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Geo Metro 1.0L 3cyl, hard start, wont idle.

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  • #16
    Originally posted by SonicblueGT03 View Post
    Or do what I did to my wifes (Metro vert), pill it till you kill it. Took a 125 shot to kill that little POS.
    HA! Thats the same thing I did with my Geo Vert but all it did was take off for 5 seconds and completely melted off cyl 3 exhaust valve. That car still ran on 2 cylinders until I got home to swap motors. I bought it for $125 and painted like the General Lee and put the dixie horns on it.
    To the OP go to geometroforum.com those guys will get you back running. They are fanatics and really good at diagnosing problems on the 3cyls.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by kdventura73 View Post
      HA! Thats the same thing I did with my Geo Vert but all it did was take off for 5 seconds and completely melted off cyl 3 exhaust valve. That car still ran on 2 cylinders until I got home to swap motors. I bought it for $125 and painted like the General Lee and put the dixie horns on it.
      To the OP go to geometroforum.com those guys will get you back running. They are fanatics and really good at diagnosing problems on the 3cyls.
      Been doing a bunch of reading over there, problem is this thing is a hybrid/hackjob so who knows what's on it, where it came from, etc. Most of the hoses and passages they recommend I clean are plugged and unused at this point. The buggy ran fine for the 4 or 5 hours (over the course of a few weeks) before it started acting up. Then all at once...it just decided idling was for fools.

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      • #18
        Pull a plug and see if it is running rich. The earliest Metros (actually, a Chevy Sprint) 3 cylinder engines were carbed. They are Suzuki engines. If it is a true Weber carb, they use much lower fuel pressure versus normal carbs, like holleys, etc, like 4 psi.

        Stevo
        Originally posted by SSMAN
        ...Welcome to the land of "Fuck it". No body cares, and if they do, no body cares.

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        • #19
          It's not running rich, all 3 plugs were a good brown color, but i swapped in some NGK's for good measure.

          Yes, it's a weber.
          Last edited by lowthreeohz; 10-23-2011, 02:27 AM.

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          • #20
            Okay, looks like i'm working with a weber 32/36. All jets are clean and bowl didn't have any junk in it.

            with the air filter off it will idle high now.. i'm guessing around 2k rpm's. I checked the base plate for cracks, didn't see anything, and im not finding any vacuum orifices that plugging/capping makes any difference with. Going to grab a timing light in the morning and see how that looks.. but otherwise im completely stumped.

            I'm really starting to get frustrated, partly because the damn thing ran fine for a while then just quit.

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            • #21
              Spray some carb cleaner around, when it revs up you found your leak.

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              • #22
                sounds like a vac leak that would cause high idle. get out the carb spray like mentioned see if you can find the leak. or just hook up the N20 and put it out of its misery afterall it is a geo...

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                • #23
                  Wiring issue. Found a faulty inline fuse/holder coming from the main battery. Weird.. but seems to have fixed it.

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