I will have to look when I get home but I think my iron is 200w. It heats up real fast and makes quick work.
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how hard is it to solder?
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Originally posted by lo3oz View Postwow... remind me not to let some of you work on my shit!
Don't twist and solder... lol.
Use butt connectors. Crimp wires in and use solder to fill the void between wire and butt connector. Solder follows heat, so it will actually "pull" towards the heat, even up a wire.
If you're going to use shrink tube, apply it to one side of the wire before you solder everything up lol. if not, use the Super33 electrical tape.. not the junk from HF or the like.
Part of my job for the last few years has consisted of 12v installs. If you take the quick easy way out, you're almost guaranteed another visit from the same problem you're currently having.
Originally posted by Lason View PostKyle, I have twisted and soldered like above for years and never had a failure due to a solder joint. But I will gladly not ever work on your stuff for you
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Originally posted by Muffrazr View PostFucking thank you!!
What you did "works", but the way that the wire was twisted together actually creates a little resistance for the electricity. If you are working with sensors this can throw them off just a little.
Im not going to argue if a butt splice is any stronger or less stronger than a twist and solder method, but I will argue that twist and solder causes any problems. It wont.
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Originally posted by Lason View PostOnce again, I have NEVER had issues with the way I stated. The last time I spent any long amount of soldering I built an entire harness for the EFI (and even the ECM itself) for my car and never had any issues related to soldering joints, resistance, etc.
Im not going to argue if a butt splice is any stronger or less stronger than a twist and solder method, but I will argue that twist and solder causes any problems. It wont.
I'm heavily OCD with my soldering and wire connections, so I'm very likely to always go overboard. It's what I do for a living.
If you're ever working with highly sensitive sensors that require a specific resistance, then you'll want to make sure you never change the twist of the wire. This is where the resistance thing comes into play. EFI systems aren't quite that finicky.
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Lason I hear you on having never had problems, and honestly i've used your method before in a pinch and it works.. but it's not the "right" way to do it.
Lately my installs have been on Med units, Fire engines, and squad cars. If you know how much fucking junk is crammed into those things, you can understand how spending an extra 20 seconds to solder it "properly" would be hugely beneficial. If not, I have to start pulling loom and chasing down connections, which is a major PITA. I build my installs to last the life of the vehicle, which is a hard life no less. If i don't ever have to crawl into some dirty hidden space in a vehicle because of a broken wire again, it wouldn't be soon enough.Last edited by lowthreeohz; 12-14-2010, 12:28 PM.
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Kyle, I wouldnt say it isnt the "right" way of doing it. Just google how to solder and see how many of those tutorials use a linemans twist vs butt connectors. There is just more of a mechanical bond there before the solder than two crimps.
Either way, lets just chalk it up as more than one way to get to point A from point B.
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Originally posted by Lason View PostKyle, I wouldnt say it isnt the "right" way of doing it. Just google how to solder and see how many of those tutorials use a linemans twist vs butt connectors. There is just more of a mechanical bond there before the solder than two crimps.
Either way, lets just chalk it up as more than one way to get to point A from point B.
But, I hear what you're saying.. and we shall agree to disagree.
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