So why not? Swapping diffs can be done in a little over an hour if you're not to busy drooling on yourself.. If I don't like it, I'll swap it back out.

LSDs are just so damn heavy...

[bigminz]

How do you do it?

For what is being discussed here that will actually work. I was just trying to show that there are more ways to skin a cat. It used to be on Wolfe's site like that.

We do it differently but I'm also speaking of altered motor locations and extreme ride height changes.

It's not necessarily the parts but the setup that is critical.

[Txstang1]

Do you know what each of those numbers means?

no

Have you ever drove a car with a spool on the streets? Its really no fun at all! I have been driving my car (91' hatch) with a spool & 4:10 gears as my daily driver for about the last 6-8 months now, and it has been total hell! A spool kills your turning radius to where you cant make tight turns for shit (forget about u-turns), tires chirp like crazy around every turn, rear end/spool clinks/pops like crazy around corners, and was just a total annoying hassle to drive on the streets...

When I first had the idea of putting a spool in my car I didnt think driving with a spool on the streets would be that bad, but now I see why everyone says that spools arnt meant to drive on the streets. I learned the hard way...

I now just got finished rebuilding my rear end, and though it might not be considered a "full race suspension", I am loving it!

UPR Caster/Camber Plates
UPR Subfram Connectors
UPR Upper & Lower Control Arms
Tokico Blue Shocks
Cobra Sway Bar
Moser 31 Spline Axles
Ford Racing Cobra 31 Spline Diff
Ford Racing 3:73 Gears
Ford Racing "C" Springs (no isolators)
26x11.5x15 MT Slick (no quads, fenders rolled, no problems/rubbing)

I just pulled the spool out of mine and put a posi back in it. Wears out tires and is a pain in the ass on the street. Dont even think about driving with slicks on the street.

[Slow Five-O]

For what is being discussed here that will actually work. I was just trying to show that there are more ways to skin a cat. It used to be on Wolfe's site like that.

We do it differently but I'm also speaking of altered motor locations and extreme ride height changes.

It's not necessarily the parts but the setup that is critical.

His car is just a street car mustang with the little suspension he mentioned. Not a koth car.


Steve if your cars pinion angle is at 6 degrees you'll want to get that changed.

[Slow Five-O]

Btw just pulled the spool out of my yellow car and put a Detroit the trac in as well.

[Txstang1]

Steve if your cars pinion angle is at 6 degrees you'll want to get that changed.

I thought that sounded like too much. I guess I got fucked out of $250