Another brake question!

[91CoupeMike]

If it's not vibrations it's brakes!

Ok, after doing the reading and conversing with fellow stangers, I'm going to stay 4 lug because I don't see enough gain right now to justify the expenses of a 5 lug swap.

For 200-300 I could do the swap, have mark 7 rotors with ranger drums. Easy and cheap but pointless for the wheel I want to go with.

For 2000-3000 I could do the 03 cobra brakes all the way around. But that's ALOT of money for a part time Autozoner to drop on brakes for a 200hp car. Plus going with 95 spindles will make the front track width to wide for my liking. I do not want the wheel/tire to sit outside the fender.

So, that being said.. Thanks for all the information so far and thanks for the help. Now I ask a few more questions.

When using the factory hub rotor set up, would it be of best interest to stay with a stock style over a drilled, slotted rotor? Also would using a higher quality brake fluid and a proportion valve make the biggest differance along with a good set of hawk pads?

Seems as if the rotor is too small already to take Material away for the drill/slot process and it would warp faster? - just a theory.

Post up please! And also what master cyl and booster combo would perform best with stock brakes? stock?

Thanks!

[85turbocoupe]

Leave the mc and booster alone unless they need replacing. Regular blank rotors on the front, but again I'd only replace if they're worn. Same with the drums. Install the kit in the link below and flush all the old fluid out with a fresh bleed. About the best you're gonna get with stock brakes. On the fluid I use the regular Motorcraft High Performance DOT3 which has worked fine for me.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=49_136_141&products_id=676

[JimD]

Just leave the shit stock.

[zemog]

if you're gonna continue to "jump" railroad tracks at 120 or 140 i wont really matter will it!!

[bpawl]

ive read that replacing the stock rubber lines with steel braided helps alot but I havent done it. Im starting to agree with jimD's theory, the stock brakes work fine as long as the system is correct. I just want five lug on mine for the wheel selection but im not gonna dump alot of cash to do it cause im a cheap ass.

[CRASH]

Mike, you can do the 5 lug swap for waaaayyyyyy cheaper than that and have good brakes.

I bought the entire brake system, minus axles, out of a wrecked '94 GT a few years ago for $250. That was brake booster, master cylinder, and ALL of the front and rear brakes. I put it all on a '91 coupe I had and ran '98 Cobra wheels on it. Looked goooood !

The '94-95 spindles don't change the track width either. The '96+ ones do.

With all that said, my green car has 11" '87-93 rotors with 73mm SVO calipers up front with stainless lines. It has a '93 Cobra master cylinder and brake booster, with a Wilwood porportioning valve. Still has all of the stock drums out back. It stops really good and doesn't seem to have any fade.

-Aaron

[Vertnut]

Just leave the shit stock.

Right here. Wait until you can REALLY do it properly.

[Dacotua]

Mike, you can do the 5 lug swap for waaaayyyyyy cheaper than that and have good brakes.

I bought the entire brake system, minus axles, out of a wrecked '94 GT a few years ago for $250. That was brake booster, master cylinder, and ALL of the front and rear brakes. I put it all on a '91 coupe I had and ran '98 Cobra wheels on it. Looked goooood !

The '94-95 spindles don't change the track width either. The '96+ ones do.

With all that said, my green car has 11" '87-93 rotors with 73mm SVO calipers up front with stainless lines. It has a '93 Cobra master cylinder and brake booster, with a Wilwood porportioning valve. Still has all of the stock drums out back. It stops really good and doesn't seem to have any fade.

-Aaron

Actually I've done a lot of 94/95 spindle changes on fox cars, it actually does change the track width of the front to be slightly wider. Like 1/4" each side.

Now the 96-98 spindles change it to like 1/2" each side and the 99+ spindles change it to like 5/8" each side.


-----


Start buying all the 94/95 spindles, brakes, etc.. NOW slowly. Overtime you'll have the complete system and its a LOT better than the factory fox crap.

When I did my 88 mustang to the 04 cobra brakes, it ended up costing me around $2000.00 (That was buying everything new and that included the new wheels and tires). I'd recommend 94/95 front spindles with 94/95 rear axles in the rear with the correct brake brackets. (It won't stick out of your fenders with the right wheels).

Might sound like a lot, but it was worth it to me. I could actually feel confident that my car was going to stop when I wanted it to.

Now if you want improvement to the stock system that you have, put the 73mm calipers up front, put the 93 cobra rear disc brakes (Or turbocoupe) brakes on the rear (Disc). that helps a ton.

[jw33]

No one make the old 4-lug rotors in out of any decent material anymore. Only chinese and mexican shit out there. Every once in a while you can find the Canada made rotor. Just get stock plain rotors, remove the brake fluid res. and clean it out, flush out the system with some good fluid, Hawk pads, and adjust the rears correctly. Follow the bedding procedure and buy some wheel cleaner because the hawks work great, but leave a lot of dust behind. FWIW I just bought a '03-04 cobra front brake setup (spindles, lines, rotors, calipers, pads) for $350 and a complete rear disc axle with master cylinder and booster for $50....

[butt86]

FWIW the change in front width is not very much at all, it certainly wont stick the wheels out past your fenders, here is the swap i did with 98 spindles/control arms, and 99+ PBR brakes, this is the only way i would do another car....

[Gargamel]

Leave the mc and booster alone unless they need replacing. Regular blank rotors on the front, but again I'd only replace if they're worn. Same with the drums. Install the kit in the link below and flush all the old fluid out with a fresh bleed. About the best you're gonna get with stock brakes. On the fluid I use the regular Motorcraft High Performance DOT3 which has worked fine for me.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=676

^^^^
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