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1989 349ci MP T-70 Turbo Mustang Build

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  • #16
    Here is a shot of the wastegate and wiring that I routed through the fender.

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    • #17
      Juicey
      Originally posted by Buzzo
      Some dudes jump out of airplanes, I fuck hookers without condoms.

      sigpic

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      • #18
        For the life of me I have not been able to figure out why it did not just bolt up but when I replace the T-5 with the new built AOD I could not get the tranny mount bolt holes to line up. So I notched the crossmember to reveal the holes. Then I got a steel plate welded it in place and drilled new holes for the mount. Shot a little paint on it and called it good.



        After I got all of that taken care of I started the install of the B&M shifter. Its just bolted in place right now. I'm going to try and finish that install some time this week.


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        • #19
          Nice build. How far do you think those 50lb injectors will get you?

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          • #20
            manual to auto swap? your man card has been revoked lol

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            • #21
              Originally posted by rusty shackleford View Post
              manual to auto swap? your man card has been revoked lol
              Why would he want to go slower?

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              • #22
                Did you buy the turbo kit used? The intercooler looks like an olde style. I've got the kit on my fox, so I can make a few educated comments. I'd fix that drain line. I know it's a pain, but you want that as short and direct, sloped path as possible to the pan. If it backs up at all, it'll smoke like a tarbaby out the tailpipe. I'm glad you're using an aftermarket block. That's the weak link on mine. My 42's are done at 550rwhp, so I'd think you could probably take the 50's to maybe 650 at most. I've got the PMAS blowthru MAF on mine, but yours should work fine. Heat is a bitch on these, so pull everything back and away from the hotside piping that you can. Protect your plug wires and any wiring nearby. What tranny? What rear gear? Get a 2-step. I had to move the A/C dryer on mine as well. That line that runs right under the downpipe ruptured on mine, but you may have luck wrapping the hell out of it then reinstalling. That's all I can think of for now. Feel free to ask any questions you might have.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by BLK306 View Post
                  Here is a shot of the wastegate and wiring that I routed through the fender.

                  That wiring will be toast in no time. Seriously you need to get all that stuff away from the hotside.

                  Here is what happened to some wiring loom I had that was about a foot away from my headers on my old turbo setup. This was after a week of tuning too, luckily the wiring was ok just the loom was melted.

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                  • #24
                    Good job Travis, keep the updates coming.

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                    • #25
                      Fix the drain! It needs to go throught a hole cut in the frame rail under the turbo and at as much of a downward angle as possible. I'll try to find pictures of one of my old b&g kits.

                      Either that or use a scavenge pump.
                      Ded

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Doug Hatton View Post
                        Did you buy the turbo kit used? The intercooler looks like an olde style. I've got the kit on my fox, so I can make a few educated comments. I'd fix that drain line. I know it's a pain, but you want that as short and direct, sloped path as possible to the pan. If it backs up at all, it'll smoke like a tarbaby out the tailpipe. I'm glad you're using an aftermarket block. That's the weak link on mine. My 42's are done at 550rwhp, so I'd think you could probably take the 50's to maybe 650 at most. I've got the PMAS blowthru MAF on mine, but yours should work fine. Heat is a bitch on these, so pull everything back and away from the hotside piping that you can. Protect your plug wires and any wiring nearby. What tranny? What rear gear? Get a 2-step. I had to move the A/C dryer on mine as well. That line that runs right under the downpipe ruptured on mine, but you may have luck wrapping the hell out of it then reinstalling. That's all I can think of for now. Feel free to ask any questions you might have.
                        No it was a new kit. I did not buy the intercooler from BG. I'm sure I will have to do some more work on heat protection. I intend on wrapping the rest of the hot side and going from there. As for the tranny it has an AOD in it now that has had a few tweeks done to it by the guys over at Brights Transmission in Fort Worth. Its got some of upgrades that were taken from a 4R70W, Transgo Shift Kit, and one of the stock bodied high stall converters from the boys at PTC in K-dale. As for my AC I have a feeliing its going to be an ongoing problem with it all being so close to the hot stuff. But I will just kind of address that as the issues come along.

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                        • #27
                          I'd be weary of using/buying anything from Brights. They did a trans in my friends car (before I met him). We changed motors and decided to check out the trans just in case - it was supposed to be similar to what you describe. They charged him something like 2500. (this is in a fox btw).

                          When Mike took the trans apart, the steels had rust that was scotch-brited away. The clutches were all mismatched used pieces and the gears he had them install howled like a bitch.

                          It was 6months later, nothing he could do about it.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Lason View Post
                            That wiring will be toast in no time. Seriously you need to get all that stuff away from the hotside.

                            Here is what happened to some wiring loom I had that was about a foot away from my headers on my old turbo setup. This was after a week of tuning too, luckily the wiring was ok just the loom was melted.
                            I'll have to see what I can do. Problem is I have to have those wires running down there because thats what plugs in to the MAF meter.

                            Originally posted by slownbmta View Post
                            Nice build. How far do you think those 50lb injectors will get you?
                            Not exactly sure. I would hope they could get me to 600+. I think the car will be capable of that although I don't know that I will cruise around with it on kill.

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                            • #29
                              trans crossmember looks like it might have been installed backwards
                              Ring and pinion specialist

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by turbostang View Post
                                I'd be weary of using/buying anything from Brights. They did a trans in my friends car (before I met him). We changed motors and decided to check out the trans just in case - it was supposed to be similar to what you describe. They charged him something like 2500. (this is in a fox btw).

                                When Mike took the trans apart, the steels had rust that was scotch-brited away. The clutches were all mismatched used pieces and the gears he had them install howled like a bitch.

                                It was 6months later, nothing he could do about it.
                                I'm not sure how long ago that was but Larry was the guy that built mine. He was a customer of mine when I was on the tool truck and after going in talking to him, and watching build other transmissions, and just seeing the way he approaches his job I felt pretty good about it. But only time will truely tell.

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