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Popping sound from rear of car.

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  • #16
    Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View Post
    Rough ride? Or greatly increased risk of tearing a box?
    Both. Ideal fix would be to order some new oem bushings to press in. solid uppers are not a must have unless you plan to do ALOT of racing and pinion angle adjustment.
    One day at a time.

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    • #17
      the uppers have to change length as the rear moves up and down, rubber bushings will squish and let that happen. Poly wont, and you will be putting the rear in a bind. Check out Maximum Motorsports website, they have a nice explaination of how it works, and why NOT to use poly *uppers only*.

      So yes, you can rip the torque boxes to hell, but you need to reinforce them either way.
      "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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      • #18
        I was kidding about the polys btw.

        They would be fine in the lowers though. Good weekend project.
        One day at a time.

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        • #19
          These Ford rear upper control arms are direct replacements for the 1979-2004 Mustang (non-IRS) control arms. They will restore performance lost to old and deteriorating rubber bushings. These control arms have the stiffest rubber bushings available, and are much stiffer than what came originally on the Fox chassis Mustangs. Although Ford Racing Performance Parts claims their bushings to be "twice as stiff" as stock, our testing has shown that while they are much stiffer than Fox chassis bushings, they are identical to the 1994-04 bushings.

          We performed extensive testing of rear upper control arm bushing materials during the development of our Panhard Bar. When retaining the original four-link suspension, the best compromise between resistance to suspension bind, best control of axle position, best ride quality, and least potential damage to the chassis, is to retain rubber bushings in the rear upper control arms. This is especially important when adding a Panhard Bar. The compliance of a rubber-bushed upper control arm is required when a Panhard bar is added to the Mustang four-link suspension.

          When installed on a 1979-93 Mustang, these control arms, with their stiffer rubber bushings, help limit axle wind-up and side-to-side motion, but will not damage your Mustang's upper control arm mounting points (torque boxes) as a standard urethane-bushed upper control arm would. See our extended technical information about bushing material choices in our Rear Lower Control Arm tech section.

          While for 1994-04 cars these control arms offer no improvement in performance, as they do on Fox chassis cars, they are a great value when replacing arms with damaged or aged bushings. Because rubber deteriorates simply from age, after several years the control arms are ready for replacement. High horsepower cars and those used for track events tend to damage bushings before they can degrade from age. These replacement control arms, along with the axle end bushings, are a great way to bring back or upgrade the performance of your Mustang.
          One day at a time.

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          • #20
            If sosoe doesn't get back with me I will go get the uppers out of my parts car in pilot point, they are in unknown condition. Hopefully they are fine, wasn't any noises when I drove the car in 2008.

            320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

            DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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            • #21
              The bushing on the axle housing was replaced last year.

              320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

              DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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              • #22
                Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View Post
                Or greatly increased risk of tearing a box?
                Nothing to add, but....

                That's what she said?


                ps: when you do get uca/lcas I'd recommend team-z. I had their rear end kit with relocated uppers and it was "da shirt".
                Ded

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                • #23
                  You dont want poly bushing for the uppers, only use rubber bushings.

                  I have only found two places online to order good/rubber axle bushings from.

                  Summit - Ford Racing Rubber Axle Bushings - M-4050-B


                  Maximum Motorsports - Rubber Axle Bushings - E4SZ-5A
                  1991 5.0 Mustang LX-Hatch, BBK Cold Air Intake, BBK Headers, BBK X-Pipe, Flowmaster 40's, HPM C/C Plates, Cobra Sway-Bar, UPR Subframe Connectors, UPR Control Arms, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, FRPP "C" Springs, FRPP 31 Spine Diff, Moser 31 Spline Axles, FRPP 3:73 Gears, Tokico Blue Shocks, King Cobra Clutch, MSD Ignition, Taurus Electric Fan, BBK Gripp Shifter, & More

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by VaderTT View Post
                    "da shirt".
                    I never got a shirt....
                    Putting warheads on foreheads since 2004

                    Pro-Touring Build

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View Post
                      Stock or what?

                      What do you want for them? My girlfriend gets off work at 7 tomorrow so I can meet you after that.
                      just buy me a AZ green tea 24oz and you can have them. Ill double check today if they are still there, 80% sure they are.

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                      • #26
                        I have them.

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                        • #27
                          What shape are the bushings in?

                          I had got some from a friend and they had a few cracks and I also got some from my parts car.. None of them were in perfect shape. It didn't do it until after driving a few miles.

                          It was fine backing out of the garage, fine coming off the stop signs, hills ect.. But I went into an open lot and put it in reverse and forward a few times and it came back. At first it only happened in reverse, ALOT less severe then at first. Then it started back in forward motion and gradually got worse and worse.

                          It's coming from the passengers side, I noticed the pasenger arm went in easier and had some space on the sides of the bushings, while the driver side was snug.

                          The lower control arm on the passenger side went in easier as well.

                          What do you guys think? I'm somewhat puzzled. It's a suspension issue for sure not a drive line..

                          Should I just tighten the crap out of it? I got them pretty damn good with the car loaded.

                          320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                          DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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                          • #28
                            betting your torque boxes are coming out, or the spots on the uppers could be too.
                            "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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                            • #29
                              They felt tight and look okay..

                              But I could be wrong. I've never seen a bad torque box before.

                              320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                              DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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                              • #30
                                Any cracking or warping in the metal?

                                Also look for elongated mounting holes.

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