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2000 V6 mustang will not start

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  • 2000 V6 mustang will not start

    12V at battery, car will crank, gauges turn on, 8V at the coil pack harness, fuel at schrader valve. Some measurements are on the edge of printed specs for coil pack.
    Book says voltage should be 12V at coil pack harness.
    What to look for next? Why low voltage at coil pack plug? PCM?

  • #2
    CPS (crank position sensor) sometimes you can unplug/plug it back im and it will start. Or.even cleaning it will make it start.
    Originally posted by Silverback
    Look all you want, she can't find anyone else who treats her as bad as I do, and I keep her self esteem so low, she wouldn't think twice about going anywhere else.

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    • #3
      crank trigger or cam sensor since its 12 yrs old it wouldnt hurt to replace both

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      • #4
        X2 on both.

        Not sure if cleaning would do anything unless it was really greasy with debris.

        If the PCM doesn't get a signal from the crank sensor it won't throw spark, some cars that holds true for the cam sensor, but most of the time it will cause misfiring instead. < from what Ive been through on 5L explorers. Which is the same system as the 3.8 v6.

        320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

        DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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        • #5
          Thanks for the tips. I'll try those next.

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          • #6
            Before throwing parts at it, cover a few basics first. If the crank sensor signal is not present at the pcm, the check engine light will illuminate during cranking, otherwise it should remain off. Also, is the theft light blinking when it's not starting?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by shumpertdavid View Post
              Before throwing parts at it, cover a few basics first. If the crank sensor signal is not present at the pcm, the check engine light will illuminate during cranking, otherwise it should remain off. Also, is the theft light blinking when it's not starting?
              He wouldn't have fuel pressure if the theft light was blinking. I see where your going with maybe thinking the PATS had something to do with it it not starting.

              I had a friend with a 01GT and it wouldn't start, he had no fuel pressure and he replaced the pump in the tank, turns out it was not the pump. His theft light was blinking, he didnt use the FOB to open the car he just used the backup key with no FOB, the PATS tripped and shut down FP and Spark. I told him to go get the orginal key/FOB and it fired right up.
              Originally posted by Silverback
              Look all you want, she can't find anyone else who treats her as bad as I do, and I keep her self esteem so low, she wouldn't think twice about going anywhere else.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Rick Modena View Post
                He wouldn't have fuel pressure if the theft light was blinking. I see where your going with maybe thinking the PATS had something to do with it it not starting.

                I had a friend with a 01GT and it wouldn't start, he had no fuel pressure and he replaced the pump in the tank, turns out it was not the pump. His theft light was blinking, he didnt use the FOB to open the car he just used the backup key with no FOB, the PATS tripped and shut down FP and Spark. I told him to go get the orginal key/FOB and it fired right up.
                I knew it would shut the injectors down, I was not aware that the fuel pump would not run. I assumed it would prime as normal.

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                • #9
                  Well it was in the back of my mind but I should have checked it first. Some Clifford G4 series of alarms have starter, ignition, and wireless fuel kills. I have never seen a fuel kill fail but I have seen the ignition kill fail multiple times especially on the Intelliguard 8000 (this car has an Avant Guard IV). Anyway, the starter and ignition wires are run through the alarm brain and the relays are normally open. When the ignition kill fails, it is open or partially open and low/no voltage is delivered to the ignition circuit. When there is no/really low voltage, it is easy to spot the problem because the gauges do not turn on when you turn on the key. Since the voltage is only 4V down, everything was turning on so I did not check it. Bypassed the ignition kill and it fired right up. The first thing I checked was fuel pressure at the rail. I had none. After seeing this on my Cobra and this car having 50K more than mine, it was easy to say "fuel pump". After wrestling with the fuel pump and filter in the street in front of my house, I was really not happy that this car had pressure at the rail but would still not start. Whoever designed "quick disconnects" for fuel systems should be stabbed in the eye.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by EW View Post
                    Whoever designed "quick disconnects" for fuel systems should be stabbed in the eye.
                    lol! I hear ya on that Eric. When I changed the fuel filter on my sons Lightning it took me about 2hrs fucking with those 'quick disconnects', it was not a pleasant experiance.
                    Originally posted by Silverback
                    Look all you want, she can't find anyone else who treats her as bad as I do, and I keep her self esteem so low, she wouldn't think twice about going anywhere else.

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                    • #11
                      Another vote here against those "quick disconnects".

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                      • #12
                        I own numerous different styles of quick disconnect tools, like probably 35-40 for a\c, fuel, oil, and trans lines. Still have stuff that I can't undo. For the most part the domestic stuff works pretty good. On a lot of the ford trucks, I'll cut the tube right at the fuel filter so I can pull the line down and better access the fittings.

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