Swap in a 4v. I think nemo is selling a maurader drivetrain. Pick it up and find some 93-98 valve covers. You could use the maurader intake but it'll take some work.
I just said 5.0 because its all I know. If I follow through on this purchase, it will be my sn body style mustang. Is there much of a lower difference between the 5.0 and the 4.6?
I just said 5.0 because its all I know. If I follow through on this purchase, it will be my sn body style mustang. Is there much of a lower difference between the 5.0 and the 4.6?
I just said 5.0 because its all I know. If I follow through on this purchase, it will be my sn body style mustang. Is there much of a lower difference between the 5.0 and the 4.6?
Much of a lower differance?
It's two completely different engines.
Do not to 2v, go 4v if anything, mainly for simplicicity. Keep it mostly stock and it'll be just fine. But it won't be fast.
If you really wanted a pushrod then a 351 is the best way to go. $$$$$
I just said 5.0 because its all I know. If I follow through on this purchase, it will be my sn body style mustang. Is there much of a lower difference between the 5.0 and the 4.6?
Low end power? The 5.0L was rated at 215hp/285tq, the 4.6L NPI was identical.
It's a pretty easy swap. A k member, engine, painless sells a new harness, ECM, and trans of your choice. Might need a custom driveshaft depending on the trans you choose. One thing to be cautious of is trans. Make sure it's for an sn95 car or the shifter will be moved forward about an inch. Other then that its a straight forward swap. On a budget you can prolly score a fox stock kmember for free. It will bolt right up to your stock control arms and be fine.
I can tell you don't do a new coyote swap....mine is turning into a money pit. The car's new nickname is Snowball. This is also a race car without a/c and any luxuries.
I found a 4.6 but I want a 5.0. If something was to go wrong with the car. I would feel more comfortable working on a 5.0 plus, I would have a 5.0
So let me get this straight. You feel comfortable doing a complete driveline/ECM swap, but don't feel comfortable owning one of the easiest to work on and most reliable motors out there?
The 4.6L is easier to work on than the 5.0L is IMO. To get to anything on the front of the 5.0L, you have to remove a couple of brackets, where you don't with the 4.6L. Changing the plugs on the 5.0L means you have to reach down to the side of the head, the 4.6L is right on top. Water pump is a 15 minute job on the 4.6L, alternator is a 10 minute job. Even a head swap isn't that difficult on a 4.6L.
The only advantage that I can think of on a 5.0L is that is easier and cheaper to make power NA.
So let me get this straight. You feel comfortable doing a complete driveline/ECM swap, but don't feel comfortable owning one of the easiest to work on and most reliable motors out there?
The 4.6L is easier to work on than the 5.0L is IMO. To get to anything on the front of the 5.0L, you have to remove a couple of brackets, where you don't with the 4.6L. Changing the plugs on the 5.0L means you have to reach down to the side of the head, the 4.6L is right on top. Water pump is a 15 minute job on the 4.6L, alternator is a 10 minute job. Even a head swap isn't that difficult on a 4.6L.
The only advantage that I can think of on a 5.0L is that is easier and cheaper to make power NA.
Same point i was trying to get at. The amount of work involved in swapping motors is more trouble than he'd ever have with just driving it as is. My 4.6 cobra was one of the easiest cars I'd ever worked on, minus the third starter bolt lol
^^ ya 4.6`s are pretty easy to work on,intake swap on one vs a 5L is much easier and third starter bolt is real easy with the right tools...lol.I hate when people leave it out.I just think the 5L can go alot more miles before a motor rebuild/replace.My 03 mach 1 hade 80k miles on it when i sold it last month and i swore it felt like it was going to fall apart motor wise.my girls V8 fox has 200k+ and still going strong.
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