Finding a draw on the battery

[EW]

16V am not good unless you have 16V system. Alt and charger should only put out about 14.5V.

[KBScobravert]

16V am not good unless you have 16V system. Alt and charger should only put out about 14.5V.

understood. I need to look at my charger and see why it is going that high

[DeddRekoning]

This just happened to me with 2 different alternators from Summit and both shit out on me after about a month or so of use. After that, they would be fine for the car when driving but if I let the car sit for more than 24 hours, the alternator drained the battery. So I eventually just went and picked one up from Oreilly's and haven't had any problems yet. *crossing fingers*

[KBScobravert]

Well just confirmed, with the battery charged to 14.5v, hooked up to the car, key out and the alternator unplugged, we still have 14.5v after sitting 8hrs.

I am gonna swap that regulator over tonight and hope that it clears up the running issue it developed after the dead battery.

[DeddRekoning]

the 2nd alternator I got from Summit, Oreilly's said it had a bad regulator and showed low output

[KBScobravert]

Well that was FUN. [borat]NOT[/borat]

I swapped the regulator - not the problem.
I checked Alternator 20amp fuse at fuse box under the hood (well in my case burried in the fender of course) - Good and good continuity to the plug.
Pulled and checked Instrument Panel fuse which is the power source for the voltage regulator - Good
I checked voltage there and with the key out it was getting 1.7v from ignition switch. It should only have power with key on engine run.



I dropped the collumn since I knew (assumed) my multifunction was bad because my blinkers were on the fritz.

Found this. The harness from the multifunction was smashed. ALL the wires have been crushed. Time to find a new/used one in good condition.






I smashed you good fucker!

[KBScobravert]

Anyone have a F4ZB-13B319-N160L turn signal harness laying around?

I could cut the bad section out and splice in new but that is gonna be 28 soldered joints.

[shumpertdavid]

Whiteboy? He's parting a couple Sn-95's

[KBScobravert]

Whiteboy? He's parting a couple Sn-95's

Perfect. Thanks.

[KBScobravert]

Found the short. It is in the section between the body harness and the alternator. Yellow/white hot all the time and Red/green key on were shorting together.

New 200amp alternator and 4ga charge wire going to be installed anyway.

[KBScobravert]

Found the battery/alternator command wire short. UGH. When I lengthened the factory harness back in 2008, one of my solder joints (key on 12v) sent the smallest of pricks through the heat sleeve and punctured the constant 12v wire. Just enough to keep the alternator thinking it needed to be putting out voltage/amps ALL THE TIME (key off, etc).

NOTE: Use GOOD thick heat shrink, not that cheap shit from autozone.

In the process I added a 4ga wire and the Powermaster 200amp alternator.

I still need to pull the DP and check the plugs and wires on the pass side then put the car back together and find out why it is running so bad. I think we may have smoked the ECU when I was charging the battery last weekend. UGH.