4L80 or PowerGlide

[greenbullitt]

I'm pretty sure that it was over on Riverside Dr. Ask blk93coupe, he is the one who told me to go there.

that is correct, riverside

[kidcapri]

that is correct, riverside

Thank you sir. Brooks has actually been on my ASS about changing mine because they are not the crimped on fittings. The guy at Stewart says they will be fine but Brooks is almost always right(fuck, I hate that)

[turbostang]

Thank you sir. Brooks has actually been on my ASS about changing mine because they are not the crimped on fittings. The guy at Stewart says they will be fine but Brooks is almost always right(fuck, I hate that)

^^His car lost the hose at the top of the track @ 140, luckily it was behind the tires. The other two times was pulling into the water box and pulling into the pits. Extremely lucky.

It's not about bieng right or wrong for me - I'd much rather overbuild and not question if it's going to last.

In THIS case, you don't want me to be right. (As in, the hose failed followed by "I told you so".)

[dville_gt]

Out of all the possible mistakes to make, I can gaurantee you one thing - this is THE biggest one you can make.

I can assure you with 100% certaintly that this has NO good outcome.

3 times in the span of 2 weeks last season KidCapri's car blew trans lines off of it (they were the nylon version of what you speak of). He had to change to the steel braided lines.

The only option outside of steel braided lines are crimped hydraulic hoses.

...having said that, at some point in the near future you should invest in a trans temp guage.

I have a trans temp gauge already installed. Looks like I need to buy a new cooler as my current cooler only has barbed ends (B&M supercooler). I'll probably just go with stainless lines since it'd be easier then messing with getting lines made somewhere else.

[Lason]

B&M supercoolers are what I always suggest but they (at least the ones I have seen) dont have barbed ends.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Cooling-Heating/Section/Oil-and-Fluid-Coolers/Brand/B-M/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

[turbostang]

I have a trans temp gauge already installed. Looks like I need to buy a new cooler as my current cooler only has barbed ends (B&M supercooler). I'll probably just go with stainless lines since it'd be easier then messing with getting lines made somewhere else.

Yeah, not a bad choice.

Turbo cars inherently make some heat in the trans because of how we stage the car, but if it's plumbed right - there's no problems.

The ones Lason suggested above are exactly what we use both in air cooled applicatoins and water cooled.

[dville_gt]

Yeah, not a bad choice.

Turbo cars inherently make some heat in the trans because of how we stage the car, but if it's plumbed right - there's no problems.

The ones Lason suggested above are exactly what we use both in air cooled applicatoins and water cooled.

Ya, before I went turbo (and had Mike restall the converter), the trans would get pretty warm. The combination of tighter converter and the implementation of the line lock (if you remember, my car HATED burnouts before the line lock) brought my trans temps WAAAYYY down. Before I'd see ~220* after a pass and could even slightly smell trans fluid, now I was seeing ~180*. I know the weather is still cool, but even cruising down the highway I was only seeing ~190 during the day, and ~150 at night. Figure the glide is probably a little harder on the fluid though.

[dville_gt]

I love this forum even if the advice cost me a fortune to follow.

[turbostang]

I love this forum even if the advice cost me a fortune to follow.

You don't know expensive yet. I know it's apples to oranges right now, but I could duplicate your car 3 times for what I've spent this time around on mine. (I'm not intending to take anything from yours, just a money spent comparison)

Not to mention after the car is built - on some cars we run tires for ~25 passes. We use 10gallons of C16 a night. We use around 60lbs of ice a night. On KidCapri's car we had 5 sets of tires last season. (2000$+ alone)

[2165 Turbo Rail]

B&M supercoolers are what I always suggest but they (at least the ones I have seen) dont have barbed ends.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

This is what I have On the tranny in the GTO. I got the biggest one I could fit whih I sure is WAY overkill for my application

[dville_gt]

You don't know expensive yet. I know it's apples to oranges right now, but I could duplicate your car 3 times for what I've spent this time around on mine. (I'm not intending to take anything from yours, just a money spent comparison)

Not to mention after the car is built - on some cars we run tires for ~25 passes. We use 10gallons of C16 a night. We use around 60lbs of ice a night. On KidCapri's car we had 5 sets of tires last season. (2000$+ alone)

That is why I really don't want to go any faster then what I am right now. If I can have a "reliable" car that I can drive off the street and onto the track, run ~5.80, cruise off the track and drive home a/c blasting I think that is plenty. Thousands of dollars on tires, 150 bucks worth of gas a night, 50 bucks worth of ice to go half a second faster just doesn't work with my fiances at this point.

[turbostang]

That is why I really don't want to go any faster then what I am right now. If I can have a "reliable" car that I can drive off the street and onto the track, run ~5.80, cruise off the track and drive home a/c blasting I think that is plenty. Thousands of dollars on tires, 150 bucks worth of gas a night, 50 bucks worth of ice to go half a second faster just doesn't work with my fiances at this point.

It's not for everyone, money or otherwise.

With E85 on the scene, it's a lot easier though. I think we can do it without the race gas, without the ice. Tires, well - tires make a HUGE difference when you're making 1400HP or so to the ground... but some cars struggle with 'seasoned' tires, others will run fine down to the cords.

[dville_gt]

It's not for everyone, money or otherwise.

With E85 on the scene, it's a lot easier though. I think we can do it without the race gas, without the ice. Tires, well - tires make a HUGE difference when you're making 1400HP or so to the ground... but some cars struggle with 'seasoned' tires, others will run fine down to the cords.

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE this sport, and if I didn't have a somewhat level head, a fiance' who is good with money, and what I am assuming is an unknown Jewish heritage somewhere in my family history, I would have already poured every dollar to my name in the coupe. I wish I had more to spend so I could do "best of the best", I am really thankful for guys like you and all the others on the site who can understand this and say look, don't skimp here, you gotta pay right now, I want the car to be safe first and foremost, I might not always be able to afford faster, but safe is a must, and as I've gotten faster I've learned that every HP, every tenth, every mph comes at a exponentially higher cost. I am just at a point now that I am not willing to pay the toll to go faster.

[turbostang]

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE this sport, and if I didn't have a somewhat level head, a fiance' who is good with money, and what I am assuming is an unknown Jewish heritage somewhere in my family history, I would have already poured every dollar to my name in the coupe. I wish I had more to spend so I could do "best of the best", I am really thankful for guys like you and all the others on the site who can understand this and say look, don't skimp here, you gotta pay right now, I want the car to be safe first and foremost, I might not always be able to afford faster, but safe is a must, and as I've gotten faster I've learned that every HP, every tenth, every mph comes at a exponentially higher cost. I am just at a point now that I am not willing to pay the toll to go faster.

You can do it right, and not go broke (within your realm of 'broke' compared to everyone elses of course).

I bet your car ends up going .60's before it's all said and done. You have to be realistic of your expectations though - The warm weather is getting close, you can expect to lose a tenth or two when that happens, and get it back around late September or so..But, before season's end - I bet it has a .69 or better.

[dville_gt]

You can do it right, and not go broke (within your realm of 'broke' compared to everyone elses of course).

I bet your car ends up going .60's before it's all said and done. You have to be realistic of your expectations though - The warm weather is getting close, you can expect to lose a tenth or two when that happens, and get it back around late September or so..But, before season's end - I bet it has a .69 or better.

Honestly I'd be happy with another .8x, anything faster will just be an added bonus. I feel like the next big purchases (which might be a while after this current round), need to be a good boost controller, headstuds/ls9 headgaskets, a new set of radials, and dyno time (and possibly some extra boost, running ~13psi currently). The record for stock lsx shortblock is 5.53 in a super light rx7 w/4 link, glide, 25psi, 2600lbs (w/driver), 33in slicks, and a billet precision 7675.

If I could go .60's w/ a stock lq9 in a stock style suspension coupe on radials w/ac and a LOT more weight, I'd crap my pants!