Tuning a stock fox.?

[91CoupeMike]

Ok I know the power gains wont be much, if any at all.

But what about power under the curve? Would changing the timing tables, shutting off egr and smog help with the cars performance? I read something about tip in retard and I'd like to shut that off, because I think that is what causes my car to skip a beat when I tip the throttle off of idle.

Also, if I were to go to a larger maf and shortie headers w/ a prochamber what kind of numbers would i see from that?

I've already bumped the timing 3* over base and set the tps. I don't have an adjustable FPR but I figure the stock pressure is ideal anyways.

Any input welcome.

Btw: my goal for this car is to make the most power, and make it run the best with stock NON ported parts. I would like to keep the stock headers for as long as possible too.

I'll be going to the dyno day at truestreet and I'm hoping for ~230rwhp.

Car has, e fans, pullies, off road h, and Mac short ram intake, with a short belt.

[91CoupeMike]

I also run 93 octane all the time. Not because I have to, just peice of mind I guess. So I have room for more timing with the increase in octane.

Also, e85. Thoughts? Seems like a lot of work but how much more power would it make? 10? 20?

[Vertnut]

I would really be surprised if it made close to 230 at the wheels. Most made about 200 or less when stock, and I'm not sure you have 30 hp in mods/changes. I'm sure you've read up on it, but timing advances don't always work (in times or HP gains), and there are many articles about mods/bolt-ons and their "real-world" gains.

[91CoupeMike]

I would really be surprised if it made close to 230 at the wheels. Most made about 200 or less when stock, and I'm not sure you have 30 hp in mods/changes. I'm sure you've read up on it, but timing advances don't always work (in times or HP gains), and there are many articles about mods/bolt-ons and their "real-world" gains.

I agree on my mods not adding up to 40rwhp gain. That seems high. What Im basing the 230rwhp off of is, supercoupe had a coupe with similar mods and it made 236rwhp.

And to trap 81.7 mph on the 1/8th at 3050lbs comes out to 230-240rwhp.

And we will see what it puts down on nov 12th!

More so what I was looking for in a tune was making it better above 4000rpm and cutting the egr/smog shit out of the ECM so I can put my CEL bulb back in.

[mk5.0]

Hci....

[91CoupeMike]

Hci....

In time, I want to see what this stock shit is capable of.

There are builds out there I've seen not even run close to what my car runs at the track, it's old school, it's already been done. But I want to be able to say I did that.

Plus, I think it's fun to say it's got a stock motor.

[Diabolic]

You would see more or a gain if it were an auto car. There is no tip in retard on GUF strategies like there is in the 94-95 5.0 cars. You could probably shave some et by altering the stock timing curve to give you 30+ degrees of timing at wot across the board from 2000-5000 rpm instead of ramping it up like the factory curve. Theat may not translate to any peak increase in power but will result in more average hp. You could also dial in your AFR so that it's a nice and flat 12.7-13.3 from start to finish at wot. I'm not sure if the GUF strategies add or subtract fuel for high or low ECT temps like when hot lapping, but if the strategy does this, then the adders, subtractors, multipliers, could be turned off to keep a repeatable AFR.

[91CoupeMike]

^ solid post, and I think at higher ECT it will add fuel to cool down the cylinders. So turning that off would make it more consistent. Having a consistent AFR and set timing table would do wonders over the stock tune. I currently run the a9p because my car was originally an auto car converted to 5spd. I have an a9l but was told if I swapped it out it could damage the auto harness.. Was told that by a few people here. Either way 0-2000 rpm it just gets +10* timing.

That would make the car run better.

My goal, unrealistic as it is, 7.9x on stock motor at 81-82 mph.

Possible?

[91CoupeMike]

Here's the timing curves.

http://seattleblueovals.com/index.php?topic=22.0;wap2

A9p Seems to be the better choice.

[majorownage]

Ok I know the power gains wont be much, if any at all.

But what about power under the curve? Would changing the timing tables, shutting off egr and smog help with the cars performance? I read something about tip in retard and I'd like to shut that off, because I think that is what causes my car to skip a beat when I tip the throttle off of idle.

Also, if I were to go to a larger maf and shortie headers w/ a prochamber what kind of numbers would i see from that?

I've already bumped the timing 3* over base and set the tps. I don't have an adjustable FPR but I figure the stock pressure is ideal anyways.

Any input welcome.

Btw: my goal for this car is to make the most power, and make it run the best with stock NON ported parts. I would like to keep the stock headers for as long as possible too.

I'll be going to the dyno day at truestreet and I'm hoping for ~230rwhp.

Car has, e fans, pullies, off road h, and Mac short ram intake, with a short belt.

Basically the only thing that will help would be more timing and a leaner afr. All the egr shit is turned off at wot. How large is your stock maf? Also, because the maf is not in its stock location, the maf transfer function that is stock really isn't valid anymore either. The maf transfer function will have to be developed on a dyno with datalogging, at least afr, rpm, and maf voltage.

[majorownage]

Just looked it up. Is the stock maf really 55mm? I would definitely swap over to at least an 80mm. I have one laying around my place you can have. You would need a tune though.

[91CoupeMike]

Yeah stock is 55 or smaller.

I had a 73mm but didn't have the Calibration tube.

Yeah I'd need to tune it with a larger one or it would be lean as balls.

Also, the maf is still in stock location, i want to relocate it by using the Anderson power pipe, and when I do that I'll go larger maf, and the only time you see power gain from maf is when you open up the exhaust with headers. Stock crimps are not great for power.

But helps with the stock idea lol.

[majorownage]

Yeah stock is 55 or smaller.

I had a 73mm but didn't have the Calibration tube.

Yeah I'd need to tune it with a larger one or it would be lean as balls.

Also, the maf is still in stock location, i want to relocate it by using the Anderson power pipe, and when I do that I'll go larger maf, and the only time you see power gain from maf is when you open up the exhaust with headers. Stock crimps are not great for power.

But helps with the stock idea lol.

You will see a gain of hp whenever the maf is too small and makes a vaccum on the motor side of the maf. The only way to tell would be to check it with a vaccum/pressure guage.

And a mac ram intake will change the maf transfer function slightly.

[Grape]

evan smith goes 10.90's with stock shit, tear your ass.............

[Z06killinsbf]

My recipe for speed for you: 1-3/4" LT's, 3" X-pipe, catback as someones straight through muffler. It doesn't have to be a bullet muffler but ditch those fucking chambered shits. Aluminum flywheel, 4.30's, suspension, big MAF, PowerPipe, good plugs, new timing chain and LIGHT LIGHT LIGHT weight valve train.

You could be losing 10-15hp with a slack timing chain throwing your valve timing events all out of whack.