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  • Front suspension travel question

    After looking at videos of my launches it seems like my suspension tops out after only 3-4" or so, as soon as it tops out it spins. I am trying to figure out why I don't get more travel out of the suspension. Current setup in the front is 150lb 14" springs, coilover kit, strange 10-way shocks set on 3 from loose.

    I am probably going to wait to race it anymore until I can get a good co2 boost controller as the car either spins if I leave with boost or is a slug if I leave with no boost (if I leave with little boost it won't see full boost until second gear, if I leave off the brake with a decent amount of boost it spins).

    If I jack the car up off the ground the suspension seems to have a lot of travel, but at the track it seems like it tops out way early. I was trying to visualize if having the coil overs set too low in the front would cause a problem like this, but can't really see how it would.

    Any input?

  • #2
    don't remember, but did you ever get a fresh set of tires on the back?

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by shumpertdavid View Post
      don't remember, but did you ever get a fresh set of tires on the back?
      ya, i'm on 275 radials now

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
        After looking at videos of my launches it seems like my suspension tops out after only 3-4" or so, as soon as it tops out it spins. I am trying to figure out why I don't get more travel out of the suspension. Current setup in the front is 150lb 14" springs, coilover kit, strange 10-way shocks set on 3 from loose.

        I am probably going to wait to race it anymore until I can get a good co2 boost controller as the car either spins if I leave with boost or is a slug if I leave with no boost (if I leave with little boost it won't see full boost until second gear, if I leave off the brake with a decent amount of boost it spins).

        If I jack the car up off the ground the suspension seems to have a lot of travel, but at the track it seems like it tops out way early. I was trying to visualize if having the coil overs set too low in the front would cause a problem like this, but can't really see how it would.

        Any input?
        Call jamesb but I think it is 2" from the center of wheel to the bottom of the fender well

        posted by a trick 3d evo
        Trick3d EVO

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        • #5
          With the car jacked up

          posted by a trick 3d evo
          Trick3d EVO

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Relinquished View Post
            Call jamesb but I think it is 2" from the center of wheel to the bottom of the fender well

            posted by a trick 3d evo
            2 inch or feet?

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            • #7
              The front suspension stops moving upward because the tires start to spin.

              Ever think about trying a slick on the car? Getting a 275 to hook off the brake is going to be very hard for you.

              Comment


              • #8
                2 75 either hook or they don't. Its not like a slick you spin it a little of the line and it grabs. Most guys limit their front end travel to 1-3 inches. Gobbs of suspension travel is the old school way of weight transfer. If the suspension travels to far to fast it can unload the rear shocks causing tire spin. Try dampening rear shock travel more.

                Sam is probably more on it. If the tires spin then forward momentum stops. But I don't think there is any reason you cant get it to hook with the right setup. Lots of people go much faster on the same tire.
                Last edited by turbos66coupe; 03-20-2012, 03:00 AM.
                89 dove grey lx, turbo blowthrough

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                • #9
                  As mentioned above, when the struts top out - that's bad. You're using energy, that should be used for moving the car, to move the front end up.

                  If the struts top out, you are limited to how much power you can put in down low - otherwise, when they reach their limit - 99.9% of the time it will spin, unless it's an extremely underpowered pig.

                  Clifton's car made it's first passes ALL the way down the track Saturday - the only change was the limiters. 1.30 on the first full 60'.

                  The blue coupe has no limiters - and I had to take VERY small steps to make that car hook. The boost ramp was ~2.5 seconds and only saw 23psi at that. It only 60'd 1.34 best, all weekend.

                  Go watch the 5.20 video that Jay Shafer has. Watch ALL the mustangs (except the one with flames I was working on) the two white camaros, the grey 69 camaro... ALL of them have travel-limited front ends. The red/white 67-68 camaro of greg moss - it 60'd 1.20!!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Sam88gta1 View Post
                    The front suspension stops moving upward because the tires start to spin.

                    Ever think about trying a slick on the car? Getting a 275 to hook off the brake is going to be very hard for you.
                    i'd like to stay with a radial since i like driving the car on the street and don't have a way to lug around a second set of wheels, if somebody at the track would lend me a pair for a pass i'd love to make a full kill pass off the brake and see what it does though.

                    i am looking at buying a co2 boost controller and trying to find a happy medium where i can ramp in the boost without having to either leave completely flat or with too much.

                    Originally posted by turbos66coupe View Post
                    2 75 either hook or they don't. Its not like a slick you spin it a little of the line and it grabs. Most guys limit their front end travel to 1-3 inches. Gobbs of suspension travel is the old school way of weight transfer. If the suspension travels to far to fast it can unload the rear shocks causing tire spin. Try dampening rear shock travel more.

                    Sam is probably more on it. If the tires spin then forward momentum stops. But I don't think there is any reason you cant get it to hook with the right setup. Lots of people go much faster on the same tire.
                    i def. know that many go much faster on the 275 then i ever will, that is why i'd rather not ditch them (plus i don't want to have to have 2 sets of wheels and figure out a way to lug them to/from the track).

                    Originally posted by turbostang View Post
                    As mentioned above, when the struts top out - that's bad. You're using energy, that should be used for moving the car, to move the front end up.

                    If the struts top out, you are limited to how much power you can put in down low - otherwise, when they reach their limit - 99.9% of the time it will spin, unless it's an extremely underpowered pig.

                    Clifton's car made it's first passes ALL the way down the track Saturday - the only change was the limiters. 1.30 on the first full 60'.

                    The blue coupe has no limiters - and I had to take VERY small steps to make that car hook. The boost ramp was ~2.5 seconds and only saw 23psi at that. It only 60'd 1.34 best, all weekend.

                    Go watch the 5.20 video that Jay Shafer has. Watch ALL the mustangs (except the one with flames I was working on) the two white camaros, the grey 69 camaro... ALL of them have travel-limited front ends. The red/white 67-68 camaro of greg moss - it 60'd 1.20!!
                    sounds like my problem (like you had said) is not going to be suspension as much as it is the lack of a controller, i guess the brake + the extra boost is just too much shock on the radial. what do you think about a ams500, seems they can be found for about half what the leashed2 goes for (granted with half the features, but still seems to be a decent controller).

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
                      i'd like to stay with a radial since i like driving the car on the street and don't have a way to lug around a second set of wheels, if somebody at the track would lend me a pair for a pass i'd love to make a full kill pass off the brake and see what it does though.

                      i am looking at buying a co2 boost controller and trying to find a happy medium where i can ramp in the boost without having to either leave completely flat or with too much.



                      i def. know that many go much faster on the 275 then i ever will, that is why i'd rather not ditch them (plus i don't want to have to have 2 sets of wheels and figure out a way to lug them to/from the track).



                      sounds like my problem (like you had said) is not going to be suspension as much as it is the lack of a controller, i guess the brake + the extra boost is just too much shock on the radial. what do you think about a ams500, seems they can be found for about half what the leashed2 goes for (granted with half the features, but still seems to be a decent controller).
                      I'm sure it's a good controller - but it's half the features. Features you'll likely need. 2 stages of ramp will only carry you so far. Likely why it's for sale now. boost leash has a 5 year warranty. 6 stages and it datalogs and plots c02 vs. MAP right out of the box. The AMS doesnt.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by turbostang View Post
                        I'm sure it's a good controller - but it's half the features. Features you'll likely need. 2 stages of ramp will only carry you so far. Likely why it's for sale now. boost leash has a 5 year warranty. 6 stages and it datalogs and plots c02 vs. MAP right out of the box. The AMS doesnt.
                        ya, i guess it is probably like everything else in this game, pay once or pay twice, but you will pay.

                        think i should add this to the wish list as well since i plan to stay on radials?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
                          ya, i guess it is probably like everything else in this game, pay once or pay twice, but you will pay.

                          think i should add this to the wish list as well since i plan to stay on radials?

                          http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=305
                          IDk, depends on how serious you want to get.

                          You'll absolutely want to disconnect that pin when you drive around. it will have no upward travel (or very little, depending on how you set itup)

                          ..for 45$, I would be getting one asap.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by turbostang View Post
                            IDk, depends on how serious you want to get.

                            You'll absolutely want to disconnect that pin when you drive around. it will have no upward travel (or very little, depending on how you set itup)

                            ..for 45$, I would be getting one asap.
                            ya, i'll go ahead and order one and weld it up while i wait for the boost controller, from what i've heard i need to weld in some extra supports/dzus fasteners as my hood apparently dances around wildly at the big end of the track.. had the trans not gone it'd have been no biggie to grab a good controller asap, but i've got to tread lightly after a large purchase to keep the lady happy.

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                            • #15
                              i've got to tread lightly after a large purchase to keep the lady happy.

                              That saying should be on a dfwm t shirt lol.
                              One day at a time.

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