Converting AN Flare fittings to O-Ring

[dville_gt]

I remember turbostang saying something about this, and from what I remember he said that since the AN flare fittings and AN o-ring fittings have the same thread pitch you can simply take a flare fitting and put a AN o-ring on it and use it like it was always an o-ring fitting. If whatever the fitting is going into (such as a pump or a regulator cannot take the flare portion of the fitting you can grind the flare off and effectively have a AN o-ring fitting without the additional cost. I pm'd Brooks about it but I haven't heard back, going to put another large order into Summit and can save quite a bit of money just buying the normal AN fittings and converting them rather then buying the more expensive AN flare to O-ring fittings.

Also, anyone got a Summit Discount Code?

[greenbullitt]

YES, the normal an fittings can be used after theyre cut off on one end. In order to be done correctly, they should be radiused on that end

[dville_gt]

so use a hand tool to go over the fresh cut inner edge to create a slight inner diameter radius? my father in law has a scraper made for just this (only used it on rolled steel sleeves in the past, figure it'll work even better with these soft aluminum fittings)

[greenbullitt]

so use a hand tool to go over the fresh cut inner edge to create a slight inner diameter radius? my father in law has a scraper made for just this (only used it on rolled steel sleeves in the past, figure it'll work even better with these soft aluminum fittings)

I cant imagine that would make enough radius. id prefer a lathe.

[dville_gt]

i've got access to a lathe as well, as going to use it to cut the end off the an fittings. how much of a radius is needed (we are talking about an inner diameter radius, right)?

[turbostang]

I thought I replied


Like Paul said, cut off the flared end and radius the inside of the fitting for complete flow. You'd only have to do that on the fittings that face the flow, if that makes any sense.


Edit, radius as much as possible.

Lathe is preffered, but not "mandatory". It will look a lot better done in a lathe.

[Magnimike1]

I thought I replied


Like Paul said, cut off the flared end and radius the inside of the fitting for complete flow. You'd only have to do that on the fittings that face the flow, if that makes any sense.


Edit, radius as much as possible.

Lathe is preffered, but not "mandatory". It will look a lot better done in a lathe.

Or you could use a case rimming/de-burr tool for reloading ammunition, if no access to a lathe.

[dville_gt]

I thought I replied


Like Paul said, cut off the flared end and radius the inside of the fitting for complete flow. You'd only have to do that on the fittings that face the flow, if that makes any sense.


Edit, radius as much as possible.

Lathe is preffered, but not "mandatory". It will look a lot better done in a lathe.

That is strange, I didn't receive a reply to my last PM but I just assumed that I over-stayed my welcome for free advise from Brooks!

I'd like to thank all of those who have offered their expertise (esp. greenbullitt, turbostang, jimd and lason), I am sure a lot of my questions seem redundant. I love doing as much as I can myself, but I am never one to shy away from asking those who have done it before for input, shortens the learning curve and helps prevent costly mistakes.

[turbostang]

Or you could use a case rimming/de-burr tool for reloading ammunition, if no access to a lathe.

Not sure how those tools work, but this is much more than a deburring. I'm talking a 1/4" Radius here..not anything I'd want to do by hand a dozen times.

[Magnimike1]

Not sure how those tools work, but this is much more than a deburring. I'm talking a 1/4" Radius here..not anything I'd want to do by hand a dozen times.

They make them so you could put them in a cordless screwdriver or drill. Pretty sharp. They cut brass quick. I imagine aluminum even faster..