looking to learn Windsors...looking for good links or books

[aggie97]

Well, I have decided I want to build a big motor for the race car over the next year or so and I have decided it's going to be a 408 windsor with about 10.5:1 compression to stay on pump gas, possibly EFI so I don't have to screw with a carb but might go carb to save costs, TFS 225R heads, solid roller cam of some rediculous spec that scares the common paddock rat, and a valve train built for all out hell.

Those that have been down this road, where are some good sources on the web or in paperback form that I can turn to for good info on building a motor to last and to easily make 500rwhp? This will be built for road racing and for a long life of abuse.

Thanks!

[Grape]

ex nascar stuff, can be bought for 10-12K, makes 800 all day long. complete with clutch, magnesium bell, dry sump pump, carb to pan.

[jw33]

Was going to suggest the used SB2 stuff on e-bay. Set it up to run pump gas, choke it down to 7k RPMS, and forget about it for 2-3 years.

They have 3

http://www.roushyatesparts.com/used-racing-engine-p/cku-ky-529.htm

[aggie97]

was thinking of something along these lines....

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0702phr_budget_418ci_windsor/viewall.html

and from the looks of it I am overshooting for power.

[CYAZ06]

Sent you a PM.

I would do this......oh yeah, that is what I did.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=13118

[CYAZ06]

Was going to suggest the used SB2 stuff on e-bay. Set it up to run pump gas, choke it down to 7k RPMS, and forget about it for 2-3 years.

They have 3

http://www.roushyatesparts.com/used-...cku-ky-529.htm

I like this idea as well. Good stuff.

[thesource]

You won't really need any books to build what you are looking for. Basically you want a stout short block based on a good block, forged 0 balanced crank, 6.250 lightweight rods like a Crower or something similar, a good forged piston/pin with heat coating that is as light as possible. Be sure to have all the machine work done by a shop who uses torque plates and is familiar with Ford engines.

Head wise, a smart idea is to try and find the heads either bare and have them built locally or find a builder that offers the head already built with better than original supplied valve components. Light and strong will result in more power and faster acceleration.

Camshaft, go custom once you have everything else figured out. Ed Curtis @ FTI or Bullet cams are two good choices. Again, use the best lifters you can find at the lightest weight. Use a 3/8 custom pushrod as well.

Intake wise, if going EFI, I would look at a Edelbrock Super Vic with an elbow and at least a 90 mm throttle body with a matched injector and fuel system.

The above setup should spin 7K and make well over 600 horsepower but it won't come cheap. You could probably do a LS3 type engine or a Coyote swap for less money.

[aggie97]

by the time I get one of those Nascar motors to run on pump gas I'd be 15k in and everything is special order for repairs or replacement. NO thanks.

Loran, as for the 363 goes, I can build a 408 complete for the going price on the Ford Racing motor.

What I was originally looking for was information on which year blocks to stay away from and maybe some techical sites on which blocks are better for the HP range I am looking at as well as which blocks already have lifter bores ready for the solid rollers. I have pieced together what I think I want for the entire build except for distributor, ignition and accessories and I keep finding misc little parts I am going to need to complete the swap (throttle cables, k-member mods.. etc) and the price just keeps climbing. I am starting to look back at the Coyote swap with the Boss intake and controls pack, but I am finding a lot of stories of constant stalling and engines going lean when on the power for 20-30seconds at a time and then popping due to detonation. my guess is they are running out of injector or fuel pump issues? Either way, it looks like the cheapest way to 500rwhp right now is a coyote swap with ported heads and cams. It's cheapest because of all the driveline and wiring stuff is cheaper at this point.

Honestly, I need to sell the car complete and buy a damn Howe GTA car with a carb'd LS setup.....but finding someone to buy a race car like now is pretty damn hard.

[Mach1]

by the time I get one of those Nascar motors to run on pump gas I'd be 15k in and everything is special order for repairs or replacement. NO thanks.

Loran, as for the 363 goes, I can build a 408 complete for the going price on the Ford Racing motor.

What I was originally looking for was information on which year blocks to stay away from and maybe some techical sites on which blocks are better for the HP range I am looking at as well as which blocks already have lifter bores ready for the solid rollers. I have pieced together what I think I want for the entire build except for distributor, ignition and accessories and I keep finding misc little parts I am going to need to complete the swap (throttle cables, k-member mods.. etc) and the price just keeps climbing. I am starting to look back at the Coyote swap with the Boss intake and controls pack, but I am finding a lot of stories of constant stalling and engines going lean when on the power for 20-30seconds at a time and then popping due to detonation. my guess is they are running out of injector or fuel pump issues? Either way, it looks like the cheapest way to 500rwhp right now is a coyote swap with ported heads and cams. It's cheapest because of all the driveline and wiring stuff is cheaper at this point.

Honestly, I need to sell the car complete and buy a damn Howe GTA car with a carb'd LS setup.....but finding someone to buy a race car like now is pretty damn hard.

I think that FRPP motor comes with a warranty

[aggie97]

I think that FRPP motor comes with a warranty

doubtful in a race car....but cool if it did!

[Grape]

keyway roller lifters in the nascar engines are the first component to "mile out". 600 miles for a set of $2500 lifters. If you do go the nascar route, be sure and by a truck or busch engine, you def don't wanna be messing with the flat tappet cup stuff.

[aggie97]

tooling around on the Roush/Yates site I found some info on the Daytona Prototype motors and to my disbelief, they are still running C headed 4V mod motors with a proprietary plastic intake and NOT the Coyote motor. I already have the shortblock for that combo, I just need the heads, cams and intake. they are advertising 520/400 at just 11:1 compression. I just need to do some more research on the specs and where to find that intake.

too many damn options!

[CYAZ06]

doubtful in a race car....but cool if it did!

2 year 24K mile warranty on the FRPP 363

[aggie97]

2 year 24K mile warranty on the FRPP 363

I'd love to see the paperwork on that! That would be eight or nine 24 hour races!

[CYAZ06]

I'd love to see the paperwork on that! That would be eight or nine 24 hour races!

I have the warranty....and if you look at the link I sent you....it shows it right on their website as well.