One thing you haven't tried....It could be the car developing a severe allergic reaction to the LSx! Ditch the LSx and put a Ford motor back in the car. If the problem goes away, then you know for next time...
"Laws that forbid the carrying of arms...disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes...Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man." - Thomas Jefferson, 1776
Id never trust a cam without degreeing, based on my machinests and builders experiences, unless it was like a stock purpose build and then id still probably check it. I doubt that a vacuum fill will net you any different results given all the different ways youve filled the system at this point. The only thing I've wondered about is.the dual pass radiator. This is only because if the second pass is stacked behind the first pass then its being cooled by heated air coming through front section. If its dual pass where it flows across the top or.bottom half then loops to flow across the opposite half then id assume its fine. I would also agree that the extra thickness added by the heat exchanger could still be a restriction in flow but i dont see a positive way around that without going to aliquid to air setup.
cam was run in a buddies car, then we traded when i went turbo. he never had a problem with it and i had it in my car before the motor without issue so i figured it would be fine.
the dual pass runs it across the top, then across the bottom.
Sounds like you've done almost everything there is to do save for the combustion gas check. Might be far fetched but it could be a clogged water jacket somewhere. I've only clicked on your threads concerning this issue sporadically but it sounds exactly like what I went through with my car. I did pretty much everything you've done to no avail. It overheated as I pulled into work one morning and it spewed its guts. Towed it home and I haven't messed with it since. I pretty much came to the conclusion(without testing) that it's a warped head. Warped enough to cause overheating but not enough to show water in the oil sys.
block was vatted twice (once before, once after machining). don't see any trash in the coolant when i drain it.
Regardless, you need to put a water vapor system on it too.
head gaskets were double checked (they have FRONT written on them) plus i made sure they lined up with the water jackets (since the drivers one is technically upside down when installed correctly.
ARP fasteners will have different torque specs for threads lubricated with moly versus lubed with 30w engine oil. 80lbs sounds about right with engine oil.
The crossover pipe in an exhaust system doesn't usually have exhaust gases crossing over, it just allows pressure to balance in the two tubes. If there is a significant restriction in the exhaust, you may get some exhaust passing through but that would be weird.
Dude, this has been a serious kick in the junk. I would try to get on the phone with someone that has built a high-HP turbo/intercooled street driven LS and see if they have fought the same issues for their recommendations. It has to be something straightforward.
Remind me again your underhood turbo plumbing situation. I'm starting to think that it is keeping exhaust heat in the engine compartment and the cooling system just can't deal with it. You have wrapped the headers and hot side? Turbo blanket(s)?
When the government pays, the government controls.
Do you have a air dam on your car to force air up into the radiator?
Let the car idle, does it heat up? If no then you have an airflow problem with the radiator. Make sure you have a good airdam even the front of your radiator to force the air up into it
Have you posted something on Corral about this? I'm not a big fan of the site in general, but it's a way to reach the "masses" (nation-wide) and maybe find someone with similar issues.
block was vatted twice (once before, once after machining). don't see any trash in the coolant when i drain it.
shit when i worked at the machine shop i had to vat a a couple blocks multiple times before machining one was a old desoto block that had alot of crud and build up in it another i had to do a iron block 6.0 multiple times but it was left out in the rain for awhile i would blow the block out multiple times before i would even take it to the the machine work area.
shit when i worked at the machine shop i had to vat a a couple blocks multiple times before machining one was a old desoto block that had alot of crud and build up in it another i had to do a iron block 6.0 multiple times but it was left out in the rain for awhile i would blow the block out multiple times before i would even take it to the the machine work area.
my block was super clean when it was dropped off (rode there in the trunk of my bmw)
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