Originally posted by dville_gt
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Can anyone give me a run-down of how to route after-market fuel lines on a coupe?
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don't get me wrong, many people have fed the rails from the back and had no problems - I'm just saying that it's "more correct" to feed them from the front.
Now, it will also use more lines and fittings.... and to be honest, I doubt you could measure a fuel flow difference between the two if you wanted to.
Mine was one of the ones that had the regulator mounted on the cylinder head, but it was a carb'd car and not near as complex as EFI in that respect
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Originally posted by turbostang View Postdon't get me wrong, many people have fed the rails from the back and had no problems - I'm just saying that it's "more correct" to feed them from the front.
Now, it will also use more lines and fittings.... and to be honest, I doubt you could measure a fuel flow difference between the two if you wanted to.
Mine was one of the ones that had the regulator mounted on the cylinder head, but it was a carb'd car and not near as complex as EFI in that respect
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Originally posted by dville_gt View PostI remember you saying something about the feeding of the fuel from the front back on one of my (many) previous fuel system related post and for some reason I couldn't understand what you meant. For some reason it clicks now (DOH!), feed the rails from the front of the rail (ie. my -8 feeds on the front of the rail, and my -6 on the rear of the rail), this is actually opposite what I was planning on doing so thanks for clearing it up!
The bulk heads look so much cleaner then what I was planning, I think I'll probably just go that route, not exactly sure where I am going to mount the Y block though, I am trying to keep all fuel system parts off the firewall (per advice given here) and I also want to keep all fuel parts as far away from headers/exhaust as possible. Any tips here?
Oh, and I ended up running the battery cable inside the car so that shouldn't be an issue with the fuel system.Ring and pinion specialist
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Originally posted by greenbullitt View Postthose pics work ok i guess?
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Originally posted by dville_gt View PostYes! Shows exactly what I wanted to see. What I wanted to avoid is getting everything bolted up and then one of you guys take a look and say, "whoa, thats, umm...totally wrong dude" Too bad none of my good friends know jack about cars, this has been a 100% solo effort (if you don't include the e-advice I've gotten here). Definitely learned a lot.Ring and pinion specialist
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Originally posted by greenbullitt View PostCool. As Brooks stated, you probably wouldnt even be able to measure the difference between the front and rear feed, youll be fine with rear, I promise...I would go ahead and do the -8 from rails to reg though (wont cost anymore) and you wont have to think about it again...
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Originally posted by dville_gt View PostI would do that but I am running the a1000-6 regulator which has all -6 ports (two inlets and one outlet). I am running the stock truck rails (which are huge logs, and tapping them for 9/16-18 (aka -6 o-ring) (which is the perfect fit for the end of them http://i392.photobucket.com/albums/p...ocklq4hose.jpg ). So since both ends of the rails are going to be tapped for -6 and the regulator is -6 inlet I figure I wont be losing much. This is not a permanent solution as I plan to eventually step up to a fast intake/rails, at that point I might switch to a -8 and different regulator.Ring and pinion specialist
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Originally posted by Blue88Coupe View Postdville_gt: do you have a build thread somewhere on one of the boards?
Since my thread was on the old site I figured I'd start a new thread here with my LSx swap coupe. I have a running parts list at the bottom that I will try to keep updated. Plans for the car are to get it running over the Xmas break (need to finish buying my fuel lines/fittings) and run a 150 shot of nitrous until I can free up
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