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  • #31
    Doing an LS2 in a 69 Z here at the shop.

    Feel free to come by and see it. PM me for info..

    Also have a new GM pan FS

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    • #32
      I recently did a ton of research on this swap myself.

      - Headers - only 3 really good options on these IMO...1) BRP Hotrods (the nicest ones available new.... 2) Dynatech (nice as well, but collectors hang down really low...like 3" under the subframe)....3) Get a set of 4th gen headers and cut/reweld the passenger side collector to make it straight (cheapest option). Edelbrock used to make some really nice swap headers for 2nd gen cars, but they stopped making them and it's near impossible to find a used set now-a-days.

      - Brackets - Y-body (Vette) is the best option on these cars, but you can make the truck setup work. The truck setup puts the alt pulley way high, though. www.kwikperf.com has some nice setups as well. I have an extra Y-body setup complete with bolts and all I'll sell for $200 if he's interested....go price them first, last I saw they were running $400-$600.

      - Intake - don't forget how limited these cars are on clearance with a stock flat hood, and cowls look like dogshit on them. Truck intake will not clear the stock hood...I know this one for fact.

      - Harness - As mentioned above, not really bad to sit down and do your own with some patience and attention to detail. however if you want to just send it off there are good places like www.lsx-harness.com or http://brownspeed.com/wiring-solutions/

      - Cooling - F-body fans are about the best bet...cheap and plenty out there. You can also use the stock radiator but you'll need an upper hose off of an 82' Ford van (I think...you can find this info on the site below)

      www.nastyz28.com - Great place to get good info on this swap....several guys out there that have already done them and have detailed build threads. Better to learn from someone elses mistakes.

      - Motor mounts - I found that the cheap adapter plates off of Ebay work really well, but only if you get the 5/16" thick ones...the 3/8" are too thick and will knock off the geometry...with those you have to drill new holes and move your lowers out a little. You will also need to run 1" setback plates if you are going to run the TH350...in-order to keep it in it's stock location.
      70' Chevelle RagTop
      (Forever Under Construction)



      "Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.”- Thomas A Edison

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      • #33
        Good info, thank you. His car already has a steel cowl hood on it and a big alum radiator with fans, so hopefully they will work.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Jimbo View Post
          Yeah I do feel pretty good about it. I'm glad you have the funds to date supermodels and make dumbass analogies, some people don't, caps lock warrior.
          you really are an idiot...
          glad you think i have money and date skinny hoes.
          because i am a broke white man trying to make it in a black mans world married to a fat women.
          thank you very much
          Originally posted by Rreemo View Post
          I recently did a ton of research on this swap myself.
          man you really did do your research,the Dynatech headers is a very true statement.
          BRP headers is nothing more than a headman header,they fit tight against the floor board and between the frame on a 71 firebird that i did.
          o2 sensors had to be installed at an angle to fit between the floor and the subframe.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by "MrEd" View Post
            you really are an idiot...
            glad you think i have money and date skinny hoes.
            because i am a broke white man trying to make it in a black mans world married to a fat women.
            thank you very much
            You are a rude mother fucker. You said there is no reason to choose the 5.3 over a 6.0. I said cost was a reason, yet now you are a budget oriented person?

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            • #36
              lol....
              i cant help it that i found a complete 2006 43k miles 6.0 with wiring harness with a 4l80 and converter for $1000.
              i mean its not really all that uncommon.
              i never said buy a 5.3 instead of a 6.0, PERIOD.
              NEVER
              but yes i did settle for the fat chick,that use to be skinny....

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              • #37
                Originally posted by "MrEd" View Post
                lol....
                i cant help it that i found a complete 2006 43k miles 6.0 with wiring harness with a 4l80 and converter for $1000.
                i mean its not really all that uncommon.
                i never said buy a 5.3 instead of a 6.0, PERIOD.
                NEVER
                but yes i did settle for the fat chick,that use to be skinny....
                Ok, if you can find a 6.0 for cheap then that is preferable to a 5.3, I agree. That would have been easier to decipher than the "asshole speak" you were originally using. That price on those parts is uncommon.

                Exactly what point were you trying to make, if it wasn't 6.0>5.3?
                Last edited by Jimbo; 08-31-2011, 09:59 AM.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by "MrEd" View Post
                  lol....
                  i cant help it that i found a complete 2006 43k miles 6.0 with wiring harness with a 4l80 and converter for $1000.
                  i mean its not really all that uncommon.
                  i never said buy a 5.3 instead of a 6.0, PERIOD.
                  NEVER
                  but yes i did settle for the fat chick,that use to be skinny....
                  So, I'm the one doing the LS swap that Jimbo mentioned. This motor has 67k miles with all the receipts maintenance/oil changes, wiring harness, computer, ALL the accessories(including a/c), the drive by wire pedal, he pulled everything out from the van, and a 6 month warranty....

                  Not to mention he allowed me to pay it out, $350 down, $850 total.
                  Last edited by Nick; 08-31-2011, 03:52 PM.
                  So this is where all the cool people are!?

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by "MrEd" View Post
                    man you really did do your research,the Dynatech headers is a very true statement.
                    BRP headers is nothing more than a headman header,they fit tight against the floor board and between the frame on a 71 firebird that i did.
                    o2 sensors had to be installed at an angle to fit between the floor and the subframe.
                    Yeah....I had everything bought for split bumper car that I was intending to do. Those Dynatechs are nice too...but man they were awfully low. True story on the Headmans too....mine even showed up in a box with Headman "Hedders" inked on it. I found out, though....apparently Headman makes those p/n specifically for BRP....I don't think there is any way to buy them direct, but you never know.

                    I've still got mine, planning to use all of that stuff in my Chevelle now...just hoping that they will work or be close enough that I can finagle them in there.
                    70' Chevelle RagTop
                    (Forever Under Construction)



                    "Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.”- Thomas A Edison

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                    • #40
                      Where is a good place to find a complete drivetrain/harness? I'd like to swap my 98 truck this winter to a 6.x/4l80 combo.

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                      • #41
                        What is the simplest way to mount a starter and a th350 to a 2008 5.7? I am running the computer, wiring harness, mass airflow, ect.... What obstacles am I looking at? Yes, I'm a newbie!
                        So this is where all the cool people are!?

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Nick View Post
                          What is the simplest way to mount a starter and a th350 to a 2008 5.7? I am running the computer, wiring harness, mass airflow, ect.... What obstacles am I looking at? Yes, I'm a newbie!
                          sheesh, i totally forgot to give you a call about the adapter.

                          with the adapter you just use the stock flexplate and the stock starter with the th350 converter and you bolt the th350 up to the ls block (sans a bolt or 2)

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
                            sheesh, i totally forgot to give you a call about the adapter.

                            with the adapter you just use the stock flexplate and the stock starter with the th350 converter and you bolt the th350 up to the ls block (sans a bolt or 2)
                            Ok, I have 1000 questions! Things like the fuel system, flashing the computer, adapting the harness... Are these necessary changes? Plz call me if and when you get a chance. Thanks!
                            So this is where all the cool people are!?

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