I unplugged the IAC and pushed down on the throttle and not much difference like maybe 100 rpm. From what I have read they only change the idle by about 100 or 2 when warmed up and the throttle is almost on the stops. I got three codes 14,41,34 but I am pretty sure I took care of the issues and have not reset the computer. The lean was my fuel pump going out, the 14 should have been fixed when the previous owner put in an all new distributor, now the 41 may still be happening but dont think it would affect idle. I am not completely against a new IAC though. Anyway to really test it? Theres just so many variables.
You sure he didn't just get some HD seats from an F150 or F250?
Yeah, I'm sure. They said he spent something like $1K having them recovered. He didn't have the H-D put on the back seats, just the tops of the front seats.
I unplugged the IAC and pushed down on the throttle and not much difference like maybe 100 rpm. From what I have read they only change the idle by about 100 or 2 when warmed up and the throttle is almost on the stops. I got three codes 14,41,34 but I am pretty sure I took care of the issues and have not reset the computer. The lean was my fuel pump going out, the 14 should have been fixed when the previous owner put in an all new distributor, now the 41 may still be happening but dont think it would affect idle. I am not completely against a new IAC though. Anyway to really test it? Theres just so many variables.
You can take it apart and clean it out with some B-12. If it's stuck, or there's a ton of carbon build up in it, that could be your culprit. There's a spring in it that gets hung up if it gets too nasty inside it.
You should also look for any vacuum leaks. I had one at the oil fill cap where the o-ring was gone and the oil cap wasn't sealing. Also had a TINY hole in the underside of the rubber piping that goes from the MAF to the throttle body. Just those two SMALL vacuum leaks was enough to make my idle go up about 500 rpms. After I fixed them I had to set the idle back down.
Yeah, I'm sure. They said he spent something like $1K having them recovered. He didn't have the H-D put on the back seats, just the tops of the front seats.
You can take it apart and clean it out with some B-12. If it's stuck, or there's a ton of carbon build up in it, that could be your culprit. There's a spring in it that gets hung up if it gets too nasty inside it.
You should also look for any vacuum leaks. I had one at the oil fill cap where the o-ring was gone and the oil cap wasn't sealing. Also had a TINY hole in the underside of the rubber piping that goes from the MAF to the throttle body. Just those two SMALL vacuum leaks was enough to make my idle go up about 500 rpms. After I fixed them I had to set the idle back down.
I'll try to get some pictures of the truck and seats tomorrow when I go to work.
-Aaron
WTF Never even thought about the oil fill cap. Hmmm yeah I am about 90 percent sure its some sneaky ass vacuum issue. Going to ease it into the garage and throw my winch on in a few "maybeee" and may look at that. 500 is about right.
I unplugged the IAC and pushed down on the throttle and not much difference like maybe 100 rpm. From what I have read they only change the idle by about 100 or 2 when warmed up and the throttle is almost on the stops. I got three codes 14,41,34 but I am pretty sure I took care of the issues and have not reset the computer. The lean was my fuel pump going out, the 14 should have been fixed when the previous owner put in an all new distributor, now the 41 may still be happening but dont think it would affect idle. I am not completely against a new IAC though. Anyway to really test it? Theres just so many variables.
You can try cleaning the IAC, just don't get the electronics wet..
I have thought about doing this. The seats in mine are nice but just not big plush squishy seats. LOL
I replaced mine with some out of an F150. Mine were pretty tore up. I'd like to find a bench seat from a late 90's F250 / 350 with the fold down middle seat. so I can get 3 up front when needed.
You can take it apart and clean it out with some B-12. If it's stuck, or there's a ton of carbon build up in it, that could be your culprit. There's a spring in it that gets hung up if it gets too nasty inside it.
I just used some carb cleaner, a tooth brush and some q tips.
on a side note, Ive got a set of warn hubs brand new in the box for a full-size bronco for sale. $50
Premiums? That's a good price. I still have a new set I bought but did not install as the auto hubs are still working well. They run right over $100 from stores.
Premiums? That's a good price. I still have a new set I bought but did not install as the auto hubs are still working well. They run right over $100 from stores.
Chili, put the manual hubs in, it's better to have it done before you need it then for them to lock up. Mine did that not too long ago and broke a bunch of shit on the inside, made it a real pain to get the auto hubs out.
OP, go with something that already has mass air, it will make your life much simpler, I did the mass air conversion on mine along with a million other things and if I could go back I'd just buy a 95/96.
for sure need to replace the autos before they break. I don't think these I have are the premiums, believe they are the black ones that list for $90 or so. 1000% upgrade from stock. these are still in the box, never opened.
Kinda chiilly but got a bunch done. Wired the relay for the lights to the high beams and with a flip of the switch its nice and blinding. Popped the ole IAC off and cleaned it. Made sure the plunger bobbed up and down, re attached and still the same. Thats a whole 20 minute job. LOL
for sure need to replace the autos before they break. I don't think these I have are the premiums, believe they are the black ones that list for $90 or so. 1000% upgrade from stock. these are still in the box, never opened.
Will they fit my 95 ? I have been wanting to upgrade them . whatcha want for em ?
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