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  • #31
    Have you checked temp drop across the radiator? See what the temps are at inlet and outlet.

    Also have you tried a fox aluminum radiator?

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Blackpony View Post
      Have you checked temp drop across the radiator? See what the temps are at inlet and outlet.

      Also have you tried a fox aluminum radiator?
      Ive been wondering about coolant temp difference as well.
      "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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      • #33
        admit defeat and take it to a professional??

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        • #34
          FWIW my lsx car will run cool all day long in the heat moving or sitting still on 100F+ days. I actually had to turn the fans on later to get it to stay above 200. No A/C or turbo though. All stock ls2 cooling components and stock 87-93 body parts.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by Baron View Post
            i hate to ask, but have you checked for a blown head gasket?
            Ive been thinking this the whole time...


            dville_gt, hope you resolve this issue but i would definitely do a gas test....


            good luck!

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            • #36
              is your hotside coated? Have you tried just a large 2 or 3 core single pass radiator?

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              • #37
                Originally posted by black50 View Post
                is your hotside coated? Have you tried just a large 2 or 3 core single pass radiator?
                It looks like he has tried it all. I really hope you get it figured out.

                I forget what it ran temp wise before the boom bitch.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
                  Okay. This is getting ridiculous now.

                  Things I've tried (with no luck) to get my turbo lsx foxbody to run cool.
                  New waterpump
                  New thermostat (I've now tried 160, 187, no thermo)
                  Huge dual pass radiator with 3.8 Taurus fan
                  Moved trans cooler away from intercooler.
                  Installed pusher fan in front of intercooler
                  Installed remote filler neck at highest point in system
                  Heat wrapped the entire hot side of the turbo kit (including downpipe)
                  Made a turbo heat shield for the exhaust housing
                  Tried to burp the system every way I can think of (even bought a special funnel)
                  And I am probably missing a bunch of shit I've done in between.

                  Still won't run cool. Still steady cruises up to 230* and above with the a/c on and can barely maintain high 220's with the a/c off.

                  Only odd thing I've noticed throughout this process of possible interest is that the inside of cross over pipes is clean like new. It was like this when I pulled it off for the motor as well, but I kind of found it odd that in 800+ miles no carbon build up in the cross over pipes. Maybe because the pipes get so hot that the carbon gets baked off?

                  Also, I tried burping the air out with my radiator funnel and it started pushing water up and up (I was waiting for the the thermo to open), and then it appeared to start boiling over (fairly dramatically) all over the place. According the gauge it was only around 190* when this happened.

                  So I believe I've taken everyone's opinion, spent a couple of hundred bucks, and have accomplished jack shit. Ah, so much fun.
                  This makes me think you are getting compression into the coolant. That, or maybe flow is backwards?
                  "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by Baron View Post
                    This makes me think you are getting compression into the coolant. That, or maybe flow is backwards?
                    I tried burping the air out with my radiator funnel and it started pushing water up and up

                    I run into this a lot with customer cars, it sounds pretty normal. Before the thermostat opens they seem to try to push water out. The thermostat will open, level drops, top the system off, and when the cooler water circulating causes the thermostat to begin to close it will try to push water out again.

                    The block test wouldn't hurt just to cover yourself. Have you tried adding a little fuel to see if it'll bring the temps down some. If it's on the lean side I'd expect coolant temps to go up.

                    Also x2 on the radiator temp drop from inlet to outlet. You should be seeing a decent difference, if not your radiator is not efficient or it's suffering from too much restriction infront of it.

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                    • #40
                      Id help you but you are a fucking prick. I hope it blows up on you.

                      Btw its in the tune.

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                      • #41
                        ^wow....

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                        • #42
                          Lol, give it some more timing at no/light load
                          http://www.truthcontest.com/entries/...iversal-truth/

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by Sam88gta1 View Post
                            Id help you but you are a fucking prick. I hope it blows up on you.

                            Btw its in the tune.
                            Interested in being a VIP member and donating to the site? Click here http://dfwmustangs.net/forums/payments.php

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                            • #44
                              can't spin an lsx waterpump backwards, the pulley meets up with the smooth side of the belt and no matter how you route it it is going to spin the correct direction.

                              i've tried adding fuel with no difference. i'm actually running it around 13.7-14:1 right now for that exact reason.

                              it is super hard to get a reading on the inlet vs. outlet of the radiator. since it is all aluminum and the inlet and outlet are on the same side it always reads funky with my IR thermo.

                              tried giving it more and less timing at idle/low load, makes little or no difference that i can tell. going to put a degree wheel on it and see if the cam timing is off, but it runs well so i'm less the optimistic.

                              thanks for the input, i'm getting tired of messing with it.

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by Cooter View Post
                                Lol, give it some more timing at no/light load
                                I concur.
                                Full time ninja editor.

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