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Issues with my Fox-Symptoms inside......

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  • #31
    Originally posted by DON SVO View Post
    This all occured at a car wash... Did you wash under the hood?
    Post #24
    Originally posted by robert View Post
    Did not wash the engine
    :-)
    2012 SRT8 Challenger 392 Hemi-6 speed
    Bright Silver Metallic w/ Black Stripes
    Leg Maker Inc. 4"Carbon Fiber CAI
    Speedlogix Catch Can
    Resonator Delete

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    • #32
      There's one of 3 likely problems.

      The chip.

      The TFI module as described. If it's not right, it will NOT run - aka, missfire, etc.. ALL signals that originate from the TFI control injector firing, spark, fuel pump priming etc.

      Gas, it has water in it. If you drain some fuel and put it in a glass jar, or a clear fuel jug - the water will seperate and sink. It will be very obvious.

      If the car has a calibrated maf (to the injectors) - it will start and run fine, but likely be rich.

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      • #33
        Def interested in this thread & OP please post up when you get it fixed. I have a 90 HCI Coupe that wont fire up either, Just turns, But KNOCK ON WOOD! Im pretty sure its the Fuel Pump
        GOD BLESS TEXAS
        August Landscaping
        214-779-7278
        Seb's high class.
        He'll mow your grass.
        He'll kick your ass.
        And while his kidney stones pass,
        He'll piss in a glass!

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        • #34
          Yes my PMAS is cal'd for 60lbs and did-does work ok w/o tune but a bit
          sloppy, my chip has 3 positions; Stock-Motor tune-Nitrous tune.
          I tried the Stock position cause I noticed that the pump primed and stopped like it's
          supposed to do when I was about to do the KOEO test.
          It's a possibility that chip "Fried" looking into this with tuner in Fl
          I'll check the gas to rule it out or not,
          will keep posting what I find and of course when it gets' fixed.
          Might take the leap and re-do the fuel set up now that I have the Tank-A1000
          already running the Aeromotive rails and Regulator
          Which lines-fittings should I get and or stay away from?
          Thanks for the contributions.
          Last edited by robert; 04-09-2012, 06:25 PM.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by robert View Post
            Yes my PMAS is cal'd for 60lbs and did-does work ok w/o tune but a bit
            sloppy, my chip has 3 positions; Stock-Motor tune-Nitrous tune.
            I tried the Stock position cause I noticed that the pump primed and stopped like it's
            supposed to do when I was about to do the KOEO test.
            It's a possibility that chip "Fried" looking into this with tuner in Fl
            I'll check the gas to rule it out or not,
            will keep posting what I find and of course when it gets' fixed.
            Might take the leap and re-do the fuel set up now that I have the Tank-A1000
            already running the Aeromotive rails and Regulator
            Which lines-fittings should I get and or stay away from?
            Thanks for the contributions.
            Use rubber pushlock. Your pocket book and sanity plus your nose with thank me.

            I am an Earl's first kind of guy but I was picky about getting all black and all the same color.

            Good luck figuring the start up issue.
            Fuck you. We're going to Costco.

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            • #36
              I'd seriously consider looking at that ignition switch. They are notorious for failing on Fox body cars and they cause multiple electrical issues simultaneously. If it's never been replaced, then it's far past due.

              PS - not the key switch, where you insert the key itself. The ignition switch is what determines whether a circuit is live based on key position. The one on the right is seperating and should be replaced.

              When the government pays, the government controls.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by 46Tbird View Post
                I'd seriously consider looking at that ignition switch. They are notorious for failing on Fox body cars and they cause multiple electrical issues simultaneously. If it's never been replaced, then it's far past due.

                PS - not the key switch, where you insert the key itself. The ignition switch is what determines whether a circuit is live based on key position. The one on the right is seperating and should be replaced.

                Where is this switch located?
                Easy to access?
                thx

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by robert View Post
                  Where is this switch located?
                  Easy to access?
                  thx
                  On the steering collumn under the knee bolster.
                  Fuck you. We're going to Costco.

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                  • #39
                    It's not a terribly difficult job to do. But you will need the "security" torx bit set from your local parts store to get the screws out.
                    When the government pays, the government controls.

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                    • #40
                      Thanks fellas for the help
                      Will look into the Ignition switch as well.

                      Keith thx for the reply on the Fuel hoses,
                      Might do 12an tank to pump > 10an feed 8an return.
                      Should of also asked how much hose should I get.

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                      • #41
                        Not Dead yet
                        Replaced switch was not the problem,
                        Swapped the new Dizzy with and OLD Stocker- I got some
                        improvement with the "Stock" position
                        Removed chip from ecu, she fires up like a champ
                        Little rough when she warms up due to lack of Tune.
                        Sent chip back to tuner hoping he can re-flash or
                        burn a new one.
                        Both ecu(old) and chip fried anyone had this happen?
                        Last edited by robert; 04-11-2012, 07:50 PM.

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by robert View Post
                          Thanks fellas for the help
                          Will look into the Ignition switch as well.

                          Keith thx for the reply on the Fuel hoses,
                          Might do 12an tank to pump > 10an feed 8an return.
                          Should of also asked how much hose should I get.
                          That is how I was going to run the system in my car.

                          3' of -12
                          20' of -10
                          20' of -8
                          should be enough as long as you don't get crazy with where they run. I would run a Y block for your feed near the engine. -10an in and -8an out to the rails (may need more -8an)
                          Fuck you. We're going to Costco.

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                          • #43
                            Thanks for the info!

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