Originally posted by turbostang
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Originally posted by dville_gt View Postwhat do you suggest on a pump gas car @ ~12psi? sam provided me with a base timing table and it tapers down to 10* in the higher cyl mass areas. I bumped it to 11* on my last pass but obviously that didn't help my problems going down the track!
We'd be running 25-30* on 5 psi on race gas, but we're not running through the range like that - mainly staging.
I'd say on 5 psi, 100-150*, and a full pass you'd be fine on 20-24*. You'd have to do some tuning and sneaking up on it to be sure..
If that compression ratio is up around 10:1 or higher, then drop it back further - maybe something like 15-20*.
All on 93.
*rich conditions and low timing knock out ring lands. Also, more timing will make your hooking up problems worse etc. Sneak up on timing cautiously and don't stay in it if it's breaking up. (as if I had to say that, but you get the idea)
FWIW, I don't recommend going straight to kill mode, but sneak up on the higher timing tables. Watch AF, read plugs, read EVERYTHING in the logs...
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Been there, done that ouch..
Originally posted by shumpertdavid View PostSo; 23 psi, 12 degrees timing, 93 octane, and pegging the wideband in the car and dyno's at full rich can cause this \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ . After 3 partial pulls in the lean.
88 LX Coupe 444 Twin 88's
Finally went down track!!
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Originally posted by turbostang View PostEvery car is different, as is every engine and every turbo setup - Sam knows LSx cars, and not sure what he's doing, maybe assuming high IAT's.IDK.
We'd be running 25-30* on 5 psi on race gas, but we're not running through the range like that - mainly staging.
I'd say on 5 psi, 100-150*, and a full pass you'd be fine on 20-24*. You'd have to do some tuning and sneaking up on it to be sure..
If that compression ratio is up around 10:1 or higher, then drop it back further - maybe something like 15-20*.
All on 93.
*rich conditions and low timing knock out ring lands. Also, more timing will make your hooking up problems worse etc. Sneak up on timing cautiously and don't stay in it if it's breaking up. (as if I had to say that, but you get the idea)
FWIW, I don't recommend going straight to kill mode, but sneak up on the higher timing tables. Watch AF, read plugs, read EVERYTHING in the logs...
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Originally posted by Sam88gta1 View PostAt that point it would all be my fault as I would be the one that sent him the tune.
Only issue I am having now is the car going lean right when I hammer it, so in the 100kpa zone it seems to want more fuel then 110 and 120kpa areas, seems counter intuitive, it would seem like as the pressure builds it would want more and more fuel, but there seems to be a "bump" in the VE table right when I go WOT.
I took my fiance and a good friend of mine out in it last night. My fiance, who is in to cars and was excited to go out in it was so upset after the first couple of WOT blast that she threatened me with permanent abstinence should I punch it one more time, she also gave me a blank check to do whatever is needed to get it to not spin the tires at highway speeds! My buddy, who is also in to cars/racing basically told me, "that's enough" after the 2nd time it spun the tires while cruising down the highway without downshifting! I'd say that marks the first stage of the project, create a car that scares the passenger into begging you to not punch it any more!
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Originally posted by dville_gt View PostI'd say that marks the first stage of the project, create a car that scares the passenger into begging you to not punch it any more!
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Originally posted by Lason View PostDo you have adjustable upper control arms out back?
Change tires and check your pinion angle and adjust using the top links. The antiroll bar is only going to control launching to the left or right.
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Originally posted by dville_gt View PostIf you find yourself in the n. Arlington area lemme know.
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Originally posted by dville_gt View PostI hope you do not really believe that should anything happen to this motor I would blame a guy who has helped me immensely with the tune out of pure generosity. My tune was in shambles when you started helping me out and the car seems to run excellent on the current tune. I have pointed more then a few folks to you when asked about tuning options and I appreciate your help.
Only issue I am having now is the car going lean right when I hammer it, so in the 100kpa zone it seems to want more fuel then 110 and 120kpa areas, seems counter intuitive, it would seem like as the pressure builds it would want more and more fuel, but there seems to be a "bump" in the VE table right when I go WOT.
You need to monitor fuel pressure when the boost starts to come in and when getting above 80% throttle. You have the fpr boost referenced correct?
I set the timing low so that you could get the VE table and boost in order before adding timing.
Take baby steps and you will not hurt anything. This early on in the tuning you should focus on tuning the car more and giving rides less. You can't give rides with a broke engine.
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Originally posted by Sam88gta1 View PostI have to make sure that the tune file I send out is safe if I am not there to tune the vehicle. You just never know what someone will do in the event of an engine failure.
You need to monitor fuel pressure when the boost starts to come in and when getting above 80% throttle. You have the fpr boost referenced correct?
I set the timing low so that you could get the VE table and boost in order before adding timing.
Take baby steps and you will not hurt anything. This early on in the tuning you should focus on tuning the car more and giving rides less. You can't give rides with a broke engine.
The FPR is boost referenced, and I've verified it climbs 1:1 w/boost settling in ~55psi under full boost. I have my IFR scaled appropriately. Strange thing is I am showing high duty cycle for the amount of HP I should be pussing, at 6200rpm and 12psi I am showing 80% duty on 80lb injectors. Not sure how much faith to put into the duty cycle calculation, but I've seen cars with huge power on 80lb injectors (pump gas).
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