Still effin running hot

[dville_gt]

Okay. This is getting ridiculous now.

Things I've tried (with no luck) to get my turbo lsx foxbody to run cool.
New waterpump
New thermostat (I've now tried 160, 187, no thermo)
Huge dual pass radiator with 3.8 Taurus fan
Moved trans cooler away from intercooler.
Installed pusher fan in front of intercooler
Installed remote filler neck at highest point in system
Heat wrapped the entire hot side of the turbo kit (including downpipe)
Made a turbo heat shield for the exhaust housing
Tried to burp the system every way I can think of (even bought a special funnel)
And I am probably missing a bunch of shit I've done in between.

Still won't run cool. Still steady cruises up to 230* and above with the a/c on and can barely maintain high 220's with the a/c off.

Only odd thing I've noticed throughout this process of possible interest is that the inside of cross over pipes is clean like new. It was like this when I pulled it off for the motor as well, but I kind of found it odd that in 800+ miles no carbon build up in the cross over pipes. Maybe because the pipes get so hot that the carbon gets baked off?

Also, I tried burping the air out with my radiator funnel and it started pushing water up and up (I was waiting for the the thermo to open), and then it appeared to start boiling over (fairly dramatically) all over the place. According the gauge it was only around 190* when this happened.

So I believe I've taken everyone's opinion, spent a couple of hundred bucks, and have accomplished jack shit. Ah, so much fun.

[Baron Von Crowder]

i hate to ask, but have you checked for a blown head gasket?

[dville_gt]

I've pressure tested hot and cold, oil and coolant and plugs look normal. Haven't done the combustion gas test however. Head gaskets are brand new ls9 gaskets with arp head bolts torqued to 80ftlbs.

[KBScobravert]

Have you thought of taking the intercooler out and replacing it with a straight pipe? Maybe there is still too much restriction in front of the radiator for it to function properly.

This only started after the new build right?

[john98gt]

I've pressure tested hot and cold, oil and coolant and plugs look normal. Haven't done the combustion gas test however. Head gaskets are brand new ls9 gaskets with arp head bolts torqued to 80ftlbs.

only 80ft lb???

[blackedv]

have u tried an airlift purge on the system yet to make sure of no air? it hooks up to an air compressor and pulls a vacuum on the cooling system to make sure there are no air pockets. might give that a shot

[fordracing19]

Might send Sam a pm. Could be in the tune.
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

[dville_gt]

only 80ft lb???

ya, that is arp's spec on them, they are studs btw, i wrote bolts.

[91cavgt]

Did you do a cam swap? I've seen a motor run hot regardless of what the owner did to solve the problem to no avail. He found out the cam was out of time slightly causing too much heat to be retained. Once the cam was retimed, coolant temps were fine.


My old boss would take busses for a test drive that we did cooling system work to. He would drive it with his right foot on the floor till either the computer shut the motor off due to too high coolant temps, or the thermostat would open. I rode with him once when the coolant temp gauge pegged, the computer shut the motor off, he just restarted it and put his foot into it again.

[slim87gt]

only 80ft lb???

Mine are 110 on a nitrous motor

[dville_gt]

Did you do a cam swap? I've seen a motor run hot regardless of what the owner did to solve the problem to no avail. He found out the cam was out of time slightly causing too much heat to be retained. Once the cam was retimed, coolant temps were fine.

Dan and I were just talking about this exact thing. We are going to put a degree wheel and dial indicator on it and see what the actual timing is. I stabbed it straight up (it's a comp grind), but who knows, could be a loose chain or maybe it was ground off. I ran this cam before the motor (although it wasn't nearly as hot out then).

[Mach1]

Mine are 110 on a nitrous motor

Tiny ls1 head bolts don't like much torque

You try doing a vac fill of the coolant system?

[shumpertdavid]

Dan and I were just talking about this exact thing. We are going to put a degree wheel and dial indicator on it and see what the actual timing is. I stabbed it straight up (it's a comp grind), but who knows, could be a loose chain or maybe it was ground off. I ran this cam before the motor (although it wasn't nearly as hot out then).

Id never trust a cam without degreeing, based on my machinests and builders experiences, unless it was like a stock purpose build and then id still probably check it. I doubt that a vacuum fill will net you any different results given all the different ways youve filled the system at this point. The only thing I've wondered about is.the dual pass radiator. This is only because if the second pass is stacked behind the first pass then its being cooled by heated air coming through front section. If its dual pass where it flows across the top or.bottom half then loops to flow across the opposite half then id assume its fine. I would also agree that the extra thickness added by the heat exchanger could still be a restriction in flow but i dont see a positive way around that without going to aliquid to air setup.

[JC316]

Probably a stupid question, but is the temperature gauge accurate?

[projectPONY]

Sounds like you've done almost everything there is to do save for the combustion gas check. Might be far fetched but it could be a clogged water jacket somewhere. I've only clicked on your threads concerning this issue sporadically but it sounds exactly like what I went through with my car. I did pretty much everything you've done to no avail. It overheated as I pulled into work one morning and it spewed its guts. Towed it home and I haven't messed with it since. I pretty much came to the conclusion(without testing) that it's a warped head. Warped enough to cause overheating but not enough to show water in the oil sys.


sent from an htc EVO, the iCrap killer.