Best place to get (dealer only) Ford Parts?

[Rreemo]

I'm doing to trans, clutch, etc. in my OBS Powerstroke, and while I'm there I've noticed that I also need to seal up some exhaust leaks....the common ones at the up-pipes and manifolds....heh...now I know where that extra noise, stink, and lack of boost was coming from.

Anyways....I'm getting the new SMF and clutch assy. from our good friend Jimmy at Napa, but I need some Ford-only stuff that I'd like to avoid the dealership with and just order online....who do you guys use?

Here's a list of what I need....

Up-pipe (left) (Maybe)
PN F4TZ-6K854-A
(1)

Up-pipe (right) (Maybe)
PN F6TZ-6K854-A
(1)

Up-pipe Donut Gaskets
PN F4TZ-6K854-C
(2)

Up-Pipe Flange Bolts (bottom)
PN W300013
(4)

Up-Pipe Flange Nuts (bottom)
PN W300050
(4)

Up-Pipe Flange Bolts (top)
PN W301640
(4)

Turbo Pedestal O-ring (small)
PN F4TZ-6N653-A
(1)

Turbo Pedestal O-ring (large)
PN F4TZ-6N653-B
(1)

Turbo Exhaust Inlet Gasket
PN F4TZ-6N640-B
(1)

[greenbullitt]

tousley ford gets you emplyee cost. no maybe on the up pipes, youll need them. youll see why after they come out. have a torch ready to try and save the transition, otherwise be ready to drill, may even have to buy a new one

[8mpg]

tascaparts.com should be the same pricing.. 10% over cost. Some dealerships will match the prices.

[Rreemo]

Thanks! Interestingly enough, I've known of the up-pipes to be bad b/c of those crappy donut gaskets eroding the pipe away, but mine only appears to have very slightly leaked on the drivers side...just a tiny bit of soot, so that's what I say maybe. But I'm going to pull them out and check no matter what....we'll soon find out for sure.

This thing has leaked the worst on the manifolds....rear drivers side especially. I've done several of those in the past, and also just had them resurfaced at the machine shop, but wondering about using some of those newer Fel-Pro aluminum gaskets instead....I've read a lot of good things on them....never used them, tho. Any experience with them?

[greenbullitt]

gaskets will help alot. id try just that

[Rreemo]

gaskets will help alot. id try just that

Thanks man...I think that's what I'll do.

I did one of these 7.3's once that still leaked a little after the resurface. Came to realize it was probably the head surface that was the issue. Those thick aluminum gaskets should eliminate that worry on both sides.

[Rreemo]

Just to update -

Stock left up-pipe looked fine when we got it out...right side pipe was hosed, even though there was hardly any soot visible on that side. A couple of the lower flange bolts had to be cut out and 2 of the top bolts broke off in the Y-collector, so I pulled the turbo and pedestal....after soaking in PB-Blaster, torching, drilling, and overall dicking with that part on & off about 3-4 hours I finally decided that my time is worth much more than just replacing the entire collector for ~$120. Probably a good thing anyway b/c I also discovered that the turbo O'rings were indeed leaking a little at the block, as well as turbo-to-pedestal. Both manifolds were leaking at the rear...drivers side much worse than passenger, and the drivers side is indeed a bigger whore to get to than I had remembered.

Currently waiting on parts, and hope to be going back together next weekend.

Hey Greenbullit - When you do these up-pipes, do you normally assemble the pipes into the y-transition and then finagle the whole assembly up from the back/bottom as one piece....or go the route of reinstalling the turbo with the Y attached and then each pipe separately?

I've always done the latter, but read an online article that mentions the first way http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/f...roke_upgrades/ I just don't think it would be very easy (or perhaps even possible?) to get to those bottom flange nuts if you went that route.

[greenbullitt]

Just to update -

Stock left up-pipe looked fine when we got it out...right side pipe was hosed, even though there was hardly any soot visible on that side. A couple of the lower flange bolts had to be cut out and 2 of the top bolts broke off in the Y-collector, so I pulled the turbo and pedestal....after soaking in PB-Blaster, torching, drilling, and overall dicking with that part on & off about 3-4 hours I finally decided that my time is worth much more than just replacing the entire collector for ~$120. Probably a good thing anyway b/c I also discovered that the turbo O'rings were indeed leaking a little at the block, as well as turbo-to-pedestal. Both manifolds were leaking at the rear...drivers side much worse than passenger, and the drivers side is indeed a bigger whore to get to than I had remembered.

Currently waiting on parts, and hope to be going back together next weekend.

Hey Greenbullit - When you do these up-pipes, do you normally assemble the pipes into the y-transition and then finagle the whole assembly up from the back/bottom as one piece....or go the route of reinstalling the turbo with the Y attached and then each pipe separately?

I've always done the latter, but read an online article that mentions the first way http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/f...roke_upgrades/ I just don't think it would be very easy (or perhaps even possible?) to get to those bottom flange nuts if you went that route.

I like your method. just make damn sure not to tighten until everything is situated, but im sure you know that

[Rreemo]

Thanks man....much appreciated!