Racetronix Fuel System on C5

[Trick Pony]

Is anyone familiar with the Racetronix fuel system kits for the C5? Racetronix did not even respond when I asked them for a system or wiring diagram. I've looked on Corvette forums to but did't find anything useful.
All I have to go on regarding what my car has is some receipts that don't give part numbers. Just shows Racetronix fuel kit with pump and upgraded wiring.
Basically, my C5 has only 5 psi fuel pressure now when I turn the key on and I don't hear the pump come on at all although I can hear the relay click. I know there is an additional pump on these that pumps fuel between the two tanks so I would assume that's probably where the 5 psi is coming from.
I've already checked the fuse and relay and they are good. Next I plan to measure voltage on the pins for these at the fuse block when the key is first turned on and go from there. I know it could be the fuel pump itself, PCM, or wiring/grounding issue and I'm proficient with troubleshooting.
Just wondering if anyone has info or diagrams on the Racetronix stuff so I can understand what the system includes, and how it is hooked up and if it introduces any other possible points of failure that I need to know about. About all I could find was pictures of components and it looks like there is alternator direct power wiring, aftermarket pump, a 40A relay and 'pump booster interface' connector whatever that might be.

TIA

[00pooterSS]

I don't know about c5's but on my F body the racetronix wiring is a plug to plug system at the rear of the car. It has a main feed wire from the alternator that runs down the car and back to the back. Then there is a relay and 2 connectors. One connector connects to the pump and the other to the factory connector on the vehicle. This is supposed to boost power supplied to the pump. Again, I don't know about the vette's but on a camaro/firebird that is how it works.

If you are only making 5 psi it sounds like the pump, either way you'll need to drop the tank and check hoses for splitting, wiring, and the fuel pressure regulator.

Good luck with it.

[Trick Pony]

I was able to find the direct power that runs from the alternator to the pump. The 20A fuse there was blown. The plastic was melted pretty good. I replaced the fuse and ran the car for a while and it didn't heat up or blow. Didn't get a chance to drive it yet.
The only time I've seen fuses get really hot like that is when you are passing a lot of power through a small wire like when you have a big amp with little power wires. This is 10 ga wire. If the pump is going bad could it be pulling a lot of current and heating up the fuse like that? I guess I'll change the fuel filter while I'm at it too.

[shumpertdavid]

I've seen a loose terminal in a fuse holder cause excessive best and melt a fuse many times before

[dville_gt]

I've seen this when the pump is on it's way out too, drawing a lot more power then it should. I replaced the fuse a time or two before it finally crapped the bed.

[00pooterSS]

I was able to find the direct power that runs from the alternator to the pump. The 20A fuse there was blown. The plastic was melted pretty good. I replaced the fuse and ran the car for a while and it didn't heat up or blow. Didn't get a chance to drive it yet.
The only time I've seen fuses get really hot like that is when you are passing a lot of power through a small wire like when you have a big amp with little power wires. This is 10 ga wire. If the pump is going bad could it be pulling a lot of current and heating up the fuse like that? I guess I'll change the fuel filter while I'm at it too.

Absolutely yes, I see it with radiator cooling fan motors the most. Rarely with fuel pumps though but it's an electric motor so it's possible.

I would contact Racetronix and make sure that 20A is the right size also, people throw fuses in holes just to get by and don't realize the damage it can cause. (Not saying you did that but the person before could have, it's good to confirm)

First off replace the inline fuse holder with a good quality fuse holder and do some testing to figure out what happened. Do an amp draw test on the circuit, I have a amp draw tester that has a test tip shaped like a fuse, you just plug it in and read what the amp draw is. I got it from Matco but have seen it in other places. In other words you pull the fuse and plug this tool in in its place, it has a digital readout that will give you a reading. You want to make sure the amp draw does not exceed the fuse rating and hopefully is not riding right on the borderline of the fuse rating either. I believe I saw one at Harbor Freight too.

And of course make sure your inline fuse holder is rated to hold at minimum the recommended fuse amperage. (I know that sounds captain obvious-ish, but some of the shit I see....)

[Trick Pony]

Thanks for the advice, guys. I will replace the fuse holder and borrow my buddy's inductive current meter. Hopefully it's the fuse holder and not the pump.

[Trick Pony]

First off replace the inline fuse holder with a good quality fuse holder

What brand fuse holder would you consider to be good?

[00pooterSS]

What brand fuse holder would you consider to be good?

Shit man good question. I would try a stereo shop like car toys or best buy, probably your best bet for a quality piece. I would venture to say you will be able to tell how good the quality is just by looking at it.

If it only runs a 20 amp or smaller fuse an off the shelf autozone holder should be fine, I just wouldn't go pick one up at walmart for $0.99 or something along those lines.


Doing a quick search I came across this guy, pretty nice piece.

http://www.amazon.com/JT-Products-20325F-Line-Waterproof/dp/B002UZQG3S

This one is pretty nice as well, this one and the one above are rated for up to 30 amps and have 12 gauge wiring.

http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHG-Holder-Protective/dp/B000DCN9KS/ref=pd_cp_e_3