wideband guages

[junk racing]

Whos using what and how do they like it? I have no expierience with any of them. A friend has an AEM and swears by it, Any good?

[sickpony]

I thought I was pretty good at tuning holley carbs until I got my first wideband (autometer digital) then I picked up half a second consistently in the eighth mile in my s-10 blazer. Bought another one for the stang and tuned my supercharged efi setup with it without destroying it. Awesome little tool.

[DON SVO]

LM-1 is a great wideband. Used them all the time with standalones.

[2165 Turbo Rail]

I have the NGK NTK AFX

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NGK-NTK-Wide-Band-Powerdex-AFX-Air-Fuel-Gauge-Wideband-/400268046226?hash=item5d31d5af92&item=400268046226&pt=Car_Audio_Video&vxp=mtr

[BadGN1]

I've been using the PLX wideband. It's a simple setup & does what I need it to do. the AEM has a good reputation from what I hear.

[4EyedTurd]

LM-1 is a great wideband. Used them all the time with standalones.

Can you hook a normal gauge up in place of an lm1? I've got an lm1 but want a normal gauge instead

[shumpertdavid]

I'm running innovate lm-1 with their xd-16 gauge, replacement sensors are fairly cheap from oreilly's. You can take the number from the sensor that comes with the kit and they can cross reference it, and they're usually free lifetime replacement

Edit, I'm using the LC-1 rather, not lm-1

[juiceweezl]

I have an AEM, and it works perfectly. It's always matched exactly what the dyno reads.

[VaderTT]

aem x100000.

Lc1 used to require multiple ground wires including a full lenth ground (may still or may have changed). I've used them 3 times with little to no success. Switched to the aem and will use it in everyone of my vehicles.

Just bought another aem for my new build.

Lots of threads on ttf.com about the innovate products, lol.

[turbostang]

I had innovate sensors for years now and occasionally had many problems burning up sensors.

I recently discovered the heatsink they sell, but didn't want to buy it. lol.

I used an aluminum disc as a heat sink - it's a 4" drop from a hole saw cut out. Drilled out the center so the O2 threads would fit through, put it under the sensor and never had another problem.

So, now, with the 'fix' - I use Innovate stuff. Currently using the LC16/XD setup as well.

[dville_gt]

I use an Innovate LC1 and it works great. Right now I don't have a physical gauge I just log with my laptop constantly, but I am thinking about buying a Autometer air fuel gauge (the one that is designed to work with narrow band sensors) and the hooking it to the 0-1v output of the Innovate controller. Normally those narrowband gauges don't work well but that is because of the narrow band sensors, from what I have heard when used like I want to they work great, granted it doesn't have a digi read out, but I'm not going to be able to read the gauge down the track anyways, I'd rather have the LEDs in my face so I can see if it goes super lean or rich for some reason. Plus I like having all matching Phantom gauges.

Anyone else used the 0-1v output of the LC1 with an Autometer air fuel gauge?

[turbostang]

I use an Innovate LC1 and it works great. Right now I don't have a physical gauge I just log with my laptop constantly, but I am thinking about buying a Autometer air fuel gauge (the one that is designed to work with narrow band sensors) and the hooking it to the 0-1v output of the Innovate controller. Normally those narrowband gauges don't work well but that is because of the narrow band sensors, from what I have heard when used like I want to they work great, granted it doesn't have a digi read out, but I'm not going to be able to read the gauge down the track anyways, I'd rather have the LEDs in my face so I can see if it goes super lean or rich for some reason. Plus I like having all matching Phantom gauges.

Anyone else used the 0-1v output of the LC1 with an Autometer air fuel gauge?

Why on earth would you run a narrow band? I mean, if it's going lean enough to trigger the light - you can't let off fast enough.

[dville_gt]

Why on earth would you run a narrow band? I mean, if it's going lean enough to trigger the light - you can't let off fast enough.

No, I was saying the gauges were designed to work with narrowband sensors in that they respond to a 0-1v output. The lc1 controller can output 0-1v and you can set the range however you'd like. My thinking is that you could use that gauge with the 0-1v output. I never understood the pure digital gauges since I can't imagine trying to drive And read the output. At least with the colored LEDs I could see if it's in the normal range at a glance then look at the logs after the run for specifics.

[dville_gt]

Talking about using this gauge with the 0-1v lc1 output and set the range such that 11.5:1 is dead middle of the gauge.

[turbostang]

No, I was saying the gauges were designed to work with narrowband sensors in that they respond to a 0-1v output. The lc1 controller can output 0-1v and you can set the range however you'd like. My thinking is that you could use that gauge with the 0-1v output. I never understood the pure digital gauges since I can't imagine trying to drive And read the output. At least with the colored LEDs I could see if it's in the normal range at a glance then look at the logs after the run for specifics.

Right, that's what I'm saying - why on earth would you do that?

If you do - you will find yourself constantly flipping your eyes back and forth expecting to see that light come on. Even a slight missfire (that pumps raw oxygen out the exhaust) will light up that light. The first 20 passes, you'll chase your tail wondering why that light is flickering - when there's nothing wrong with it.

Once you get used to your car - you'll be surprised what you can recall reading a guage going down the track (assuming it's within reasonable eyesight). Now, obviously that doesn't apply to a TFD, or a 4 second 10.5 outlaw car.. but you get the idea.