I've seen elec. water pumps straight from the factory that had the screw loose that holds the wheel on
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Can't keep this SOB cool :(
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Do something crazy and move it to the back of the car. I read an article years ago about a guy that built custom bikes moving the radiators to the rear of the bikes. He couldnt get them to warm up after that. Put you a fuel cell in the trunk and mount your new bigger radiator where the old tank was with some sort of air deflectors. Plumb it down the frame rails with hard tubes and be done with it. Not only would it be trick but you would free up some room. I was going to twin turbo a 73 Vette I had and this was what I was going to do.
Just thinking outside of the box man. Alot of guys that build offroad trucks with motor swaps put them in the bed and it makes all the difference int he world. Think about how bad a design it is to run air over the motor after it has ran thru a radiator. Do it and be done with it.Whos your Daddy?
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I'd wrap all the hot side first and see what that does. With my piping all wrapped it doesn't even get hot under the hood of my car at all. I don't have AC but my temps never get above 185-195 in the hottest part of the day.03 Dark Shadow Grey Mach1
"SMOKEY"
"SLOW STREET CAR"
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does it get hot with the a/c off? if not you might look for a clog in the a/c system not allowing the freon to circulate properly. is your compressor in good shape? how about the evaporator and orfice tube? might try to discharge the system and blow out the lines, and install a new orfice.
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Originally posted by Blackpony View Postdoes it get hot with the a/c off? if not you might look for a clog in the a/c system not allowing the freon to circulate properly. is your compressor in good shape? how about the evaporator and orfice tube? might try to discharge the system and blow out the lines, and install a new orfice.
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Originally posted by dville_gt View Postconsidered doing this, but with a powerglide i spin ~3k rpm on the highway. i've heard that the elec. pumps do better at idle, and are great for drag cars that makes short blast, but for a car that is going to maintain higher rpm's for long periods the pump doesn't keep up (since it doesn't spin relative to engine rpm).
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Originally posted by dville_gt View Postruns at 214-216 with the a/c off. still hotter then i'd like, but can at least maintain itself. when the ac comes on it starts steadily rising.
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Originally posted by dville_gt View Postruns at 214-216 with the a/c off. still hotter then i'd like, but can at least maintain itself. when the ac comes on it starts steadily rising.
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Originally posted by shumpertdavid View PostThis temp is normal operation for a 196 thermostat, how many times do I have to say this. If you don't like it running 215, out a colder f- ING thermostat in it. As far as it running so much hotter with a/c on, well youve exhausted most all logical options. I'd agree on trying a new oem temp sender.
I, personally, have NEVER had any luck running a 'hot' thermostant in a 'performance' application. Swore them off many years ago and never looked back.
FWIW, there are two distinct schools of thought on this subject and I think both have their merrit - but when you've tried everything, why not try a 6$ part?
Also, I'd vent the hood as CJ suggested. Only when you've made a pass and try to put your hand behind it will you understand the value of that hole in the hood. it's a great defroster too.
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Originally posted by turbostang View PostThis, this and this.
FWIW, there are two distinct schools of thought on this subject and I think both have their merrit - but when you've tried everything, why not try a 6$ part?
My engine machinist tells me that the hotter (safely) you can run a motor, the better it is, both in efficiency and wear. Again I stress safely, their lemons car regularly sees temps in the 240-245 range (if memory servers correct & during long endurance races), they do this by running a higher pressure cap rating to control pressure bleed and with a mixture of water and additive.
You may still benefit from a cooler thermostat, the problem is when the thermostat opens early on and the coolant flow is so great that the radiator doesn't have time to pull the heat out of the water as it comes through. Given everything you've tried, take Brooks advice. Put a cooler thermostat in it and try it.
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Just tried a few things with no luck. Can't find a 160 or 180* thermo locally. I had my heater core hoses looped and read where that can cause issues on these motors since it will recirculate hot coolant around the thermostat via the bypass. I also changed my upper radiator hose and steam vent hose. Nope, took it out and while I think it was "better" (i.e. took longer to heat up), it still couldn't keep it cool. Turned off the a/c @ 230 and it eventually settled down to ~214*. I am going to throw in a new temp sensor and see how it works, but while the autometer sensor reads different, at around 230 they seem to start reading pretty close together, at 214 via the scanner the autometer reads just over 200. Honestly not sure which one to trust.
I think I am going to try to drill out the insides of this thermo and run it with basically no thermo and see how it responds. Worst case I'll buy a new thermostat (and I think with the coolant lines bypassed I can get away with a normal SBC thermo since it won't matter about the bypass.
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Originally posted by dville_gt View PostJust tried a few things with no luck. Can't find a 160 or 180* thermo locally. I had my heater core hoses looped and read where that can cause issues on these motors since it will recirculate hot coolant around the thermostat via the bypass. I also changed my upper radiator hose and steam vent hose. Nope, took it out and while I think it was "better" (i.e. took longer to heat up), it still couldn't keep it cool. Turned off the a/c @ 230 and it eventually settled down to ~214*. I am going to throw in a new temp sensor and see how it works, but while the autometer sensor reads different, at around 230 they seem to start reading pretty close together, at 214 via the scanner the autometer reads just over 200. Honestly not sure which one to trust.
I think I am going to try to drill out the insides of this thermo and run it with basically no thermo and see how it responds. Worst case I'll buy a new thermostat (and I think with the coolant lines bypassed I can get away with a normal SBC thermo since it won't matter about the bypass."If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford
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Originally posted by Baron View PostWe gut the factory thermo and run it as a restrictor plate on the race cars, works great.
this shit is really aggravating. i need to throw an oil cooler on it as well as i am seeing 240-250* oil temps when the coolant temps get this high. iat's are 130-140 which also seems pretty high.
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