Wiring help... Battery relocation...

[dee]

will it sut off ? Thats the purpose of the disconnect, to stop all electrican function.

Why wouldn't it? He has the main starter wire on the cutoff instead of the battery.

Edit: One reason I like using ground cutoff switches is you can run everything just like you normally would just kill the ground right off the battery. Simple and very effective.

[Baba Ganoush]

will it sut off ? Thats the purpose of the disconnect, to stop all electrican function.

It works, shuts off my MSD. (I had to go test it lol)

Honestly my cutoff switch was so I could remote mount my battery and have a way to kill power during my wiring process without messing with pulling the cables on and off. I never could find a dual post thingy to allow me to have a 12+ post anywhere. The shutoff purpose was practically useless since its a garage queen anyway....

I will go ahead and move the alt wire over though, glad you pointed that out.

[jyro]

because

Why wouldn't it? He has the main starter wire on the cutoff instead of the battery.

Edit: One reason I like using ground cutoff switches is you can run everything just like you normally would just kill the ground right off the battery. Simple and very effective.

you can completely remove a battery in a running car, it won't shut off, don't try it in a newer car, it may burn up stuff.

The alternator is producing voltage, it's connected where the disconnect isn't shutting off voltage from the alternator, the alternator continues to self excite till it quits turning and it supplys voltage to the ignition. That's why the alternator should always be connected to the battery. Why is this so hard to understand?

I suppose the confusion enters when there are 2 different purposes for the disconnect switch, one would be to work on the car without pulling a battery cable, the NHRA rear battery rule is to enable a track worker to shut down a car after a wreck.
In that case, the motor is running, in tech at a track like Ennis, the teck guys will sometimes check your disconnect switch by having the car running and hitting the switch to off, a few don't pass when the car keeps running because of the alternator wire being on the wrong side of the switch.

[turbostang]

Is this right? I'm just confused on the 3g alternator and the mini-starter... their wiring is different than stock.

I color coded it by wire size...

I'd use 1/0 from the battery to the ground and from the battery to the switch and starter sol.
your showing 4 gauge, why use 1/0 from the sol to the starter if you feed it with 4 gauge? I would use more wire size to the power block too, a msd has 10 gauge power leads.

I didnt' read all the other quotes in depth, but this is pretty much all you need. Use the same 1/0 from the solenoid to the starter, and from the battery to the solenoid. The alternator charge wire has to go on the battery or the cutoff at the very least, or it will not kill the car. FYI, your fan power is the same way - it can back feed and keep a car running, or more importantly a fuel pump energized. The fan's relay should be powered from a cable running directly to the battery.

As Jyro stated, the purpose of the cut off (for NHRA) is to kill a running car completely in the event of an accident. It makes perfect sense, even if you are NOT trying to satisfy the NHRA requirements.

Side note: I have a big 100% duty cycle relay running an ARC switch panel, mainly because of ARC's constant hot wire direct to the battery. If the relay turns off, it sends a HUGE voltage spike back through the post that triggers the relay. It fried my 300$ wideband. It's the same scenario as Jyro mentioned above about turning off the cutoff while the car is running.....my fix is just a big diode on the trigger wire..

[jyro]

the industrial fix is

I have a big 100% duty cycle relay running an ARC switch panel, mainly because of ARC's constant hot wire direct to the battery. If the relay turns off, it sends a HUGE voltage spike back through the post that triggers the relay.

a surge supressor, a zener diode across the coil.

http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2012...-zener-diodes/

[dee]

you can completely remove a battery in a running car, it won't shut off, don't try it in a newer car, it may burn up stuff.

The alternator is producing voltage, it's connected where the disconnect isn't shutting off voltage from the alternator, the alternator continues to self excite till it quits turning and it supplys voltage to the ignition. That's why the alternator should always be connected to the battery. Why is this so hard to understand?

I suppose the confusion enters when there are 2 different purposes for the disconnect switch, one would be to work on the car without pulling a battery cable, the NHRA rear battery rule is to enable a track worker to shut down a car after a wreck.
In that case, the motor is running, in tech at a track like Ennis, the teck guys will sometimes check your disconnect switch by having the car running and hitting the switch to off, a few don't pass when the car keeps running because of the alternator wire being on the wrong side of the switch.

I understand what the switch is for, I was thinking he had the alt on the battery side of the switch. With it being on the opposite side it can kill electronics like you said but if left on very long it will kill the alternator as well.

[KBScobravert]

a surge supressor, a zener diode across the coil.

http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2012...-zener-diodes/

85 to 86 of the relay coil right? Doing a complete rewire of my entire car almost down to the headlight harness. I have been looking at zener diodes after reading in the books I posted above. I just need to know if I am gonna need to figure a way to wire them into this Leash Relay Box

http://www.leashelectronics.com/4-Relay-Power-Board-4R2012.htm

[danielhv]

Ok, re-did the diagram showing correct gauge wire, and added another distribution block for 12v switched.

Is this ok?

[KBScobravert]

Grounds man......GROUNDSSSSSS. Improves them.

[jyro]

I don't have the relay in front of me

85 to 86 of the relay coil right? Doing a complete rewire of my entire car almost down to the headlight harness. I have been looking at zener diodes after reading in the books I posted above. I just need to know if I am gonna need to figure a way to wire them into this Leash Relay Box
http://www.leashelectronics.com/4-Re...ard-4R2012.htm

someone posted the terminal numbers last week on here. yes. the diode has to be in the correct terminals and with the correct polarity or it will create a short. I think 16 volt or so will stop any spikes from hurting your system. a capacitor parallel with the msd leads helps filter the spikes also and provides a boost to the ignition if the wire is a little small sized in the ckt somewhere.

Adding a Capacitor:
Here's the part you may have heard of, but never paid much attention to. Adding a capacitor when installing an MSD offers several advantages and is very benificial to a long lasting ignition. MSD calls it a "Noise Filter," but it is simply just a cap. Typically, these are used to help filter out any radiated noise from the ignition to your electrical system which can cause some radiated noise through your stereo. For most of us this won't be a problem. The important thing is that this cap also filters the power going to the MSD. This will prevent power surges and spikes from damaging the MSD. Things like jump-starting your car are very tough on sensitive parts, but using a cap will provide the protection you need.

At this point, you have the option of either ordering the MSD part (PN 8830), which is what I recommend, or going to your local electronics part store and picking one up. If you do the latter, you will need one of at least 25,000 microferrad and 16 volts. Anything bigger will be fine, but any larger than 50,000 microferrads will simply be overkill. Just make sure that it's at least 16 volts and not just a 12 volt cap.

To install the cap, simply run the power lead for the MSD to the positive terminal of the cap. Then run a wire from this same terminal on the cap over to the battery. At this point you have two options: You can either run the negitive lead from the MSD much the same way - to the cap and then to ground, or you can simply ground the MSD and then ground the cap - independently. (Both methods are shown below) Either way will work just as well, just go with whatever install method you think will fit your install best.

Understand that adding the cap may be the one thing that makes the differance between an ignition that lasts the life of the car -vs- one that only lasts to the end of the year. After having installed around a hundred of these Ignitions, I can assure you it really does make all the difference. The only two I've ever seen go bad, didn't have a cap installed.

http://www.erareplicas.com/427man/wiring/msd-install.htm

[KBScobravert]

I have contemplated running my EFI components (coils, cam/crank sensor, ECU, injector driver) +12v power source through a cap first. The AEM electronics are very sensitive to noise. Hell even running my floating ground near my fans have caused my cam signal return to flutter. The car is coming apart in two weeks for a complete rewire.

No MSD box on mine. Just the AEM ECU and LQ9 truck coils.

[danielhv]

Grounds man......GROUNDSSSSSS. Improves them.

Where else are you talking about?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[danielhv]

Any other thoughts or concerns on the last diagram? Also, should I run the 1/0 through the interior or exterior?

[KBScobravert]

Where else are you talking about?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Ground the battery directly to the block. If it is a 20' run and you are using electronics that pull more than 100amps combined total use a 1/0. Link the cylinder heads with a 8-10ga wire bolted to the battery to block junction. Ground the battery directly to the chassis (in the rear is fine to sheetmetal) with a 10ga. That will serve as a ground for items such as tail lights, fuel pump, etc. My fuel pump grounds straight to the battery though through the same bolt that locks it to the trunk floor to the battery. Back up front, if you have a high amp alternator, run a ground wire from the alternator case to the block ground also. For me I run a 1/0 to a in line junction block then break it off to the block, alternator, general ground bus. Large amp items like fans get grounded straight to the general ground bus. I don't think I have a single ground outside of the dash items and exterior lights that ground to body.

[bigminz]

Ground the battery directly to the block. If it is a 20' run and you are using electronics that pull more than 100amps combined total use a 1/0. Link the cylinder heads with a 8-10ga wire bolted to the battery to block junction. Ground the battery directly to the chassis (in the rear is fine to sheetmetal) with a 10ga. That will serve as a ground for items such as tail lights, fuel pump, etc. My fuel pump grounds straight to the battery though through the same bolt that locks it to the trunk floor to the battery. Back up front, if you have a high amp alternator, run a ground wire from the alternator case to the block ground also. For me I run a 1/0 to a in line junction block then break it off to the block, alternator, general ground bus. Large amp items like fans get grounded straight to the general ground bus. I don't think I have a single ground outside of the dash items and exterior lights that ground to body.

yep, big fan of the "floating" grounds like you describe