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Best modular shop in DFW area?

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  • Best modular shop in DFW area?

    I am looknig to either go with a rebuild or install a supercharger on my 1997 Cobra. Looking for about 400rwhp and not confident in a shop up here in OKC. Any recommendations based on actual customer satisfaction for the DFW area?

  • #2
    rofl. In before the PTOGTFO
    Originally posted by Taya Kyle, American Gun
    There comes a time when honest debate, serious diplomatic efforts, and logical arguments have been exhausted and only men and women willing to take up arms against evil will suffice to save the freedom of a nation or continent.

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    • #3
      We would be happy to get you taken care of. Give us a call and we can go over your goals


      Thanks
      True Street MotorSports
      901 N McDonald St Suite 100
      McKinney TX 75069

      Shop 972.542.9886
      Fax 972. 542.9879


      Nitrous Refills $4lb


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      • #4
        Tons of good shops here, but we need tits before we tell you... (girlfriend, wife, sister , mother..)
        07 GT500
        05 SRT10
        88 turbocoupe T-bird
        93 Cobra
        86 coupe
        Ducati 848

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        • #5
          I've seen cars from OKC at HPP Racing in lewisville. Call them 972-395-9844

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          • #6
            in my experiences, if you want it done right , learn to do it yourself, but if you must take it to a shop, any of the site sponsor shops will help you out.
            2002 4.6L 5spd S281

            So fast i make speedy gonzales look like regular gonzales

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            • #7
              Originally posted by darren m View Post
              rofl. In before the ptogtfo
              wth?

              By the way...I have had my car for 8 years and been road racing for 5 years. I do all of my own suspension work, but mostly a part swapper. Not one for cracking engines on my own.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by SKMCOBRA View Post
                wth?

                By the way...I have had my car for 8 years and been road racing for 5 years. I do all of my own suspension work, but mostly a part swapper. Not one for cracking engines on my own.
                From the resident road racing guru....don't boost a 4V that you plan to take on track. Stay n/a...build a stroker with good heads and cams and don't destroy all your hard work with the heat associated with boost while on track. They just don't last.

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                • #9
                  A blower is the best bang for a buck

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by aggie97 View Post
                    From the resident road racing guru....don't boost a 4V that you plan to take on track. Stay n/a...build a stroker with good heads and cams and don't destroy all your hard work with the heat associated with boost while on track. They just don't last.
                    Yes and no. If you have a solid short block, then you will be fine. A centri blower would be ideal as a roots will build a ton of heat and your lap times will be very inconsistent.

                    Give us a call at the shop, we can take care of you!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Blackpony View Post
                      Yes and no. If you have a solid short block, then you will be fine. A centri blower would be ideal as a roots will build a ton of heat and your lap times will be very inconsistent.

                      Give us a call at the shop, we can take care of you!
                      Shortblock has NOTHING to do with it. Unless you get the motor and all the heat exchangers cool with seriously upgraded cooling, they all start shutting down about 3/4 through the session. They heat soak and start popping head gaskets when the driver doesn't back out of the pinging. Only boosted cars I have seen last are SOME subaru's and the Uber BMW's and Merc's.

                      Putting an intercooler in front of the radiator on a centri or turbo car just makes the problem worse.

                      Stay N/A, build for RPM and get the car light. No need for boost.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by aggie97 View Post
                        Shortblock has NOTHING to do with it. Unless you get the motor and all the heat exchangers cool with seriously upgraded cooling, they all start shutting down about 3/4 through the session. They heat soak and start popping head gaskets when the driver doesn't back out of the pinging. Only boosted cars I have seen last are SOME subaru's and the Uber BMW's and Merc's.

                        Putting an intercooler in front of the radiator on a centri or turbo car just makes the problem worse.

                        Stay N/A, build for RPM and get the car light. No need for boost.
                        i would just run water methanol injection and an oil cooler. that is what i am doing to mine. my current stock 4.6 motor went 90k with a non intercooled vortech on it. only reason i am pulling it is because a bad valve seal in the head.
                        Last edited by jnobles06; 09-21-2011, 08:19 PM.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by aggie97 View Post
                          Shortblock has NOTHING to do with it. Unless you get the motor and all the heat exchangers cool with seriously upgraded cooling, they all start shutting down about 3/4 through the session. They heat soak and start popping head gaskets when the driver doesn't back out of the pinging. Only boosted cars I have seen last are SOME subaru's and the Uber BMW's and Merc's.

                          Putting an intercooler in front of the radiator on a centri or turbo car just makes the problem worse.

                          Stay N/A, build for RPM and get the car light. No need for boost.
                          Tried anything boosted with E85? Just curious.
                          Originally posted by racrguy
                          What's your beef with NPR, because their listeners are typically more informed than others?
                          Originally posted by racrguy
                          Voting is a constitutional right, overthrowing the government isn't.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Broncojohnny View Post
                            Tried anything boosted with E85? Just curious.
                            that is what i was going to run, but i read an article that compared e85 and water methanol (sti, ~20psi). the article said they could add more timing with e85 and they picked up 8hp and 20tq with the e85 over water methanol. in my opinion the gain isn't worth the added cost to upgrade the injectors and fuel pump to run e85. not to mention having to go to certain stations to get the e85. here's the link if you want to read the whole article.

                            Last edited by jnobles06; 09-21-2011, 09:00 PM.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by jnobles06 View Post
                              that is what i was going to run, but i read an article that compared e85 and water methanol. the article said they could add more timing with e85 and they picked up 8hp and 20tq with the e85 over water methanol. in my opinion the gain isn't worth the added cost to upgrade the injectors and fuel pump to run e85. not to mention having to go to certain stations to get the e85. here's the link if you want to read the whole article.

                              http://www.drivingsports.com/site/20...nol-injection/
                              Not true at all. In most cases we have gained more power using e85 over c16! Water/meth injection is relative to nitrous in that it will only last so long. You will run out of the mixture quick.

                              e85 is a great alternative fuel that makes a huge difference in power, efficency, helps with controlling the engine temps in that is runs much cooler then gas, much cheaper then all other fuels, etc shall i continue? Yes, if you have a solid shortblock, a nicely setup air to air intercooled centri will work great on a road course car. The biggest problem i have seen, is guys trying to push a cast piston, powdered rod motor to over 400 rwhp and running the dog shit out of it at a track. A couple hundred bucks in a nice set of rods, pistons, rings and bearings will go a looong way. It is highly recommended to run a nicely size oil cooler especially if you are running a non self contained head unit such as a vortech. Keep in mind that with either a self contained or not, change your oil in both the engine and head unit regularly! This cannot be emphasized enough!

                              It is not an easy task to make 400 rwhp from a n/a mod motor and still be running pump gas. A properly setup car with a centri will do great.

                              For the non believers, do a quick search and you will find plenty of guys running similar setups to what i just mentioned with great success.

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