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F150 Fuel Pump Replacement

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  • F150 Fuel Pump Replacement

    Anyone done this on a early 2000 F150? I'm wondering if this is something I could tackle myself and wanted to know how much trouble this might be before I buy the part and start turning wrenches.

  • #2
    I have a 2001 supercrew, never done this on it before, though. How many miles does yours have? I'm at nearly 200k, still on original pump.

    I've tackled it on a 1996 Z71 I used to have, not too bad if you have a helping hand or two.
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    • #3
      Its got 170k and its the original pump. I can hear it prime just fine but its refused to start several times now and even sputtered while stopped or traffic or a light. The plugs, wires, and coil have been replaced within the last 3 months as well.

      When it won's start the SES lights up as well as the oil/coolant and the battery. I wait a minute or two and then it fires right up as normal. I'm really confused since the engine light goes right away when it starts normally so I don't have a code to reference.

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      • #4
        Hmm, odd that it doesn't hold a code. I've been having an issue with mine lately. Starts fine, but then idles rough until warm. It finally did it enough that I got codes for O2 sensors. Until that, I was speculating all kinds of reasons why, but didn't want to just start spending money replacing stuff.
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        • #5
          Correction, fuel pump was replaced around 2 years ago. I'm actually thinking I may have just gotten some bad fuel. I replaced the fuel filter and it was actually pretty dark brown. Gonna go get some HEET and see if it helps and I'll take a look at the battery. It's been replaced recently but I'll check the water levels and charge it if necessary. Not really ready to start throwing parts at it.

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          • #6
            I did mine on my 2000 F150. Its easy if you need to change it.
            Doug

            90 LX Coupe 5.0
            90 7up Vert. 5.0

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            • #7
              Step one disconnect the tail lamp harness at the bumper, step 2 disconnect the filler neck, step 3 loosen passenger bed bolts and remove drivers side bolts, pop the bed up and block or use a jack to hold it up.

              Has worked for any ford or GM pickup I have touched

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Skidonenko View Post
                Step one disconnect the tail lamp harness at the bumper, step 2 disconnect the filler neck, step 3 loosen passenger bed bolts and remove drivers side bolts, pop the bed up and block or use a jack to hold it up.

                Has worked for any ford or GM pickup I have touched
                +1 that's how I did it on my 99L when I put the Walbros in

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                • #9
                  Whats fuel pressure at rail? should be koeo 35-45 psi running 28-50

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                  • #10
                    I believe it is similar to a mustang, No vacuum to the regulator = peak pressure. 40-45 n vacuum sounds normal

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                    • #11
                      I dont have a gauge to verify the fuel pressure. I keep getting told it may just be a case of bad/watered down fuel. I added a bottle of HEET and drove it for an hour last night and not one issue. Still no codes to go off of either. Hoping it was just that, bad fuel.

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                      • #12
                        Finally gave me a code and stopped by autozone. They said it was related to the fuel pump. I played it safe and got the entire fuel pump assembly, new fuel pump relay, and fuel filter. Took off the camper top with some help from the neighbors and removed the bedliner and got the bed lifted enough to replace the pump.

                        Got everything replaced and everything put back together and after it primed for a bit it started on the second try. Service engine soon light went right out. But it runs pretty rough at idle, anything past that and it's like new. I let it get up to temp and then took in on the highway and it ran great. But pretty rough while idling at stoplights and stop signs though. I figure I'll get another set of plugs and see if that helps things. Other then that any ideas?

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                        • #13
                          Air filter, mass air, O2 sensors

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                          • #14
                            I've never gotten a code for anything related to the mass air or o2's. The air filter was recently replaced and I cleaned the mass air with a spray at that time. The trucks been very well maintained so it's out of character for it to start running so shitty but then again it's nearing 180k.

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                            • #15
                              What code did you have that "pertained to the fuel pump" a number would help Pxxxx, the rough idle could possibly be the upper intake gaskets being old and shrunken, it can create a small vacuum leak. Common practice on ford and mazda vehicles in the late 90's and early 2000's was to turn the check engine lamp on during cranking if the ecm didn't receive a crank position signal.

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