Grandma made a good choice when it came down to wheel selection!
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A flat, or dull clearcoat? Sealer?
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Dusty, if it were mine and I wanted to do what you were doing, I would hit the rust with some Scotchbrite, spray some One Step rust converter on it, and spray a flattened clear on it. The One Step will turn the surface rust black, but you would still be able to preserve the rest of the original paint with the flat clear.
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Originally posted by CRASH View PostDusty, if it were mine and I wanted to do what you were doing, I would hit the rust with some Scotchbrite, spray some One Step rust converter on it, and spray a flattened clear on it. The One Step will turn the surface rust black, but you would still be able to preserve the rest of the original paint with the flat clear.
John's wagon comes to mind. I'm really wondering what he has/has not done. I'm going for something like that.
I still want some stripes on the hood and trunk soon though!68 Coupe- 351w, TFS heads, Comp XE284, 5 speed, Explorer 8.8, 4 Wheel Discs
63 Fairlane
Originally posted by forbesi call 1911 first then 911
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IIRC reading through some old post on another forum, he CLR'ed it with water and a scotchbrite pad, then cleared over it. it's been awhile and from pictures, the clear looks flawless, and I think one of his buddies with a '63 Impala station wagon, did the same. Texas Toast if i remember it.
-k
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I'm in the same situation with my 67' mustang. I was planning on cleaning up what's left of my paint and rust and then coat the body with a flattened clear. Even if it only last 3-5 yrs, it delays having to spend money on an expensive paint job for now while still looking cool with what's left of it's original factory paint. Some of the rat rod guy's just brush on a layer of clear lacquer.
The body/paint will be the last thing I do to this car and I just don't want to have that epoxy primer look while I'm saving up for a nice paint job.
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