Originally posted by turbostang
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I wouldn't be taking anything apart with time/budget considered.
I can't tell you how many cars I've worked on/tuned/built/raced that have a 'blower cam', 'nitrous cam', 'N/A cam' and made x,xxx HP and ran x.xx numbers (respective to what they should run).
I've ran several cars with B, E, F and stock cams and still made plenty of power to split a stock block. Maybe it takes a bit more boost, maybe a bit less boost.....
On the flip side of that coin, I can't tell you how many times a 'turbo cam' was a worse choice than what we had initially.
You have it, try it. It won't cost you a dime.
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what about issues with valve float with the large intake lift (.648intake), I am running springs that are good to .660, but I didn't know if the boost increases the chances of valve float or not. With this cam my PTV clearance is TIGHT as it sits (flat top pistons) so any valve float could be real bad.
On top of that the stock 317's supposedly only flow up to about .600 lift after that they fall off, thus the .612/.608 seems a little more in line, but again, I'm a newb and boost may change all of that. I'd rather the power be made at lower RPM since the rod bolts in these motors are not a fan of higher rpm, the current cam wants serious rpm to make power, figured the lower duration/lift would move the power a little lower.
Appreciate all of the input everyone.
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Originally posted by dville_gt View Postwhat about issues with valve float with the large intake lift (.648intake), I am running springs that are good to .660, but I didn't know if the boost increases the chances of valve float or not. With this cam my PTV clearance is TIGHT as it sits (flat top pistons) so any valve float could be real bad.
On top of that the stock 317's supposedly only flow up to about .600 lift after that they fall off, thus the .612/.608 seems a little more in line, but again, I'm a newb and boost may change all of that. I'd rather the power be made at lower RPM since the rod bolts in these motors are not a fan of higher rpm, the current cam wants serious rpm to make power, figured the lower duration/lift would move the power a little lower.
Appreciate all of the input everyone.
I don't know that I'd be overly concerned with where flow starts and stops, you're creating flow with that turbo
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Originally posted by turbostang View PostLOL, my bad, I missed that part - I didn't realize that the cam you have is that big, yes, in that case - I probalby would be looking for something different. If for anyting, to gain PTV clearance. How much clearance are we talking about anyways? You don't want to limit the RPM range too much though, as it makes converter choices a little more difficult when it has to be able to stall to say - 3500-4000, and yet lock up at 6300 (like my car was).
I don't know that I'd be overly concerned with where flow starts and stops, you're creating flow with that turbo
Don't know what my current PTV is, all I know is that it has to be close, TSP said it'd clear (and obviously it did), but they said I couldn't mill the heads at all.
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This is where I disagree partially to Brooks answer of flow numbers don't matter with boost...my response would be well over everyone's head here. I will say if port numbers didn't matter, everyone going stupid fast would be running out of the box ports. Teardown Big Daddys heads and you would not see stock ports. Wolfe...same thing.
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