rings don't seat if you are being a pussy. cylinder pressure behind the ring drives it into the cylinder wall
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New SHORTBLOCK. Break-in advice???
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Originally posted by robs97snake View PostI'm happy that the insurance covered the $5,800 repair and I only had the $500 deductible07 f250-family truckster
08 Denali -baby hauler
52 f1-rust bucket
05 Jeep tj. Buggy
livin the double-wide dream
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Originally posted by robs97snake View PostAnother question....should I wait until I get the first oil change to remove all the ring and cylinder bits or go crazy now and THEN get my oil changed?????When the government pays, the government controls.
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Originally posted by turbos66coupe View PostThere have been tons of research done in this area and he has a valid ?. Unfortunatly almost all of the ring seat happens in the first heat cycle an engine goes trough. After that it doesn't matter. I alway run a fresh motor long enough to make sure there are no leaks and then I take it out and leave it in first gear, hammer on it and let off an let then engine compression brake it self this really puts load on the rings and seats them in. Do this three or four times, let it cool and change the oil. After that its fair game.
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Originally posted by jnobles06 View Postx3. was told by my engine builder to drive it at about 2k for a few minutes, then 3k, then hammer it, then take it home, and change the oil. he said that is all the break in that is needed.
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The engine in my race car has never had an easy day in its life. Almost every time it starts it sees RPM north of 7k with a lot of WOT. In fact, I think the easiest time it had was when I first put the engine in a car and started it to check for leaks, it ran 30 seconds or so, it was shut down and taken to a dyno, and that happened in 2006, hasn't been freshened up since. Food for thought.
Edit: I've replaced the valve springs in it once, and I did the intake gaskets at the end of last season, it will get a freshen after the end of the year.
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