Wiring help... Battery relocation...

[danielhv]

Having trouble understanding how to do this correctly... I have a mini starter and a 3g alternator... I want to make the wire running to the starter hot only when cranking. Plan to move the starter solenoid to the trunk too. Also need to make sure the kill switch is done right.



Sorry for the drawing... Just doodling at work.

Thoughts?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[dee]

If the solenoid Is remote why are there 2 wires running to the starter?

Never mind I thought the 1/0 was a 10 gauge. Also the starter should ground through the block and not the solenoid. Your wiring will keep power at the starter at all times since it is also powering up you understood power source. Cutout switch is fine or can interrupt the ground either way it will work. You really need a solenoid for just the starter and a solenoid or relay for your other power stuff.

[BERNIE MOSFET]

Shouldn't the line from the starter solenoid to the starter be separate from all the i/o lines?

The solenoid will have 4 leads, yes? One set is +/- for operating the solenoid that connects the second set - a switch. You'd have all your other i/o lines on one side of the switch, always hot. Then you have only the starter i/o line on the other side of the switch which is only hot when activate the solenoid. As Dee said, starter ground goes to block, not return to solenoid.

edit: like so?

[dee]

I would run the other stuff off a separate solenoid that is activated by the run position of the ignition switch instead of just the battery, just to eliminate an extra possible draw on the battery if the kill switch is left on.

[jyro]

Shouldn't the line from the starter solenoid to the starter be separate from all the i/o lines?

The solenoid will have 4 leads, yes? One set is +/- for operating the solenoid that connects the second set - a switch. You'd have all your other i/o lines on one side of the switch, always hot. Then you have only the starter i/o line on the other side of the switch which is only hot when activate the solenoid. As Dee said, starter ground goes to block, not return to solenoid.

edit: like so?

move your alternator wire to the battery + terminal. If you don't your at ligh risk of burning all your electronics up when you switch the disconnect with the motor running. The load of the battery keeps the alternator voltage correct, when you cut out the battery with the alternator putting out juice, the voltage can spike and the motor may keep running also.

[BERNIE MOSFET]

move your alternator wire to the battery + terminal. If you don't your at ligh risk of burning all your electronics up when you switch the disconnect with the motor running. The load of the battery keeps the alternator voltage correct, when you cut out the battery with the alternator putting out juice, the voltage can spike and the motor may keep running also.

Ah, yes. I didn't really consider the cutoff location.

[danielhv]

well shit now im even more confused. I suck at this kinda stuff.

[dee]

What has you stumped?

[danielhv]

What has you stumped?

Is this right? I'm just confused on the 3g alternator and the mini-starter... their wiring is different than stock.

I color coded it by wire size...

[dee]

Looks good just remember anything hooked onto your power block will have power all the time. What's different about the starter it either uses a remote solenoid or has one mounted to it. Alt should be pretty simple as well unless it needs an external regulator which isn't that complicated either.

[jyro]

wire sizes

Is this right? I'm just confused on the 3g alternator and the mini-starter... their wiring is different than stock.

I color coded it by wire size...

I'd use 1/0 from the battery to the ground and from the battery to the switch and starter sol.
your showing 4 gauge, why use 1/0 from the sol to the starter if you feed it with 4 gauge? I would use more wire size to the power block too, a msd has 10 gauge power leads.

[Baba Ganoush]

My mini-starter had the solenoid attached, so I just used my cutoff as a remote + post of sorts. Battery on one side, everything else on the other. I put a fuse on that alt wire, too.

[KBScobravert]

Aside from the good information in here, I would suggest purchasing these two books.
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Wiring-Electrical-Systems-Workbench/dp/1932494871/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_y[/ame]

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1934709557/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

You can see several of his Youtube how to's also.

[KBScobravert]

I run
Battery in the trunk

Ground:
1/0ga from battery to a junction block
Junction block to chassis (1/0ga)
Junction block to left cylinder head (8ga) to right cylinder head (8ga)
Junction block to bell housing near starter (1/0ga) "T" to the back of the alternator (1/0ga)
My ECU, Coils, Cam/crank sensor ground from a (1/0ga) to the battery on its own leg.
8ga from battery to chassis at the battery.

Positive:
1/0ga from Alternator to battery
1/0ga from battery to junction block.........feeds fuse boxes, relay boxes, etc.

I have not worked a cut off switch into the system yet.

[jyro]

If you turn the switch off with it running

My mini-starter had the solenoid attached, so I just used my cutoff as a remote + post of sorts. Battery on one side, everything else on the other. I put a fuse on that alt wire, too.

will it sut off ? Thats the purpose of the disconnect, to stop all electrican function.