I have 4 spark advance tables, (High Octane, Low Octane, Idle In Drive, Idle in Park) they are all based on cylinder air mass in grams vs. rpm. I don't see an adder for MAP
Why not do what someone else mentioned and just use the strategy code for a manual trans?
Then the load vs rpm spark adder would work just fine.
Because a manual transmission car is never going to have a sudden load dropped on it out of nowhere by the transmission so it doesn't need to compensate for being in gear vs. neutral.
I see, well sorry man. Do you have an RPM adder for AC? Do you still have AC? You could tap into that and rig up a switch or relay. Or maybe not. Ha ha ha!
I see, well sorry man. Do you have an RPM adder for AC? Do you still have AC? You could tap into that and rig up a switch or relay. Or maybe not. Ha ha ha!
I do, but thankfully I am actually using that for A/C now (which is nice cause that a/c kicking on without the adjustments would kill the engine every time). Just trying to tweak and tweak so I can get this thing as close to factory driveablity as possible. Like I said, this is not a huge issue, the car doesn't die every time, but getting this car out of the driveway is a multi-point ordeal so shifting back and fourth can sometimes cause it dip a little too low rpm wise and then she dies.
If the car the ecm originally came out of had a power steering pump, then it would also have some sort of load based adder. That way when you crank on the wheel in the parking lot, the car would not stall due to the increase in load caused by the ps pump.
I think your tuner should be fired. I never had the issues you are having. Nothing in lanes old car now tommys, nor in mine. Both cars had 350/400s
motor + sudden load = temporary reduction in rpm
with no compensation for this you have to rely fully on the STIT's to catch and correct this issue
gm has the tables designed the way they do so that there is no disruption of rpm's during this transition
just because you've gotten away with it doesn't make it "right", if wiring up a relay to give the pcm better control is all it takes to utilize this functionality, then that is what i am going to do.
i am not looking for a quick fix, i am looking to make it right. if you have some info on a better way to wire it up, i'm all ears, otherwise hold the smart ass comments. thanks!
If the car the ecm originally came out of had a power steering pump, then it would also have some sort of load based adder. That way when you crank on the wheel in the parking lot, the car would not stall due to the increase in load caused by the ps pump.
there are some torque models, but even that isn't a perfect fix, the problem is you either sacrifice having it perfect in park/neutral or in drive. there is no power steering input to the pcm if that's what you are asking though.
In the Ford ECM there is a spark table labeled Max Brake tq. Many people will make this mirror the base spark table, but this is wrong. The Max brake tq table is used to allow more timing than the base spark table in the event of things that cause a sudden load like cranking the wheel in a parking lot and loading the engine at idle. It allows more timing to be input and thus creating more tq to compensate. Newer cars have power steering pressure switches that tell the ecm to do basically the same thing. If you are no longer utilizing this feature in your ecm then in theory you could use this function to add timing or rpm when the car is put in gear by activating a relay or a toggle switch to trick the ecm into thinking it's getting a demand for more timing. Like I said, this is for my Ford Mustang, but if the ecm in your car had a power steering pump then it had to have some sort of feature like a load based timing table other than the base spark table or a ps pressure switch that raised the idle or timing to compensate for the load of the ps pump at low engine rpm. I'm sure there are others in here that can perhaps elaborate more. Perhaps Paul can offer some input. He see,s to be more experienced than I am with tuning.
with no compensation for this you have to rely fully on the STIT's to catch and correct this issue
gm has the tables designed the way they do so that there is no disruption of rpm's during this transition
just because you've gotten away with it doesn't make it "right", if wiring up a relay to give the pcm better control is all it takes to utilize this functionality, then that is what i am going to do.
i am not looking for a quick fix, i am looking to make it right. if you have some info on a better way to wire it up, i'm all ears, otherwise hold the smart ass comments. thanks!
My point being is that your tuning abilities suck. Your IAC counts are obviously far off from where they need to be. I'm not
Gonna tune your car for you but it's tune related that doesnt need all the bullshit youre trying to pull with electronics. I'm a firm believer in The KISS principle. You're going far beyond that ability for sure.
My point being is that your tuning abilities suck. Your IAC counts are obviously far off from where they need to be. I'm not
Gonna tune your car for you but it's tune related that doesnt need all the bullshit youre trying to pull with electronics. I'm a firm believer in The KISS principle. You're going far beyond that ability for sure.
KISS = hack job/lazy in this case
i am sure every major car manufacturer has a range switch for no other reason then they can't get their iac counts in line maybe it's cause they'd like the car to anticipate, rather then react to, the load.
oh, but what do i know, do a search for transmission range switch ls1 and see how many conversion guys recommend keeping them for the th350/400/pg cars, i am sure all of them just can't get iac counts figured out either, you should go spread your vast amounts knowledge over there too (and throw in your bullshit insults as well).
im not asking you to tune my car for me either, before i bought hptuners i had it tuned and the car surged, bucked, died, ran rich then lean, etc, one week after i bought hptuners the car works perfect, speed density tune, with 1-2% across the board on a/f, etc.
there is only one lsx tuner i really trust around here and its not you, hell, i can only imagine what you'd charge for a tune, you wanted damn near the retail price + a deposit to borrow a couple of ls cam swap tools for 2 days.
quick favor for in the future, if you either don't know how to do what i am asking, or you cant keep your smart ass comments to yourself, just don't respond to my post. thanks!
In the Ford ECM there is a spark table labeled Max Brake tq. Many people will make this mirror the base spark table, but this is wrong. The Max brake tq table is used to allow more timing than the base spark table in the event of things that cause a sudden load like cranking the wheel in a parking lot and loading the engine at idle. It allows more timing to be input and thus creating more tq to compensate. Newer cars have power steering pressure switches that tell the ecm to do basically the same thing. If you are no longer utilizing this feature in your ecm then in theory you could use this function to add timing or rpm when the car is put in gear by activating a relay or a toggle switch to trick the ecm into thinking it's getting a demand for more timing. Like I said, this is for my Ford Mustang, but if the ecm in your car had a power steering pump then it had to have some sort of feature like a load based timing table other than the base spark table or a ps pressure switch that raised the idle or timing to compensate for the load of the ps pump at low engine rpm. I'm sure there are others in here that can perhaps elaborate more. Perhaps Paul can offer some input. He see,s to be more experienced than I am with tuning.
no ower steering pressure switch input on my pcm. now that i have the wiring figured out it's easier (and gives me access to a lot of idle tuning features) to just wire it up correctly. i was in my daily today and noted how nicely the car anticipates the additional load of the trans when i shift it into drive from park, thank God the engineers didn't KISS
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