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2003 Mustang Gt won't start.

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  • #16
    Ok it has spark.

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    • #17
      Yea i'm sure it isn't fuel, and yea it had a miss for a while but i fixed it with a new coil.

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      • #18
        ya do what was said and ground out the plug in the coil and see how spark is... if not continue back until you figure out ignition issue...nm you said you have spark

        Check fuel... if not continue back until you find issue... and nm you said your sure with fuel

        If both of those are good the only thing i can figure are CKPS or some kind of compression issue...
        1993 Vibrant Red Cobra #1741.

        If you want more inches - Stroke it!!!

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        • #19
          I meant to say i'm not sure if it's fuel lol my good. What is a way to check for fuel delivery without a fuel pressure gauge?

          Thanks for all the suggestions and help BTW

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Tko2v View Post
            I meant to say i'm not sure if it's fuel lol my good. What is a way to check for fuel delivery without a fuel pressure gauge?

            Thanks for all the suggestions and help BTW
            A gauge is needed.

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            • #21
              Are the plugs fouled? Flooded?
              2001 Ford Lightning Silver
              1993 Mustang GT Silver Frost Titanium
              1984 Bronco II 4X4 Silver & Red

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              • #22
                Not knocking original post, but in doing auto repair as my profession, these types of posts are almost annoying. There needes to be sticky for basic no start diagnostics. 3 basic things are needed; spark, fuel pressure, and compression.

                Spark, must be a hot white/blue arc. A HEI spark tester is best for all late model electronic ignitions. It simulates the stress the combustion process puts on the ignition system. It doesn't take a vast amount of spark to jump the small gap of a plug in outside conditions. However a spark plug in wire or coil will work to see of there is spark in general

                Fuel Pressure, you need a fuel pressure gauge to check this properly, just because when you push the shrader valve or disconnect a fuel line, gas shoots out doesn't confirm that there is adequate fuel pressure or volume. All fuel pumps should pump a minimum of a pint in thirty seconds. Most any decent pump will make a pint in 15. This is even true for mechanical pumps. As far as pressure goes, do your homework there's pressure specs from 5 psi to over a 100 depending on aoplication. Google your vehicle info, I'm sure you can find it there somewhere.

                Fuel again, injected cars have to have injector pulse. There is a simple tool called a noid light, you unplug the objectors, plug in the nous light, and crank the engine. If it flashes it pulses the light then you have injector pulse. Simple test, there have been rare cases where the Edmund could pulse tje nous light and not be able to pulse the objectors, but we'll not get into that.

                Last, compression, you need a gauge to check this also, most of the time you won't ne using this for no start problems as you rarely have all cylinders go dead at one time, its moat useful on diagnosing dead misses and running problems. Same with fuel pressure, you must specs for your application.

                Dtc's or check engine light codes can sometimes be helpful and other times send you on a wild goose chase. If you have access to a code reader then post them up

                There are others things such as timing, sensors, ecms and such, but try to cover the basics before posting. The more info provided the more exact our diagnosing your vehicles that we can't see, touch, hear.

                Advice can only be as good as the information given.
                Last edited by shumpertdavid; 11-23-2011, 12:44 PM.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Cobraman View Post
                  Flashing normally? Or very quickly?
                  If working correctly, it shouldn't be flashing at all. It should come on for a few seconds (solidly) and then go completely out. If it's staying on and flashing, there is a problem.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by juiceweezl View Post
                    If working correctly, it shouldn't be flashing at all. It should come on for a few seconds (solidly) and then go completely out. If it's staying on and flashing, there is a problem.
                    Yeah I guess you are right. I don't think fuel to the injectors is cut immediately though. As long as he cycles the fuel pump it should start and then die. When my pats system crapped out it could start, but it would immediately die.
                    2012 GT500

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                    • #25
                      If the theft light flashes when you turn the key to on, while cranking, or after cranking then the antitheft is activated. Try using a different chipped key if you have one, make sure you are not using an aftermarket cut key, unless its a pats key that's been programmed to your car. If your keys are all correct and its still flashing you'll have to take it somewhere that can reprogram the pats, or have a Tuner disable the system like Jeremy aka cobraman did a few months back.
                      Last edited by shumpertdavid; 11-20-2011, 11:55 AM.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by shumpertdavid View Post
                        If the theft light flashes when you turn the key to on, while cranking, or after cranking then the antitheft is activated. Try using a different chipped key if you have one, make sure you are not using an aftermarket cut key, unless its a pats key that's been programmed to your car. If your keys are all correct and its still flashing you'll have to take it somewhere that can reprogram the pats, or have a Tibet disable the system like Jeremy aka cobraman did a few months back.
                        lol.
                        2012 GT500

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                        • #27
                          Damn auto correct

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Cobraman View Post
                            Yeah I guess you are right. I don't think fuel to the injectors is cut immediately though. As long as he cycles the fuel pump it should start and then die. When my pats system crapped out it could start, but it would immediately die.
                            If it's flashing rapidly, the car will turnover but won't start. Like someone else posted, the PATS has activated. I replaced the transceiver in my column not long ago trying to correct some trouble I'm having. Mine will still mess up from time to time now. I think it's because the car sits, sometimes for a few months, with being driven. I often turn the battery off too.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by juiceweezl View Post
                              If it's flashing rapidly, the car will turnover but won't start. Like someone else posted, the PATS has activated. I replaced the transceiver in my column not long ago trying to correct some trouble I'm having. Mine will still mess up from time to time now. I think it's because the car sits, sometimes for a few months, with being driven. I often turn the battery off too.
                              Mine flashed rapidly and started. I could start it in 1st and dump the clutch and roll 40ft
                              2012 GT500

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                              • #30
                                Try disconnecting the battery for about ten minutes or try a different key maybe

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