Driveshaft/U-Joints...Damage from Spring Cruise

[BEARY]

So, at the cruise, when I broke as I crossed the beams/exterminated all of the mosquitoes from Sanger to Oklahoma, my aluminum driveshaft/rear u-joint failed...even with the safety loop on it still broke the housing of my Dynamic Mighty-Mite C4 M2....lost a little fluid, which caused all the smoke....

Anyway, I have the car on stands and getting ready to pull tranny and send it back to Dynamic so they can go through it, ensure no internal damage, replace the tail housing and likely have them upgrade it to the X6..

I plan to get away from alumium driveshafts and go DOM or Chromoly with 1350 u-joints (I feel the yoke on the driveshaft failed initally and then u-joint, but not for certain) so as to hopefully elminiate this from happening again in the future.

I'm aware of Mark Williams and PST and will likely go to one of them...

Curious, what are you guys that are making over 600RWHP running for a set-up as far as the driveshaft/u-joints???

I also see where they have safety loops for the 9" (bolts on the thrid member), which would also eliminate the slinging around of the driveshaft in case of a failure on the rear u-joint, which is what I experienced (also damaged exhaust and brake lines) Does anyone make a safety loop for the 8.8???

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

[dville_gt]

So, at the cruise, when I broke as I crossed the beams/exterminated all of the mosquitoes from Sanger to Oklahoma, my aluminum driveshaft/rear u-joint failed...even with the safety loop on it still broke the housing of my Dynamic Mighty-Mite C4 M2....lost a little fluid, which caused all the smoke....

Anyway, I have the car on stands and getting ready to pull tranny and send it back to Dynamic so they can go through it, ensure no internal damage, replace the tail housing and likely have them upgrade it to the X6..

I plan to get away from alumium driveshafts and go DOM or Chromoly with 1350 u-joints (I feel the yoke on the driveshaft failed initally and then u-joint, but not for certain) so as to hopefully elminiate this from happening again in the future.

I'm aware of Mark Williams and PST and will likely go to one of them...

Curious, what are you guys that are making over 600RWHP running for a set-up as far as the driveshaft/u-joints???

I also see where they have safety loops for the 9" (bolts on the thrid member), which would also eliminate the slinging around of the driveshaft in case of a failure on the rear u-joint, which is what I experienced (also damaged exhaust and brake lines) Does anyone make a safety loop for the 8.8???

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

Can't really comment on how well it works, but this is what I went with for my car that is probably making over 600 at the wheels:

U1630 - Saddle type rear yoke for 8.8
U1662 - Slip Yoke (this is for a powerglide though/27 spline)
U1610 - U-bolt kit

Then I had Ft Worth Gear and Axle make me a 3.5 DOM shaft with "maintenance free" u-joints (no hole through it).

Shaft w/joints was like 260. The slip yoke, and rear yoke/bolt it was like 200 from Jegs. All-in-all about 450 in it. I will be soon testing it's strength.

[sspstang]

Can't really comment on how well it works, but this is what I went with for my car that is probably making over 600 at the wheels:

U1630 - Saddle type rear yoke for 8.8
U1662 - Slip Yoke (this is for a powerglide though/27 spline)
U1610 - U-bolt kit

Then I had Ft Worth Gear and Axle make me a 3.5 DOM shaft with "maintenance free" u-joints (no hole through it).

Shaft w/joints was like 260. The slip yoke, and rear yoke/bolt it was like 200 from Jegs. All-in-all about 450 in it. I will be soon testing it's strength.

They do excellent work.

[mikeb]

Denny's driveshaft has a "nitrous ready" driveshaft that's guaranteed not to break, you might check them out. It comes with a HD yoke and 1350 u-joints.

[dville_gt]

Denny's driveshaft has a "nitrous ready" driveshaft that's guaranteed not to break, you might check them out. It comes with a HD yoke and 1350 u-joints.

They are also assholes on the phone!

[turbostang]

So, at the cruise, when I broke as I crossed the beams/exterminated all of the mosquitoes from Sanger to Oklahoma, my aluminum driveshaft/rear u-joint failed...even with the safety loop on it still broke the housing of my Dynamic Mighty-Mite C4 M2....lost a little fluid, which caused all the smoke....

Anyway, I have the car on stands and getting ready to pull tranny and send it back to Dynamic so they can go through it, ensure no internal damage, replace the tail housing and likely have them upgrade it to the X6..

I plan to get away from alumium driveshafts and go DOM or Chromoly with 1350 u-joints (I feel the yoke on the driveshaft failed initally and then u-joint, but not for certain) so as to hopefully elminiate this from happening again in the future.

I'm aware of Mark Williams and PST and will likely go to one of them...

Curious, what are you guys that are making over 600RWHP running for a set-up as far as the driveshaft/u-joints???

I also see where they have safety loops for the 9" (bolts on the thrid member), which would also eliminate the slinging around of the driveshaft in case of a failure on the rear u-joint, which is what I experienced (also damaged exhaust and brake lines) Does anyone make a safety loop for the 8.8???

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

I'm certain you hit the nail on the head with your assesment. That's a common failure - if you got to look at that yoke before failure, you'd see why.

You are well on the right track with the parts list you've talked about. I'd be looking for the 1350's, a saddle type yoke and DOM tubing. At your power level, 3" would be ok, but a 3.5" would be better imho.


There's some fast ass cars with an aluminum driveshaft and stock type parts, but it's not the best setup.

[BEARY]

Can't really comment on how well it works, but this is what I went with for my car that is probably making over 600 at the wheels:

U1630 - Saddle type rear yoke for 8.8
U1662 - Slip Yoke (this is for a powerglide though/27 spline)
U1610 - U-bolt kit

Then I had Ft Worth Gear and Axle make me a 3.5 DOM shaft with "maintenance free" u-joints (no hole through it).

Shaft w/joints was like 260. The slip yoke, and rear yoke/bolt it was like 200 from Jegs. All-in-all about 450 in it. I will be soon testing it's strength.

LMAO!! "Probably making over 600 at the wheels" I'm pretty certain you are!!

Thanks for the feedback and the detailed information, I appreciate it!

[BEARY]

Denny's driveshaft has a "nitrous ready" driveshaft that's guaranteed not to break, you might check them out. It comes with a HD yoke and 1350 u-joints.

Thanks for the input, I'll check that out as well!

[BEARY]

I'm certain you hit the nail on the head with your assesment. That's a common failure - if you got to look at that yoke before failure, you'd see why.

You are well on the right track with the parts list you've talked about. I'd be looking for the 1350's, a saddle type yoke and DOM tubing. At your power level, 3" would be ok, but a 3.5" would be better imho.


There's some fast ass cars with an aluminum driveshaft and stock type parts, but it's not the best setup.

Thanks for the feedback, glad to know I'm on the right track!

[Smurf]

Mark Williams shaft, pinion yoke, and u-joint and never look back. I always say to build for what you might have in the future so it's 1 and done. Spend a little extra cash now and have piece of mind later......

[BEARY]

Mark Williams shaft, pinion yoke, and u-joint and never look back. I always say to build for what you might have in the future so it's 1 and done. Spend a little extra cash now and have piece of mind later......

My thoughts exactly, as eventually (down the road, might be years) this car will be putting down more HP/TQ and I only want to upgrade this area once....

[jyro]

Drive shaft king

on beckley, they did my whole setup
roots and methanol