Hooked up the volt meter and pulled all fuses and unplugged the alternator and still didn't find where its coming from. What's next on finding where this irritating draw is coming from?
car specs are in my sig
2004 Mustang GT: BBK shorty headers, BBK O/R X, Flowmaster catback, JLT cold air, Trickflow 75mm TB and Plenum, UD pulleys, upper and lower CA's, 3.73, SCT XCal 2 ---- SOLD
i looked through the thread you started and i've done everything they suggested...had a test light on the negative terminal of battery, pulled all fuses and disconnected alternator and the light stayed on the whole time
2004 Mustang GT: BBK shorty headers, BBK O/R X, Flowmaster catback, JLT cold air, Trickflow 75mm TB and Plenum, UD pulleys, upper and lower CA's, 3.73, SCT XCal 2 ---- SOLD
Newer cars have modules (computers) that have to go to sleep (shut down), some can take anywhere from 30 minutes to hours once the key is removed from ignition or a door is opened or closed, fwiw
Best way to test for a draw is to use a volt meter with the ability to measure amps, place meter on highest amp setting, usually 10 amp. Remove positive OR negative cable, connect negative meter lead to negative battery terminal or positive meter lead to positive battery terminal depending on which cable you disconnect, connect remaining meter lead to disconnected battery terminal. You will now be measuring the electrical drain. Monitor for next 30 Min to hour to see what it shows, it needs to be less than .1 amp, .0xx amp would be acceptable. I usually use small pair of vise grips to hold lead to battery terminal and push other lead under insulation of cable to hold it.
this shit is irritating...I have to drive it everyday to keep it charged. If I leave it sitting for 36 hours, battery will be dead. Is that a big draw?
2004 Mustang GT: BBK shorty headers, BBK O/R X, Flowmaster catback, JLT cold air, Trickflow 75mm TB and Plenum, UD pulleys, upper and lower CA's, 3.73, SCT XCal 2 ---- SOLD
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