Rebuilt engines

[SMEGMA STENCH]

Good point, but i guess i really don't mean "daily" driver. Just want the ability for it to be a decent daily .

I'll probly only drive 3 or 4 times a week really . But of course i want it to still be a good daily in case my main vehicle breaks down or something .

[KBScobravert]

You do realize how many years it would take to go over 100,000 miles on a car that you say today you will only drive 3-4 times a week? When reality is you might drive it 4-5 tmies a month and put maybe 5k a year on it.

As for suggestion. Build what every you like. As long as you do it RIGHT and not CHEAP you will not have any issues regarding longevity. You will change parts and the combo first like stated above.

Personally I would build a stock block, 331, AFR165, Holley Systemax intake and cam, 24lb injectors and any brand headers or exhuast. It will make enough hp for you to enjoy the drive and not too much to make you nervous about leaving your driveway.

[SMEGMA STENCH]

It will make enough hp for you to enjoy the drive and not too much to make you nervous about leaving your driveway.

Yeah see I do want some reliability too. If that is what you're referring to . Sounds like I might be better off with a Coyote. Won't be long now before they start showing up in the junkyards for reasonable prices.

[YALE]

I'd expect them to be $4k for a while from places like LQK. The crumby pick-a-part junkyards won't have them for a long time.

[turbostang]

Longevity starts with proper machine work, followed by a good tuneup.

If you don't have both of those, it won't last past a few years.


Bearing clearance is VERY important for the bottom end to last. Egged big ends will eat up a motor in a short time - as will a bad pilot bearing or a blown up torque converter.

Cylinder clearance is a major concern - a loose engine will leak oil fast as hell (caused by shitty ring seal).

[SMEGMA STENCH]

I'd expect them to be $4k for a while from places like LQK. The crumby pick-a-part junkyards won't have them for a long time.

VS how much for a good quality 393/408 build? From what you guys are saying it looks like a GOOD build of one of those things is going to run at least $3k . After reading this, i would be taking it to a reputable engine builder to actually assemble . After i bought all my parts and got everything together . So you gotta add that cost too. The Coyote would already be built .

Longevity starts with proper machine work, followed by a good tuneup.

If you don't have both of those, it won't last past a few years.


Bearing clearance is VERY important for the bottom end to last. Egged big ends will eat up a motor in a short time - as will a bad pilot bearing or a blown up torque converter.

Cylinder clearance is a major concern - a loose engine will leak oil fast as hell (caused by shitty ring seal).

Sounds like there is a ton of stuff to take into account . Who would you trust in DFW to do the job right ?

So that you would get the most possible longevity out of a 393/408.

[greenbullitt]

just buy cliftons in the classifieds and move on

[turbostang]

Sounds like there is a ton of stuff to take into account . Who would you trust in DFW to do the job right ?

So that you would get the most possible longevity out of a 393/408.

Good machine work is HIGH. Most of the time, that doens't come from hole in the wall places or high volume places.

just buy cliftons in the classifieds and move on

This isn't a bad idea. This engine was machined by Hans and is well worth whatver clifton is asking for it.

[SMEGMA STENCH]

Good machine work is HIGH. Most of the time, that doens't come from hole in the wall places or high volume places.

So in other words, the Coyote it is lol. Wonder how well it would fit in the engine bay of a 94 . I like to have at least some room to work on stuff .

As for the engine in the classifieds i cant do that right now . Im just starting the learning process about 6 month in advance (hopefully) so i can have plenty of time to figger stuff out .