Valvetrain gurus inside please.

[91CoupeMike]

""Those arent very good springs. and the with the low lift of the cam you may not be getting the open presure the cam needs. If the car feels like it is falling off up top i would look at springs before lifters""

This is what they said on corral.

Thoughts?

[Blackpony]

Cam wasn't brand new. And from everywhere I've seen. Reusing hydraulic roller lifters isn't a big deal.

when they have a lot of miles it is.

[91CoupeMike]

when they have a lot of miles it is.

Hmm, we'll I guess I'll get new lifters, what else should I change while I'm there?

I'm not certain that it will fix the issue entirely. I'd like to maximize this combo, if possible.

[greenbullitt]

does the valvetrain get noisy under high rpm? I may have missed it, but, age of springs?

[Blackpony]

Hmm, we'll I guess I'll get new lifters, what else should I change while I'm there?

I'm not certain that it will fix the issue entirely. I'd like to maximize this combo, if possible.

Maybe i missed it but are you running one piece pushrods? did you measure them for the correct length?

[Blackpony]

Oh I would also put a oil pressure gauge on there and check pressure. I have seen before where pressure wasnt high enough and it would cause the lifters to collapse at high rpms due to the stress and loads of the high spring pressures. A fresh new high pressure pump solved the problem.. just a thought.

[slim87gt]

you might be out of camshaft
what rpm range is the cam good to?
Did the person running the dyno let off the gas before he hit the sample button or hit the sample button then let off?

[BlackGT]

I was talking fords, my 2000 cummins is a working pressure gauge as is chevys, although they have a shit ton of cluster problems

Only Ford I've owned that had a real time oil pressure gauge was my SVT Focus... Guess they save a lot of money by not putting a real gauge on the high production units.

[90MarkVII]

Spun the nut until it stopped, half turn and locked the poly lock.

This may be your problem.
You spin the nut until you get zero lash, then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Zero lash means there is no wiggle room between the pushrod, lifter and rocker.
What you have described tells me you are waaaay off on rocker arm adjustment. You may even have your shit bottomed out. If you have ran it with them bottomed out, you need to buy new lifters AND check to make certain no pushrods are bent.

Some tutorials say to spin the pushrod as you tighten the nut, and when you feel resistance you're there, then go 1/2 turn.
I say oily fingers and pushrods make that too hard to tell.
I personally jiggle the pushrod up and down as I spin the rocker nut. Once there is no jiggle room you have zero lash, then go 1/2 turn.
And you HAVE to have the valve on the base circle.

[91CoupeMike]

This may be your problem.
You spin the nut until you get zero lash, then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Zero lash means there is no wiggle room between the pushrod, lifter and rocker.
What you have described tells me you are waaaay off on rocker arm adjustment. You may even have your shit bottomed out. If you have ran it with them bottomed out, you need to buy new lifters AND check to make certain no pushrods are bent.

Some tutorials say to spin the pushrod as you tighten the nut, and when you feel resistance you're there, then go 1/2 turn.
I say oily fingers and pushrods make that too hard to tell.
I personally jiggle the pushrod up and down as I spin the rocker nut. Once there is no jiggle room you have zero lash, then go 1/2 turn.
And you HAVE to have the valve on the base circle.

I meant zero lash, I spun the nut until pushrod no longer had vertical movement. If fireing order, turning the crank 90* each time.

[jyro]

the problem is the way you adjusted them

learn how to adjust lifters and your problem may go away.
when you adjust lifters like that your losing so much it's unreal.
Using a good set of used hyd roller lifters is no problem.

Crank each rocker arm over till the valve is fully closed, then barely bump it a tiny bit more, this assures the lifter is on the lowest part of the cam. Back the nut off till the pushrod has slack in it at the rocker arm. Screw the nut down till all the slack is out of the pushrod, turn it 1/8 turn more and lock it with the setscrew. do this on all 16 one at a time. I do this with the intake off so I can actually see the lifter top and see it deflect so I know when it's correct. This is on a race car and I don't care if there is a small amount of lifter click. The way you have it now, the lifters are not letting the valves fully close at upper rpm range. With it adjusted the way I do it the lifter can't pump much at all and it lets you get more rpm. try it and see. It sure will be quicker and cheaper than buying new lifters and a intake gasket.

[jyro]

the problem I have with that is

Some tutorials say to spin the pushrod as you tighten the nut, and when you feel resistance you're there, then go 1/2 turn.
I say oily fingers and pushrods make that too hard to tell.

if you have the lifters over tightened and you loosen them, their no longer full of oil and the lifter plunger will have air in it the amount you backoff the rocker arm if it was infact over tightened. then you won't be able to feel the resistance till the plunger is pushed down to where it was and where the oil is. this is also true for new lifters with no oil in them. always pump up lifters with a oil squrt gun so you can adjust them correctly if you don't have the intake off so you can see the plunger deflect. on a new motor, prime it with the oil pump with all the pushrods loose so the lifters completely fill.

[91CoupeMike]

learn how to adjust lifters and your problem may go away.
when you adjust lifters like that your losing so much it's unreal.
Using a good set of used hyd roller lifters is no problem.

Crank each rocker arm over till the valve is fully closed, then barely bump it a tiny bit more, this assures the lifter is on the lowest part of the cam. Back the nut off till the pushrod has slack in it at the rocker arm. Screw the nut down till all the slack is out of the pushrod, turn it 1/8 turn more and lock it with the setscrew. do this on all 16 one at a time. I do this with the intake off so I can actually see the lifter top and see it deflect so I know when it's correct. This is on a race car and I don't care if there is a small amount of lifter click. The way you have it now, the lifters are not letting the valves fully close at upper rpm range. With it adjusted the way I do it the lifter can't pump much at all and it lets you get more rpm. try it and see. It sure will be quicker and cheaper than buying new lifters and a intake gasket.

That is how I did it, I just did 1/2 turn instead of 1/8.

I was bad at explaining that in the previous post.

[racrguy]

And this, dear friends, is why solid cams are the shit. No need for all that extra turning mess.

1. Insert feeler guage
2. Snug rocker up
3. Lock the poly
4. ???
5. PROFIT!

[jyro]

you can still do this with hyd lifters if

And this, dear friends, is why solid cams are the shit. No need for all that extra turning mess.

1. Insert feeler guage
2. Snug rocker up
3. Lock the poly
4. ???
5. PROFIT!

if you can put up with the oil and smoke with the motor running, you don't even need a gauge, just a ear, back off till it clicks, tighten it till it stops and another 1/8th. Even easier than solids.