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Got the coupe started.

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  • Got the coupe started.

    Runs good, had a lot of condensation at first but now it's back to normal.

    I let it idle and the t stat open and it held 2 gallons of coolant.

    It was idling high and rpm was hanging a little so I swapped IACVs and it got better. Idles just below 1000. I checked for vac leaks and couldn't find any. I changed out the tps and backed out the idle screw and it did nothing.

    So I unhooked the battery and went to eat lunch. Hopefully it idles right.

    I did take it Down the road and drove the absolute dog shit out of it for about 6 miles. The power feels better but idk if it's just me but it feels like it used to have more in it.

    I also cleaned the MAF and egr plate.

    Damn turd.

    320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

    DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

  • #2
    what did you do to it random?
    Ring and pinion specialist

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    • #3
      Originally posted by greenbullitt View Post
      what did you do to it random?
      Sorry, just trying to figure out the hanging idle issue.

      I got to idle at about 750rpm now, but if you tip on it will hang at about 1100 then drop. It used to surge, now it hangs.

      Also, quick question. I don't have a wide band so I go with my sense of smell on the exhaust. It doesnt smell rich, and it's not smoke/steaming but if I cup my hand over the tip it comes back wet.

      Water is byproduct of combustion, so is this a good or bad thing? It doesn't have cats btw.

      It used to be a turf in closed loop, now it seems fine. I really need to pull codes on it.

      320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

      DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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      • #4
        whats the tp check in at?
        Ring and pinion specialist

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        • #5
          Originally posted by greenbullitt View Post
          whats the tp check in at?
          Don't have a volt meter on me. My dad has his but is working out of town.

          I took the tps off and twisted it with my finger and got the idle to change a bit and dialed in to where it is now.

          It will hang for 1 - 2 seconds then idle back down.

          Well see how it runs about to go drive it.

          320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

          DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

          Comment


          • #6
            some of the random test shit you do is hilarious, be like going to the doctor him sticking his finger in your ass and saying ah well feels like you might have a sore throat or something, don't really want to use the right equipment to test you out so I thought I'd give this a shot maybe.

            You've had to surely have read enough posts and been given enough sound advice to know a few things: general statements here

            1. you need a timing light to set timing generally.

            2. tps adjustments without a dvom is like playing darts in the dark, you might get the bullseye but chances are you wont.

            3. fuel pressure is checked with a gauge, haven't met a person yet that could accurately tell fuel pressure by how far it shoots from the test port.

            the list of that shit goes on forever.

            Oh yeah, the exhaust will always produce condensation. Simple science, warm air meeting cold air makes moisture.

            You tend to get too hung up on the little stuff that doesn't matter much and overlook the simple things it seems. If you're not loosing coolant, running hot, missing on startup after the cars sat a while, or the coolant doesn't smell like combustion; then more than likely you don't have a headgasket/cylinder head/ coolant leaking into combustion chamber problem.

            FYI- you can have coolant in the combustion chamber and not get the chocolate milk oil problem.

            The idle hang should be somewhat normal operation. I haven't been around an injected car yet(any make or model) that doesn't have idle hang in it's standard programming. The manufactures don't let them decel too quick.

            As far as Idle goes I would probably unplug the iac and set the idle speed @ 500rpm by the throttle screw, plug the iac back in and using a volt meter set the tps voltage at .98volts or so, some one can chime in on the voltage setting is I'm off on this.

            Remove the battery cable for 10 minutes to reset the KAM and see how it goes from there.

            Just my 2 pennies worth.
            Last edited by shumpertdavid; 12-01-2010, 08:54 PM.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by shumpertdavid View Post
              2. Tps adjustments without a dvom is like playing darts in the dart, .
              how do you play darts in the dart. I want one. I dont know how to play though so what are the rules?

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              • #8
                Yeah I know David.

                320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by 91coupemike View Post
                  yeah i know david.
                  it seems you like to work on your own and if thats the case kudos to you.
                  If interested, ive had a nightmare of a fox body ever since i bought it and i just dropped it off to a new shop (new to me not new to being around) and they will have it ready by friday. Should be really affordable and i like the guy. He seems to know mustangs and is ocd when it comes to his work. If interested i will let you know what kind of job he did and get you his number just let me know?

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                  • #10
                    just walk outside and shoot the fuckin thing
                    /thread

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                    • #11
                      wanna race?

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                      • #12
                        Working on your own stuff is very rewarding, that's how I got into this profession. I couldn't afford to pay to have stuff worked on as a kid so I learned and self taught myself a lot. Thankfully when I started doing auto repair, the guy above me was kind enough to help teach me a lot of the diagnostic end of things. It's truly a hands on thing. You can read all you want but you don't start learning until you grab the tools and get to work. That being said my advice to you is to invest in you're own Volt meter(even if it's a cheapy from Walmart), a basic timing light(doesn't have to be fancy either), and a compression gauge (again nothing spectacular), and a fuel pressure gauge. These tools will be with you for a long time and go a long way in basic testing and trouble shooting. It's amazing the amount of specialty tools that I've acquired no longer than I've been in this business. One thing I've learned is that a few basic diagnostic tools (like listed above) would have saved some of my do it yourselfer customers Hundreds of dollars before they finally broke down and brought the car in. As a parts guy you've had to have sold people a crank sensor then a cam sensor, maybe a coil, or fuel pump. It get's expensive fast changing parts on a guess or a whim.

                        If you'll take the time to check things, like the throttle body adjustment or the tps voltage, it'll help take a lot of guess work and redoing of things down the road. I know if you're in a pinch you do what you have to do to get by, but trust me try to do it right the first time. If you post a question with good info you're more likely to get more solid answers back. Just like when Greenbullitt asked what you set tps at. If you do all that and post your results it helps the people trying to help you. I try to give sound advice to people, but answers can be really vague when the info provided is vague to begin with.

                        All that being said you've always shown a lot of determination in trying to fix your problems as they come up. Try to form a systematic approach when tackling diagnostic repairs.

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                        • #13
                          fuck that, buy a carb .












































                          i happen to have one for sale

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                          • #14
                            At what ever point I'm able to get movin on my buick 6 build again I'll upgrade the holley 390 on it for a street avenger 570. I wish it was injected, but don't want to mess with all the wiring and such to get it that way.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by shumpertdavid View Post
                              At what ever point I'm able to get movin on my buick 6 build again I'll upgrade the holley 390 on it for a street avenger 570. I wish it was injected, but don't want to mess with all the wiring and such to get it that way.
                              i got a 670 for sale cheap!

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