200R4 trans question....

[Woods Racing Transmission]

Pull the pan and have a look. At this point what could it hurt. It may be a simple fix. Even if the forward drum cracked or stripped it may not be to costly just to upgrade that part. 2004R's are great transmissions and will hold your power and more if done correctly.

[aggie97]

Pull the pan and have a look. At this point what could it hurt. It may be a simple fix. Even if the forward drum cracked or stripped it may not be to costly just to upgrade that part. 2004R's are great transmissions and will hold your power and more if done correctly.

I'm dropping the pan probably sometime saturday and will take a look. The linkage and everything looks/feels good from the outside.

I hope it's what you mentioned about the internal linkage. That would be cheap, but overall I am worried about the longevity after reading the numerous blown up trans stories on the TB site.

[shumpertdavid]

I'm not going to be any help on a power\torque guesstimate. My regal is a carbed n\a, juiced six. I've got to get my new engine combo built, installed, pick a new gear ratio (probably 3.73) and then build the trans and modify the shift point for my new power range. I'm running a Monster Transmission build 2004r now (EatMyShift.com I believe), I've not been happy with it at all. The shift quality was horrible, we improved it some with a transgo kit, I picked up a converter a while back off the TB site and have been happy with it's performance for the $ spent. I wouldn't recommend buying someones "built or stage trans". Let a reputable local build you a trans. My trans guy has pulled down several "stage ?" or "level ?" transmissions to find that the owner purchased a more or less stock built unit with a shift improvement kit and some stacked clutches. I like knowing that the parts I'm told I'm being sold are being put in. Spend the money on a good converter if you have to pull the trans down, it'll be well worth it (anti ballooning plates, billet hub, possible multi disc lockup), also having one custom built to your application (cam, turbo mods, boost) can net you better performance.

Sadly this is my only advice to offer. I hope Woods is correct and it's just the linkage pin problems.

[aggie97]

I was looking at an Extreme Automatics unit as they are recommended on the TB sites. The builder down in Houston that Woods recommended is a little high unless their price is R&R and not a carryout...

We have a nice converter but cannot identify it at all. It has the billet hub as you mentioned, I just wish I could find out what it is. there are very few markings on it.

I hope to have it on the lift at our shop instead of jackstands here at the house but I need to move cars around for that. Once it's on the lift, I can easily drop the pan with out too much mess and go from there. If it has to come out, it will be easier to do there than at home for sure.

<----too many cars and not enough space or time to make them all 100%!!!

After reading some articles on GM hightech performance site about a nearly stock 87 GN and they made 278/440 at the wheels, with the bigger turbo, GN1 aluminum heads and ported intake, down pipe and exhaust, cam and Turbo Tweaks tune, I think the car is probably putting down 350/500 pretty easily. It flat rolls out once it's in boost and that is only at 15lbs. I want to go to 18 and have enough fuel for it but the trans will need to be built.

[Woods Racing Transmission]

I was looking at an Extreme Automatics unit as they are recommended on the TB sites. The builder down in Houston that Woods recommended is a little high unless their price is R&R and not a carryout...

If the tranny worked flawlessly like you stated then it should be a simple fix. Take your tranny to Extreme Automatics or another shop that works on performance autos. It will be much cheaper to fix yours than to get a new one. Remember you get what you pay for. Mike is very knowledgeable about 2004r's and that knowledge will cost you. Its always better to work with a local person if you can.

[aggie97]

If the tranny worked flawlessly like you stated then it should be a simple fix. Take your tranny to Extreme Automatics or another shop that works on performance autos. It will be much cheaper to fix yours than to get a new one. Remember you get what you pay for. Mike is very knowledgeable about 2004r's and that knowledge will cost you. Its always better to work with a local person if you can.

Linkage was fine. No metal at all in the pan. Likely something internal.

[greenbullitt]

I have a local guy that can do the Trans and converter if you're interested. on me if you'd like his info.

[aggie97]

I have a local guy that can do the Trans and converter if you're interested. on me if you'd like his info.

I am thinking it's the pump or input shaft. I may try and see if I can buy a billet shaft and upgraded pump and maybe the 4340 forward drum. If it's cheap enough, I might try this work myself as I have wanted to learn automatics for YEARS. If it's only saving a few hundred bucks, I'll go to a builder. Either way, I want to open the front of it to see what's happened.

[aggie97]

Pulled the transmission finally. Input shaft ok. No metal anywhere but I pulled the front seal and can see what looks like busted vanes in the pump. Maybe just lost the pump? Trying to figure out how to get the pump out and finish checking stuff. May get crazy and try tearing it apart if I can find a book or video.

[aggie97]

update....

finally pulled the front pump and took it apart. It messed up the pump pretty good and may have messed up the TC slots where it interfaces the pump. May have to weld that area and grind back square. Everything else looks fine but the TC internals seem like they rattle around a lot. Trans doesn't have the upgraded drum or input shaft and I am thinking about doing those while it's a apart. New 13 vane pump will be ordered too.

guts


bad slot in TC


good side in TC

[shumpertdavid]

That hub is hardened I'm pretty sure, is let a converter company repair it.

[aggie97]

That hub is hardened I'm pretty sure, is let a converter company repair it.

got a recommendation?

Thanks!

[TexasT]

Looks like the pump rings weren't hardened. I'm on my phone so I can't really see but looks like a ten game unit so it has been into. I'm not sure about local for you but I use a place in kennedale. Phoenix in weatherford could probably fix you up or call century and see if he will tell you who he uses. Should be some places around Houston as with any big city but I wouldn't know who to trust down there.
Also you might try Jakes Performance in Sanger.

Did you get it fixed up?
I'd go with a GM ten vane setup and a pair of hardened rings. If the cavity isn't too Goofed up you might get by with it. Also if you are spending some money a billet forward drum is or should be on everyone's to do list.

Let us know how you get it going.

[aggie97]

Looks like the pump rings weren't hardened. I'm on my phone so I can't really see but looks like a ten game unit so it has been into. I'm not sure about local for you but I use a place in kennedale. Phoenix in weatherford could probably fix you up or call century and see if he will tell you who he uses. Should be some places around Houston as with any big city but I wouldn't know who to trust down there.
Also you might try Jakes Performance in Sanger.

Did you get it fixed up?
I'd go with a GM ten vane setup and a pair of hardened rings. If the cavity isn't too Goofed up you might get by with it. Also if you are spending some money a billet forward drum is or should be on everyone's to do list.

Let us know how you get it going.

I got it together and drove it on sunday. I bought an upgraded pump with billet internals from CKperformance, a shift re-calibration kit and a deep pan with modified pickup/filter. Seems to work ok but the damn pan has 3 leaks I need to weld up. I had the TC gone through and rebuilt by a shop in Kennedale. Great job and price. 1 day turn around. Had a couple chewed up vanes. This was my first time into an Auto...and it works. I'm happy so far but have to drop the pan and fix the leaks. going to cross my fingers for now as I didn't want to drop $2500+ in the rebuild. I think I am right around $1000 right now. I think I figured out what happened....I think. Filter/pickup was in the front of the pan and draws from the top of the filter. Car accelerates hard and I think the pickup ran dry, then suddenly got fluid at the 1-2 shift and hammered the pump and shattered the gears. The new pan is about 1.5" deeper and has a screen the picks up from the bottom and is at the far back of the pan. no way it can run dry. I'm crossing my fingers it doesn't break again but I don't think I will be driving it much any more. trying to concentrate on upgrading the engine in the mustang over the off season.

[shumpertdavid]

I run my 2004r a little over full because of the pickup problems, I hope to remedy a lot of the little quirks mine has when it comes out after the new motor combo and gear swap.