200R4 trans question....

[TexasT]

Probabaly the guys on Eden rd in kennedale? They always treat me good.

Did you go with the billet forward drum and Do the dual feed mod?
Did you drill the drain back hole in the front behind the seal out to aid in not blowing the front seal out?

Great to hear it works.

I'm in the disassembly phase with mine I want to use the raybestos blue plates and I have a big servo also will be replacing the shell with a hardened one and a hardened spline piece for the stator support.

The 700r4 filter has a bottom feed on it but one must tape off the 4th switch in the valve body to avoid a short as the filter is metal.

[TexasT]

I run my 2004r a little over full because of the pickup problems, I hope to remedy a lot of the little quirks mine has when it comes out after the new motor combo and gear swap.

Will you be doing it yourself of sending it somewhere?

[shumpertdavid]

I have a local friend that builds transmissions, motors, and rear ends. He did the 4r70w when I swapped the tko out of my mustang. Saving the transmission for last since it's a pain to get the shift points dialed in. So much of it seems dependent on HP, Torque, Gear Ration, etc. I'm pretty sure my new combo will run up @ 6k rpm but until it's running and I can see where it is going to need to be shifted I don't see the sense in breaking the trans open. My current trans is from Monster transmissions, I wasn't happy with it at all, added a transgo kit and it helped but I've never really been happy with it. Shifts were always really early, shifts were very poor with the exception of the 3-4 (it's very quick\crisp and perfect firmness). I messed with the governor a couple times, the last time I took too much weight off and it now floats the valves before it'll make the 1-2. Thought it was hitting the rev limiter so I pulled the chip out of the msd, it pulled couple hundred more rpm and then just stays there. I've got another governor but not going mess with it until after the build. I might pull the modded governor out and weld some weight back into it.

[TexasT]

I have never read or heard of anyone with good things to say about them.

I do know that the KC code valve body is the one people are using for 6k shifts though I don't know what is done to the vb/governor to get there.

What torque converter are you running/planning to run? Buick v6 engine? Turbo? Just curious.

[shumpertdavid]

At the time I didn't know my trans guy too well and didn't have a core to build so I went with what looked like the best option online (wrong but too late at that point). I'm running a, I believe, West Coast converter 10" I picked up off turbobuick.com on the cheap, originally I was using the Monster Transmissions converter supposed to be little higher stall than stock. It woke my current combo up pretty decent with the extra stall and weight reduction. It's an 82 Regal with a Carbed 3.8 and some spray. Current combo I put together right out high school in 99, @ 8.5:1, stock heads, 268 comp cam, harland sharp rockers, performer intake, holley 390, hedman headers, msd 6al, auburn diff, 4.10 richmonds, and 125 shot. I've got most everything for my new build and waiting to mock up the components to order push rods and few final parts. It will be a 10:1 motor (Ross Pistons custom), Turbo Crank & Double Dot Rods, Ported 8445 Heads, Big Intake Valves (all of 1.77 over stock 1.71s but they made a decent gain on the flow bench at higher lifts), Morrel Roller Lifters, Shaun T Roller Cam, Early Weiand Air Gap Single Plane, RJC Girdle on a 14 Bolt Block, Oiling System Mods, Modified Hooker Turbo Headers, and spraying 250 on it. Probably drop down to at least a 3.73 gear.

The cam and heads are what I assume will put me in the near 6K shifts. I'm not 100% certain of this, but with the bigger lift, duration, and 110 seperation I assume it will like the higher rpms. The intake should support it as well.

I've been rounding up parts for many years now, everytime I think I'm going to put it together I end up working on my mustang or something else comes along. If I was just starting I'd look into a set of shelf ordered turbo pistons and some kind of a blow through setup, but I think my N/A combo should perform decent.

As for the converter I have, I'll see how it feels once the motors together. I threw it in to see how the current combo liked it and it woke it up out of the hole for sure. I changed the pills on the nitrous, it should be something around 165 now. Feels good on the street but I modded the governor before I could see if it dropped the et's any. Best to date with current setup was a 9.002 1/8th mile on street tires. I launch it on the bottle since the converter was tight and it's a turd out of the hole. With the converter and nitrous change I'm certain it'll just blow the tires out now.

[aggie97]

Did you go with the billet forward drum and Do the dual feed mod?
Did you drill the drain back hole in the front behind the seal out to aid in not blowing the front seal out?

Fawk. How common is this? I could not get that goofy retainer back onto the new pump without completely destroying it and the I'd have to pull the seal that was already in the pump. Am I about to be pissed because I need to pull the trans again?

Thanks.

[TexasT]

If it ain't leaking I would save it for when you drop it again because you broke it. That retainer is the factory band aid.

Did you read the page on gnttype.org ?

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/200rebld.html

A few pointers in there.

[TexasT]

At the time I didn't know my trans guy too well and didn't have a core to build so I went with what looked like the best option online (wrong but too late at that point). I'm running a, I believe, West Coast converter 10" I picked up off turbobuick.com on the cheap, originally I was using the Monster Transmissions converter supposed to be little higher stall than stock. It woke my current combo up pretty decent with the extra stall and weight reduction. It's an 82 Regal with a Carbed 3.8 and some spray. Current combo I put together right out high school in 99, @ 8.5:1, stock heads, 268 comp cam, harland sharp rockers, performer intake, holley 390, hedman headers, msd 6al, auburn diff, 4.10 richmonds, and 125 shot. I've got most everything for my new build and waiting to mock up the components to order push rods and few final parts. It will be a 10:1 motor (Ross Pistons custom), Turbo Crank & Double Dot Rods, Ported 8445 Heads, Big Intake Valves (all of 1.77 over stock 1.71s but they made a decent gain on the flow bench at higher lifts), Morrel Roller Lifters, Shaun T Roller Cam, Early Weiand Air Gap Single Plane, RJC Girdle on a 14 Bolt Block, Oiling System Mods, Modified Hooker Turbo Headers, and spraying 250 on it. Probably drop down to at least a 3.73 gear.

The cam and heads are what I assume will put me in the near 6K shifts. I'm not 100% certain of this, but with the bigger lift, duration, and 110 seperation I assume it will like the higher rpms. The intake should support it as well.

I've been rounding up parts for many years now, everytime I think I'm going to put it together I end up working on my mustang or something else comes along. If I was just starting I'd look into a set of shelf ordered turbo pistons and some kind of a blow through setup, but I think my N/A combo should perform decent.

As for the converter I have, I'll see how it feels once the motors together. I threw it in to see how the current combo liked it and it woke it up out of the hole for sure. I changed the pills on the nitrous, it should be something around 165 now. Feels good on the street but I modded the governor before I could see if it dropped the et's any. Best to date with current setup was a 9.002 1/8th mile on street tires. I launch it on the bottle since the converter was tight and it's a turd out of the hole. With the converter and nitrous change I'm certain it'll just blow the tires out now.

4.10 gears and you are having a hard time launching? Seems like that should get the rpms up in a hurry.

Sounds like a fun little engine. Have you thought about picking up some used 86-87 turbo pieces? An intake, little injectors, turbo, intercooler and such. A new fuel tank and pump I guess on second thought might be a hassle unless you could pick up a wrecked one. There was a gn that was flipped and the owner was parting.

As far as a core for the 2004r hit the yard and look for a big rwd Cadillac. Should have an AA code on a yellow tag on the tail on the pass side. Get the tv and carb brackets too. That can be resold if you don't need it.

[shumpertdavid]

It would move out a lot better if there was more compression in the current motor, like I said the converter change woke it up a lot but it's still a turd. I get a lot of compliments on the sound at idle, and most everyone assumes it's fast because of the choppy idle and the look of the car. It does alright on the bottle I guess for what it is.

If I did anything I'd look into a fast classic setup and either modify a early style efi intake or add injector bungs to one of my current ones. It'll most likely stay carbed for ease of installation at this point.

[TexasT]

Fawk. How common is this? I could not get that goofy retainer back onto the new pump without completely destroying it and the I'd have to pull the seal that was already in the pump. Am I about to be pissed because I need to pull the trans again?

Thanks.

Midway down the page it makes reference to the drain back mod and the retainer you couldn't get back in there. also some other pointers for overhaul.Though I am not sure of the additional clutches/steels in the forward and low reverse, I have read an additional in the overdrive is good.

200 4r tips

[shumpertdavid]

I have that link put back along with some other brf info for when mine goes on the bench, there's a lot of good info out there for these, and a lot of big hp guys running them.

[TexasT]

the best printed thing I have come across is the ck manual. Definitely worth the $65.

manual

[shumpertdavid]

I'll have to look into the manual. I'd like to find some insight on the governor\shift point setup to eliminate as much of the pan pulling as possible. My baumann controller has made me very lazy on the mustang, it's so easy to drag the graph and change shift points.

[TexasT]

I'll have to look into the manual. I'd like to find some insight on the governor\shift point setup to eliminate as much of the pan pulling as possible. My baumann controller has made me very lazy on the mustang, it's so easy to drag the graph and change shift points.

http://atraonline.com/gears/1999/1999-07/gjul99p16.htm

Dropping the pan is just part of the fun with the 2004r. Trial and error as the vb/gov combos are different and react as such.