Any tips, replaced fuel pump on 97 camry, won't prime/run.

[dville_gt]

Well, looks like my parking lot diagnostics were off, I knew the fuel pump was not priming, but with a pretty much dead battery (from my buddy cranking it over and over) and no test light, I just went off the fact that the pump was not pushing any fuel and that the car just died out of nowhere.

Put a new pump in tonight and nothing, it won't push fuel either . I didn't have a test light to see what's going on tonight either.

Anyone know any common problems? I tried swapping relays with known good ones. Buddy ended up confessing being about 15k over due on an oil change and I noticed there is coolant leaking from the rear of the engine somewhere down the oil pan. Car also doesn't sound normal when cranking it over. I am at s loss, next step is going to be to put a test light on it and see if the pump is getting voltage (I presume it is not).

I don't know much about 4 cly 1997 camrys so any insight would be great.

[JimD]

Fuses? Alarm system installed on it? What you mean not normal cranking. Like no compression? 2.2 is not interference so if the belt broke, no biggie. Still should get fuel tho. Squirt a couple shots of gas in the TB it should start. Then go from there. Bad ignition switch can also cause it.

[r**3_82gt]

Oil Pressure okay? My roomate in college had a high mileage Toyota Celica, and when the oil level got low enough the pressure dropped and the electric fuel pump wouldn't run.

[dville_gt]

Fuses? Alarm system installed on it? What you mean not normal cranking. Like no compression? 2.2 is not interference so if the belt broke, no biggie. Still should get fuel tho. Squirt a couple shots of gas in the TB it should start. Then go from there. Bad ignition switch can also cause it.

No alarm system. Not normal cranking like what I might expect a broken timing belt would be like (never had the luck to deal with a broken belt on a non-interference). It cranks, and the accessories move, but it sounds like a really shallow crank, like it's not really moving everything. Who knows when this car last saw a timing belt (if ever). I am going to get him to have it towed to my house today, I have been having to put together some tools and drive out 20 minutes to the car both times I have gone to work on it so inevitably I end up not having what I need. This way I can really take a look at it. I do wonder though why there is coolant dripping off the oil pan, that seems a bit concerning as I cannot see any hoses that make their way over there, Where is the water pump on these engines (towards the rear of the car on the passenger side of the engine?)

Also, what do you think about the guys answer below, I do know that the dipstick was showing absolutely no oil whatsoever. Could no oil pressure cause the pump to neither prime nor run when cranking? Seems strange since the engine never produces oil pressure when the car is off yet I assume like most cars it primes the pump for a few seconds before keying on.

Oil Pressure okay? My roomate in college had a high mileage Toyota Celica, and when the oil level got low enough the pressure dropped and the electric fuel pump wouldn't run.

I really hope that this has something to do with it, the dipstick was bone dry so it would not surprise me if the engine has no ability to build oil pressure upon cranking. I have asked above, but if anyone knows if there is any validity to this I'd appreciate the heads up. I am going to send him over there and have him add some oil to the engine.

[Super Cubano]

sounds like broken t-belt. remove oil cap and see if camshaft is moving while cranking. also distributors go out on those.

[dville_gt]

sounds like broken t-belt. remove oil cap and see if camshaft is moving while cranking. also distributors go out on those.

I tried removing the oil cap but the way the valve cover is designed it is hard to see the camshaft as it has this tray that I guess helps the oil not splatter up onto the cap.

[JimD]

W/p on those is behind the timing belt, front side of the motor, you can take the 4 bolts or whatever out and lift the top half of the timing belt cover off and see the cam gear/ belt.
I don't have one sitting in front of me but i believe the t-stat, ect sensor and heater core hoses go to the back side of the motor(motor/trans side) lots of crap there for coolant to leak.
Need anything off alldata, diagram or whatever, hollar back, be glad to copy/email it to you.
I don't believe oil pressure will prevent it from running, hell squirt some gas down the throat and see if it starts, (after checking belt of course).

[dville_gt]

W/p on those is behind the timing belt, front side of the motor, you can take the 4 bolts or whatever out and lift the top half of the timing belt cover off and see the cam gear/ belt.

This is where it is leaking, on the front side of the motor down the pan.

I don't have one sitting in front of me but i believe the t-stat, ect sensor and heater core hoses go to the back side of the motor(motor/trans side) lots of crap there for coolant to leak.

There doesn't seem to be any leaking from the trans side of the motor, I could follow the heater core hoses and none seemed to have any leaks.

Need anything off alldata, diagram or whatever, hollar back, be glad to copy/email it to you.

If you could get me the data for timing belt replacement, as well as water pump I'd really appreciate it. Not sure if you can find the wiring scheme for the fuel pump, but I have heard that one of the relays is grounded through the maf and then the oil pressure thing as noted below.

I don't believe oil pressure will prevent it from running, hell squirt some gas down the throat and see if it starts, (after checking belt of course).

Will definitely try some starting fluid and see what happens. Any way you could read the following (found off a help site) and see if the AllData corresponds?

There are two relays that power the fuel pump:
The starter relay has to have power, which provides power to the coil side (control side) of the Circuit Opening relay (the main control for the fuel pump)
The EFI Main relay is what provides the actual power to the switched side of the Circuit Opening relay.
You can power the fuel pump directly to verify that it works by providing battery power the the FP terminal of the check connector under the hood. This should only be powered temporarily to determine if the fuel pump and related harness is ok.

[JimD]

No problem pm me an email address, they will be pdf's

[dville_gt]

PM Sent

Any ideas about the fuel pump? I meant to also paste this in:

When cranking, battery power first need to pass thru the fuses and to the relay. Verify power to the relays. For safety reasons, when cranking, the Engine Control Module (ECM) will need to see ignition firing and oil pressure to engage the fuel pump. Otherwise, fuel could be pumped into an engine that is either not turning over (generating oil pressure) or it is not firing (unburrned fuel goes into the crankcase and/or out through the exhaust).

[JimD]

Email sent, I'm really not sure if the O/P or lack of will prevent starting, alot of cars do have that protection. I do know i did a 98 2.2 motor job not too long ago, rod knock and o/p light on and i backed it onto the lift w/motor running. Next thing i do on all ob2 cars is hook the scanner up(cel on or not) and see if any codes are logged, so no surprises when we start it up. Now that particular car had a cel on but it was an o2 sensor or something.
Kinda sounds like your buddy might be purchasing a new motor. Oil is cheap and those little motors won't take that kinda abuse.
Good luck and LMK if i can help you with something else.

[r**3_82gt]

For safety reasons, when cranking, the Engine Control Module (ECM) will need to see ignition firing and oil pressure to engage the fuel pump.


In bold is the part I was talking about. Actually most cars do this since they started using electric fuel pump. It doesn't take a lot of pressure, just some - it comes up realy quick when you crank it. If you get a wiring diagram, pull the relay and check the terminal that powers the fuel pump (probably X1 or X2 terminal- it depends if it's switched 12 VDC or Switched ground.). You can just use a meter to see if you are getting a signal while you crank it.

I'm not sure on this car, but if it has a distributor cap, does the rotor turn when you crank the car?

[JimD]

I'm not sure on this car, but if it has a distributor cap, does the rotor turn when you crank the car?

I doesn't, got coil packs. Pretty sure the belt snapped, oil pump is belt driven.