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  • #76
    Originally posted by Big Thumper View Post
    90% of people with lowered F-body's dont see either. I sure do when I drive their car and it hits bumps in the road and it darts around like a wet noodle.

    If they are not in synch with each other, they fight each other.
    ya, would probably be much more prevalent if i wasn't running skinnies on it. looking forward to seeing how much better it acts with the bump steer and stiffer springs.

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    • #77
      Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
      I am going to order a kit, but I am still having trouble seeing how this would cause the suspension to bind however. Just trying to visualize, seems like the wheels would turn in or out before the suspension would bind.
      The inner tie rod end only has so much vertical movement before it binds at the rack....and after reading more....I see grape and others pointed it out too....

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      • #78
        Originally posted by aggie97 View Post
        The inner tie rod end only has so much vertical movement before it binds at the rack....and after reading more....I see grape and others pointed it out too....
        They did, I just didn't understand that the bind was happening at the inner tie rod, for some reason I was stuck imagining it at the outer.

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        • #79
          Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
          They did, I just didn't understand that the bind was happening at the inner tie rod, for some reason I was stuck imagining it at the outer.
          unless the rack is really new, it's a stretch becuase the inners loosen up a lot over time. Manual rack may be a little different but you never know. The sounds and driveability you described earlier in the thread makes me think the strut is Mis-marked and is actually for an SN95 and is too long. see if you can find a fox strut and compare them to be sure. Would not be the first time a vendor mis-labeled a part and caused problems.

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          • #80


            doesn't really look like the tie rod and the control arm are at much different of an angle and i am definitely not maxing out the tie rod movement (pulled the ends to see and they go WAY up).

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            • #81
              Well, drop the tie rods off and push up and down on it. Takes an entire 10 minutes and it's almost free except for the $.10 cotter pin. Maybe you can pick up a pair of used pins or make some out of paperclips to save some money. Zip-ties are cheap too...

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              • #82
                Originally posted by jw33 View Post
                Well, drop the tie rods off and push up and down on it. Takes an entire 10 minutes and it's almost free except for the $.10 cotter pin. Maybe you can pick up a pair of used pins or make some out of paperclips to save some money. Zip-ties are cheap too...
                Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
                (pulled the ends to see and they go WAY up).
                Did this tonight, they have a lot more movement then the car uses.

                Didn't change the front end being tight.

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                • #83
                  that control arm at ride height is at a retarded amount of angle. you need to get some ball joints from http://www.howeracing.com/p-7943-how...oog-k8259.aspx so you can adjust the pin height of the ball joint.
                  pinto gt with wood trim

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                  • #84
                    Originally posted by Grape View Post
                    that control arm at ride height is at a retarded amount of angle. you need to get some ball joints from http://www.howeracing.com/p-7943-how...oog-k8259.aspx so you can adjust the pin height of the ball joint.
                    How do those work?

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                    • #85
                      Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
                      How do those work?
                      you can order different length pins to change the distance from the taper to the center axis of the ball. it's primary use is to adjust roll centers and spindle heights on race cars. get in touch with somebody up there, then send the picture you last posted and say "help me"
                      pinto gt with wood trim

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                      • #86
                        Originally posted by Grape View Post
                        that control arm at ride height is at a retarded amount of angle. you need to get some ball joints from http://www.howeracing.com/p-7943-how...oog-k8259.aspx so you can adjust the pin height of the ball joint.
                        Thanks for that link....I need a pair of those for my car after having to get rid of the drop spindles.

                        And after thinking about it....the OP needs to buy my drop spindles to help fix his problem!

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                        • #87
                          Originally posted by aggie97 View Post
                          Thanks for that link....I need a pair of those for my car after having to get rid of the drop spindles.

                          And after thinking about it....the OP needs to buy my drop spindles to help fix his problem!
                          you might have legality issues in your class with those.
                          pinto gt with wood trim

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                          • #88
                            Originally posted by Grape View Post
                            you might have legality issues in your class with those.
                            In CMC yes....in AI/ST suspension is 100% open. Not a problem although in CMC I doubt anyone would know the difference or to even look.

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                            • #89
                              Saw your car at the Fast and Furious GTG in Arlington last night Dville. Looked slow

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                              • #90
                                Originally posted by slownbmta View Post
                                Saw your car at the Fast and Furious GTG in Arlington last night Dville. Looked slow
                                it's because the front tires are pointed in all sorts of fucked up directions.
                                pinto gt with wood trim

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