Parts List

[TEAMJACOB]

you may want to click the ad in my sig.

Was thinking the same thing

[89FivePointOh]

Can you pull, disassemble, reassemble top end, and put it back in? If so, new pistons will run you 375ish and I'm sure the labor will run less than 225 to just have it honed and the new pistons put in

I have taken the top end off twice now to fix other problems from the previous owner. The part that I have no clue about is the bottom end. I have no clue on doing the cam bearings, main/rod bearings, installing pistons, etc.

I would need someone to do that and prefer that someone also install/torque heads as well.....

Thoughts?

[majorownage]

I have taken the top end off twice now to fix other problems from the previous owner. The part that I have no clue about is the bottom end. I have no clue on doing the cam bearings, main/rod bearings, installing pistons, etc.

I would need someone to do that and prefer that someone also install/torque heads as well.....

Thoughts?

Rebuild a stock 5.0 bottom end?

lol

Run it till it blows, install new one.

[Diabolic]

[QUOTE=majorownage;516654]Thats why you create your own maf function on a dyno. Almost every single MAF meter created should have a known or available MAF Transfer sheet. This lists the voltages and the corresponding air flow values to those voltages. This will get you in the ballpark, but differences in tubing before the meter can cause the numbers to become inaccurate. Most fuel injectors have flowed values that should be input in the tune and left alone. Let the car drive with the known MAF Transfer table values in closed loop. Create an Excel spreadsheet that shows MAF Voltage, existing #'s per minute of air, Ideal fuel trim, (most likely 1 in closed loop), new calculated fuel trim, % off, new #'s per minute. It's simple math and will really dial in the MAF curve correctly in the range that can be obtained in closed loop. Tuning open loop values higher up the curve can be done in a similar fashon.

DERP

MAFs are not calibrated to injector sizes...lol[/QUOTE] That's funny I could have sworn I saw some BBK, Pro-M, Granatelli, etc......meters calibrated to injector size. I realize that the injector clibration is in the tune, but he said he would get injectors and MAF when he got the blower. He never mentioned a tune. That would indicate buying a MAF meter that's calibrated to the injector size he wants to use. This is a bad idea on a supercharged car.

[majorownage]

Where did you copy paste this shit?

You a EEC will automatically correct the fuel trims while the car is in closed loop....it then extrapolates its learned values for higher load/mass flow rates.

This is pretty good, but its not 100%.

Stick the car on a dyno, datalog the commanded AFR and the AFR off the wideband.

This will give you how much your MAF transfer function is off.

For the "calibrated mafs and injectors" its a simple trick. Its not really a good solution. All the EEC knows from the MAF is a voltage. With a bigger maf, the voltage is lower for a given flow rate. The EEC DOESNT KNOW its true mass flow rate. If the stock injectors were used, the car would run lean, but a set of larger injectors is used. This is a BAND-AID solution and is a shitty compromise!

A quater horse is a tuner.

[Diabolic]

Where did you copy paste this shit? I didnt copy and paste anything.You a EEC will automatically correct the fuel trims while the car is in closed loop....it then extrapolates its learned values for higher load/mass flow rates. This assumes the wideband is accurate and is located in the correct position of the exhaust stream. Hint, the tailpipe is the wrong place. I would much rather tune in closed loop. I trust the narrrowband sensors far more than the wideband sensor. Especially when you have two sensors and they are playing on the same team and giving off the same input. Make the adjustments to the Transfer table based off the narrowband readings and the Hegos will swing far less. Plus if there is a system failure and the car needs to run in open loop then there are no worries because it's spot on even without the oxygen sensor input. Nice safety net to have with a supercharged vehicle.This is pretty good, but its not 100%.

Stick the car on a dyno, datalog the commanded AFR and the AFR off the wideband.

This will give you how much your MAF transfer function is off.

For the "calibrated mafs and injectors" its a simple trick. Its not really a good solution. All the EEC knows from the MAF is a voltage. With a bigger maf, the voltage is lower for a given flow rate. The EEC DOESNT KNOW its true mass flow rate. If the stock injectors were used, the car would run lean, but a set of larger injectors is used. This is a BAND-AID solution and is a shitty compromise! Why are you bringing this back up. I stated this in my very first post. It's not a good option.
A quater horse is a tuner.

I realize this as I have one on all of my vehicles.

[majorownage]

I realize this as I have one on all of my vehicles.

I agree.

How do you correct your mass transfer funtion in high rpms?

If you force close loop, you will run 14.6 AFR at wide open throttle....doesnt sound good for your engine.

[Diabolic]

I only adjust my MAF transfer in closed loop up to 3.0 volts. I get this high by pulling 5 degrees of timing globally first to make sure I don't detonate. Set my RPM vs Load for OL to .85 Load up to 3800 or 4000 rpm. When I adjust the range above 3.0 volts I set the load for OL to 0 and run in 2nd gear right off idle to 6400 RPM's I command 12.2 nice and safe then make 2 or 3 passes. Divide my Actual AFR say 12.9 by my target AFR of 12.2=1.057 then multiply that value by the MAF transfer table value I'm wanting to adjust. I actually target a 12.5 AFR once it's dialed in because I want 12.7 but according to my Hego sensors, my wideband is off a little, so I make adjustments for it. If I were smart I would just stop using AFR all together and tune for Lambda. I'm just dumb I guess. Would make E85 tuning 100% easier.

[majorownage]

I only adjust my MAF transfer in closed loop up to 3.0 volts. I get this high by pulling 5 degrees of timing globally first to make sure I don't detonate. Set my RPM vs Load for OL to .85 Load up to 3800 or 4000 rpm. When I adjust the range above 3.0 volts I set the load for OL to 0 and run in 2nd gear right off idle to 6400 RPM's I command 12.2 nice and safe then make 2 or 3 passes. Divide my Actual AFR say 12.9 by my target AFR of 12.2=1.057 then multiply that value by the MAF transfer table value I'm wanting to adjust. I actually target a 12.5 AFR once it's dialed in because I want 12.7 but according to my Hego sensors, my wideband is off a little, so I make adjustments for it. If I were smart I would just stop using AFR all together and tune for Lambda. I'm just dumb I guess. Would make E85 tuning 100% easier.

I've heard of peeps tuning using a narrow band by pulling all the timing, forcing closed loop, and hitting 14.6 AFR WOT, but with only 2-3 degrees in it....I bet this would work if you didn't sustain it. Seems like a good way to nuke your valves.

[Whiteboy]

It is the description from Late Model Restoration

I have a shortblock zero miles forged pistons,e-cam,timing cover oil pump,
lifters, oil pan $1,500

[Damnittsteve]

I have a shortblock zero miles forged pistons,e-cam,timing cover oil pump,
lifters, oil pan $1,500

step off whitey, hes buying my shit