Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

94-95 Cam Install

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    I have had good luck with the steeda 19 cam.
    07 GT500
    05 SRT10
    88 turbocoupe T-bird
    93 Cobra
    86 coupe
    Ducati 848

    Comment


    • #17
      I have a b cam $100

      Comment


      • #18
        You can swap it in the car with just removing the radiator. If you have a AFPR its alot easier to make run right but can be done easily without. No tune is necessary. Just little timing adj and its ok/

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by Whiteboy View Post
          I have a b cam $100
          Jeremy I want it! Consider it sold!
          GOD BLESS TEXAS
          August Landscaping
          214-779-7278
          Seb's high class.
          He'll mow your grass.
          He'll kick your ass.
          And while his kidney stones pass,
          He'll piss in a glass!

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by G.. View Post
            You can swap it in the car with just removing the radiator. If you have a AFPR its alot easier to make run right but can be done easily without. No tune is necessary. Just little timing adj and its ok/
            Please elaborate on this fix more. How does the adjustable FPR help?

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Diabolic View Post
              Please elaborate on this fix more. How does the adjustable FPR help?
              Im under the impression you just bump the idle scew with the B303 cam.

              But just to be correct! I can slide the stock cam out and new cam in with just the Radiator out?
              GOD BLESS TEXAS
              August Landscaping
              214-779-7278
              Seb's high class.
              He'll mow your grass.
              He'll kick your ass.
              And while his kidney stones pass,
              He'll piss in a glass!

              Comment


              • #22
                I had a fairly large cam inn my daily driven 95 Cobra with a stroker. The surging idle was caused, IMHO, by the complicated and rolling timing of the SN95 ECM. Have you ever looked at how the final timing is calculated in an SN95 car? It's quite a headache. I also noticed that the factory tune was pretty rich during warm up mode with the SN platform, and this was only amplified more by a camshaft with more duration. If you get it set up and experience a surging idle in open loop only then I'd suspect a rich AFR. If you get a surging idle after warm up then I'd also look at the timing. Before I tuned my Cobra I just pulled the spout, set base timing at 26º, and left the spout out. This cured 90% of the surge. I then made a restrictor plate for my IAC that looked just like the stock gasket but with the hole sizes reduced by 50%. This took care of everything and allowed my idle to drop much faster when rolling to a stop or letting off the gas. You will sacrifice some gas mileage with the timing at only 26º during cruise, but without a tune it would be your best option to deal with a surging idle problem. Without a wideband on board I wouldn't mess with the FPR. Higher base FP makes the injectors act like they are larger than what the ECM thinks they are. In closed loop adaptivelearing will take over and correct the over fueling issue, but at wot it's all a guessing game. Better rich than lean, but performance and economy will suffer. Lowing the base FP will have just the opposite effect. Closed loop will allow learning to get back to stoich and wot will be leaner. This could be dangerous or cause detonation. I try not to mess with fuel without a wb. Finally, if the car has a surge at idle after warming up then adjusting the FP won't fix anything at all because after a few key cycles it will self correct.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Never done one on a SN but have done them on Foxes. Wrap the A/C compressor up and lay it on the fender, then unbolt the condenser and slide it up and over to the side. That should give you enough room to slip the cam out/in.
                  '93 Cobra-Coyote Powered
                  '13 Dodge Cummins
                  '14 Rubicon X

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Doing like that you will also not be able to swap out the cam bearings without a homemade magnet tool and some luck too.
                    WRX

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by mustang_revival View Post
                      Doing like that you will also not be able to swap out the cam bearings without a homemade magnet tool and some luck too.
                      This is what Im trying to avoid, Also wont the lifters fall in the motor once you remove the cam if you have the heads still mounted on the motor?
                      GOD BLESS TEXAS
                      August Landscaping
                      214-779-7278
                      Seb's high class.
                      He'll mow your grass.
                      He'll kick your ass.
                      And while his kidney stones pass,
                      He'll piss in a glass!

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by SEB View Post
                        This is what Im trying to avoid, Also wont the lifters fall in the motor once you remove the cam if you have the heads still mounted on the motor?
                        Once the lower is off, unbolt your rockers, then the spider, after that you can pull the dog bones and then the lifters.
                        '93 Cobra-Coyote Powered
                        '13 Dodge Cummins
                        '14 Rubicon X

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Just save up and do it right bud. Won't get what u want cutting corners might even cost more in the long run.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            A b cam is probably going to be a fucking nightmare in a SN95 unless you plan to get it tuned. Those cars usually hate cam swaps.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              I just installed a TF Stg 1 with ported cobra intake, GT40 heads, headers, and 30# inj, in his 95 GT. It's a pretty smooth idle. It needed the tps voltage dropped, and the IAC cleaned. It idles at 775 rpm and surges for maybe 10 seconds when it's first fired off.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Diabolic View Post
                                I just installed a TF Stg 1 with ported cobra intake, GT40 heads, headers, and 30# inj, in his 95 GT. It's a pretty smooth idle. It needed the tps voltage dropped, and the IAC cleaned. It idles at 775 rpm and surges for maybe 10 seconds when it's first fired off.
                                Im still on the fence on if im going to install the cam. You are one of the few members on here who has experience with the 94-95 Model Mustangs, Im just hoping with the Radatior removed I can slide the old cam out & the new cam in.


                                I already have the Upper & Lower off, I guess Waterpump is next & then Timing cover & Balancer?

                                Going to replace the Balancer with a Romac lightweight Balancer since I have im already in there
                                GOD BLESS TEXAS
                                August Landscaping
                                214-779-7278
                                Seb's high class.
                                He'll mow your grass.
                                He'll kick your ass.
                                And while his kidney stones pass,
                                He'll piss in a glass!

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X