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Oil leak, rear lower intake.

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  • #16
    Don't be shy at all with the sealer, check the corners real real good and clean them. I tried to rush one time and left some gaskets in the corners and same thing happen to me.
    Street car.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by robert View Post
      What FastFox says
      Do you recall how much silicone-sealer you used?
      Should be a thick bead across. G/L
      All in all maybe a half of a tube? Rtv black I did grey the first time.

      And I'll look for some that hold onto the block, mine came with cork junk

      320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

      DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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      • #18
        I'll be doing this on Sunday, I'll be easy on it so I don't blow it all out. Grr.. Tired of doing it twice let alone 3 times!

        320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

        DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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        • #19
          Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View Post
          All in all maybe a half of a tube? Rtv black I did grey the first time.

          And I'll look for some that hold onto the block, mine came with cork junk
          felpro's come with the blue block hugger types. Autozone has them on a lifetime warranty, so if you fuck it up you can take them back and exchange them...
          "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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          • #20
            I had the same problem, but it was due to the surface not being clean. I used to use carburetor cleaner to prep the surface to clean all the oil off, then use rtv sealant. Id let it get tacky then put the intake on, never had a problem

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            • #21
              It took me three times to get mine to seal. I used a lot of rtv. Put one bead down then another on top of that. No problems now.
              Doug

              90 LX Coupe 5.0
              90 7up Vert. 5.0

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              • #22
                It possible you have a large gap between the intake and block. Pull the upper off, tke some brake cleaner and clean the back of the intake and block off real good. Then get a mirror and flashlight to see if you can tell where its leaking. You might be able to squeeze some silicon there and seal it up without having to pull the lower. This worked for me once many years ago.

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                • #23
                  Maybe lower intake to head fitment? What Brodix head?

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                  • #24
                    Use Ultra Black...... if you're not already using it, not just a black silicone. Like mentioned above, let it get tacky before putting the intake on, give it 10-15 minutes to cure after applying then lower intake down. You should be able to lightly touch the surface without it being wet, it will have a light skin to it when ready. I rarely use gaskets between the block and intake on any of the v motors. Also, if you have excessive blow by, it will push out and leak from somewhere, it's just a given. The down side to not having a fresh tight bottom end when you install a nice tight top end is the potential for heavy blow by. A leak down test would help to diagnose this.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by shumpertdavid View Post
                      Use Ultra Black...... if you're not already using it, not just a black silicone. Like mentioned above, let it get tacky before putting the intake on, give it 10-15 minutes to cure after applying then lower intake down. You should be able to lightly touch the surface without it being wet, it will have a light skin to it when ready. I rarely use gaskets between the block and intake on any of the v motors. Also, if you have excessive blow by, it will push out and leak from somewhere, it's just a given. The down side to not having a fresh tight bottom end when you install a nice tight top end is the potential for heavy blow by. A leak down test would help to diagnose this.
                      What he says. Toss the end gaskets. Use the Ultra Black in the pressure can. I use one wide bead then another thin bead on top with build up in the corners on both sides of the intake gaskets. Let it sit long enough to get a light skin. I use guide studs to set the intake down also. Leaves no room for you to "wiggle" the ends and fuck up your seals.

                      How long after you dropped the manifold did you start the engine? If you didn't let the RTV cure you just blew it out anyway.
                      Fuck you. We're going to Costco.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by kbscobravert View Post
                        I use guide studs to set the intake down also. Leaves no room for you to "wiggle" the ends and fuck up your seals.
                        Not much of a contribution on my part but this always works very well for me.
                        2014 GT
                        2013 FX2 ecoboost

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                        • #27
                          I just used orange silicone on my Capri and no leaks.

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                          • #28
                            You can run a hose from the VC to the tb or to the intake tube after the MAF meter. This will vent the crankcase at wot.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Diabolic View Post
                              You can run a hose from the VC to the tb or to the intake tube after the MAF meter. This will vent the crankcase at wot.
                              I remember reading this a while back. I'll have to put it back on.

                              320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                              DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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                              • #30
                                You have the Accufab Race tb that does not have the tube on top. You will have to tap into the intake tube.

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